1967 CJ5 pictures

Okay,
I need to make a decision on whether this Jeep is worth $3000 of my labor.
Odometer read 22,389 miles but I know that it has been around at least once.
The frame has one spot under the driver's side that has been repaired (1/4" plate welded onto the side) so I am assuming it was cracking there.
Other than that it looks pretty clean and not much rust at all.
There is evidence of leaky seals everywhere, at front hubs, drive shafts, and transmission.

 

Is it for sale for 3000.00 or is that what you have to put in to it ?

 

Looks like a decent CJ....I'd say it's worth $3K (assuming the frame is OK)

 

Do you own it now or just looking at it?................Is this not the same Jeep that had the oil pressure issue's?

 

Looks to be in pretty good shape for a 47 year old jeep!

 

Imagine yourself a week from now.

How will you be feeling if you didn't buy it?

Compare that to the worst case if you do buy it. Then decide.



Also, I'd like to know what's under the rocker panel and corner plates.

 

wonder why valve covers are on wrong side and upside down . yep you need to look at hat channels . otherwise body doesn't look bad . like PeteL said whats hiding under all that plating . I need to make a decision on whether this Jeep is worth $3000 of my labor . is that $20 a hour = 150 hours

 

I charge $25 an hour for restoration work I do on a part time basis. My thought was trading 100 hours of labor for the jeep and see if he takes it.
I'll pull the plating and take some pictures of the underside as well.
Really appreciate all the input.

 

We have a saying around here - 'asking us whether you should buy a Jeep is like a crack addict asking his crack-smoking buddies whether he should buy more crack.' You get the idea ...

That said, it looks pretty much like a $3000 Jeep in the pictures. A lot depends on what part of the country you are in. California and the Pac NW seem to be the highest. Here in Massachusetts, old cars are assumed to be rusty... and priced accordingly.

The bodies seem to always have rust. Water pools on the floors and rusts out the floor panels and hat channels. Floors and hat channels are usually considered minor rust issues. Up until the 70s, Jeep put blocks of wood in the hat channels at the bolt locations, to keep the bolts from crushing the channels. Floors are comparatively easy to repair - all flat panels and simple shapes. Body armor often hides rust, as mentioned.

The frames in these Jeeps are very flexible by design, and bend a lot when the wheels are stuffed. The springs are stiff - they have to be to control body roll because they are mounted so far inboard. Where the spring hangers attach are stress risers, and the spring hangers often pull off the frame, taking a chunk of frame with them. So frame cracks are not really extraordinary, and not necessarily a sign of abuse. Quality of repair varies.

The closed-knuckle front axles are known for leaking and, unless owned by an enthusiast, will need going through on a new-old Jeep. In fact, these Jeeps almost always leak. The Dana 18 transfer case can be particularly leaky, and making them leak-free has been covered extensively here.

hth!

 

Concur with Tim's assessment. It all depends on the condition of the tub. If its rust free for the most part, I wouldn't guess 3k is unreasonable. Looks like the cage is at least relatively well done and the rear bumper is nice. I don't like tube front bumpers but that's just me. A lot of it looks un-molested.

Still have the T86 transmission? If it actually has over 100k on it, I would guess it was replaced. Gears? 4.88's would be a big plus.

 

I dont know about any of you...but I am laughing at whoever put those valve covers on wrong R)R)R)

 

Yeah, I wish that was all that they have messed up but I got a feeling there is much more.
Hope to get those pictures this weekend. I have been working on a customer's FJ40 so the Jeep is sitting for now.

 

I am thinking I will pass on this Jeep.
The spare tire assembly is mounted solid to the bumper AND the tailgate with 4 bolts through the center portion of the tailgate.


When accelerating from the stop sign at the end of my street and making a right turn, I heard a loud snap or pop like noise as though something was binding on the turn.
The jeep wanders all over the road with excessive play in the steering. You have to stand on the brakes to get it to stop which could be just wear or adjustment. There are supports that extend up behind the doors missing so the door doesn't seal against the top.

Personally, I would rather be working on a J20 or even a J10 short bed for my personal jeep project.
I will still end up doing all this work since the owner wants a quote for full restoration.

 

Does this Jeep have a detroit or one of the lunchbox lockers in the rear axle? These will make a noise like that under acceleration an cornering.

Don

 

i love those mtr's

 

I'll check once it stops raining. atriot:atriot:atriot:

 

Okay here are some more pictures.
First we have the steering linkage:


Next the Front Axle:



And here is the Rear Axle (note: cover seems to have been recently removed):



I need to give this guy my answer by tomorrow so if I am passing up a gem in the rough please let me know.

 

Heck, we really like the CJs here. Sounds like you are not so keen on this Jeep after driving it.

Very frequently these Jeeps are really screwed up by previous owners who make many mods without understanding the issues. Front wheel caster is critical, and changes a lot with lift springs. The two-piece front tie rod is also a problem with lift and big tires. The original Ross steering leaves a lot to be desired when used with any lift and larger tires - the Saginaw steering conversion is one of the most popular upgrades for these Jeeps. However, I knew plenty of people in the day that used the Ros steering with oversized tires. If everything is in good condition, the steering can be acceptable.

Look at the changes for '72 though - these were essentially the modifications that owners were already making to their Jeeps - bigger power brakes, power steering, V8 engine. Extensive drivetrain changes for '72, and many more for '76.

The aftermarket steering stabilizer is likely an effort by the PO to fix problems with the steering that she/he does not understand or appreciate.

So, if you want a CJ, this looks like a solid base. I expect you will encounter some surprises after you work with this Jeep a while - both good and bad. Can't tell you if it's a bargain - it might be in California or Texas. I would offer less in Massachusetts.

 

For a point of comparison - I paid $3500 for my '75 V8 CJ-6 a few years ago. I had it shipped here from Tennessee. It was in nice, complete condition, but the owner could not sell it on eBay. The state charged me tax on $6000, because that's what they said the assessed value was.

So IMO $3K is pretty much fair-ish, not a smoking bargain. To me, sale price doesn't matter that much, because it's a one-time cost. The owner seems to have had a lot of trouble with it - which should be a chip for you. These Jeeps are maintenance hogs ... no doubt about that. I think it's just a characteristic of 4WD in the era.

 

For me the dilemma is that I can make this Jeep look and run like new again. The NADA guide shows the restored value in the $16k range but that is only if you can find a buyer for it.
I could easily end up with $8k invested to get it 100% so then I would need to be in the $10-12k sales price range to make anything on it.
So I have a risk factor involved.
There are two J-20s about 2 1/2 hours from me. One is a 1973 automatic for $3800 OBO and the other a 1978 standard for $5000 OBO that both appear to be in very good condition. The 78 would be my preference because of the standard transmission and the remnants of a winch (no cable seen) built into the front bumper.
I want a Jeep for elk hunting purposes and J-20 looks very solid.