Brake Light Switch

Well, I had another hydraulic brake light switch go out on my CJ. I've lost count of how many I've changed, it seems like they last 6 months or so. I've decided to throw in the towel & convert to a mechanical type switch.
The problem is, there's not much room to work with in this area...brake, clutch, exhaust, even the engine itself are all in close proximity. Ideas?
This is my 70 CJ5 with stock under the floor dual master cylinder.

 

Hi Doug - There's this reply in your 2017 thread on this same topic:
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/128348/#post-1376894

I went right to that part, 1948 Chev PU: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=444806&cc=1486745&pt=10474&jsn=466

 

Looks like Tim and I had similar thoughts.

Brake Light Switch | ECJ5

 

Many classic motorcycles (and antique cars) had a very simple pull mechanical switch with a long extension wire that could easily attach and anchor to remote locations, such as a pedal arm or push rod.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1716486575...Y/oGi2lxFkBGYQoYiXcBlh27Y=|tkp:Bk9SR5Ca3rebZQ

 

Yeah I guess thats how long I've been fighting this problem.

 

That's an interesting option that I haven't seen before.

 

Doug,
Why not just buy a NOS brake light switch on ebay?
There are plenty of made in USA units available.

 

There are a dozen different styles, this one happens to be the correct one for a CJ.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/166745640106?_skw=NOS+brake+light+switch&epid=76231218&itmmeta=01JKDSXQ6FG0ZNQ1QSZBGB527W&hash=item26d2d08caa:g:m98AAOSwT3BmNgZj&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx+KZ9MfhVJKmO/5ol3FynCtZEeiNBKMV0LE7nnYnZKnx5Ev36PkKD2J3DV+L9I/hFYRvO+rJN8x5T+Sd7vrAaYPXcAz8U4+8RdFcPMgz+aoo/BsUhpUKHWuhydSJE3YaWAAUxbOsyhC2zU1hmCNWewKH6XbdU1hOldzmKnFrqYV/INroFBB8wwK3EkTePuAbzOe2IkIqR0OFIM5b+j4ae5YNrkfNxv7BcVkY1GEjumXSQLWkVW67g4IZOIjSQUobfGjR+EK1AECUw2+E+qJ1S+f9GfWcmAXzC+VSn74OZJHck/9BzZqX12Q==|tkp:BFBMtPP2uZtl

 

I dunno...I've tried so many different switches already. I'm tired of having to check my brake lights every time I drive the Jeep.
Presumably the NOS switches would be good quality but they've also been sitting on a shelf for 50 years.

 

Here is what I did for my 3B


I had the same problem with multiple switches

 

I did the same as everybody else on my DJ-3A. Used the Chevy switch: https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-SLS40-Stoplight/dp/B000CPK38W attached to the access cover.

When you crawl under the jeep with the switch, there is really only one place it can go.





You can sort-of see it here. I made a short pigtail wire to go from the original location to the new switch:

 

Are the posts the right size for bullet connectors?

 

I was hoping to mount it somewhere other than in that removable cover. It is already a PITA to add brake fluid! But with the limited amount of room in that area, options are few.

 

My main issue with the backup light switch is not the switch failing, but the connector failing. I have this problem with my J10 - the lights have to work for inspection. Seems like every year I need to pull the floor cover and clean/reseat the connector. Connector looks fine - just think that connector design is poor. Suspect the main issue is the body and chassis motion eventually wiggling the connector off the posts.

 

Yes. I used standard bullet connectors.

 

I have thought of this, and it is possible. My wiring is original and pretty crusty. Eventually I'm going to have to rewire the whole thing.

 

I pulled the tail light pigtail back inside the tub along the fuel sender wire and used a trailer connector instead of the triple bullet connector thing. Now i can use a trailer extension to tow with the jeep tail lights or if the jeep lights get smashed I can use the magnetic towing lights. I did put a big ugly hole in the wheel house to drop the wires but I'm still glad I did it.
Wires are mostly out of the water and grime.

It'll eventually have a CHMSL and I also pulled a heavy 12v aux and trailer brakes to the 7 way on the bumper. (Popup camper has brakes and 7 way RV plug)
With the extension jeep and trailer lights all function when flat towed.

 

Its probably the switch I had mine stop working and ordered another then it started working again when I went to change it. I have the drop down pedals maybe the spare switch from my parts jeep 1984 cj7 can work on mine if it stops working again. I have a new harness so I know wiring is not the issue. Its always something.

 

I had to change my wiring harness ends to accept the bullet posts. The original “T” with the slide on terminals, wouldn’t work.