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Dana 25 Front Axle Overhaul

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by HellaSlow, Nov 27, 2024.

  1. Dec 13, 2024
    HellaSlow

    HellaSlow Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor

    Los Angeles, CA
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    Ok thank you! I'll have to remove them anyway to add blue loctite so I guess I'll be setting them to 50 when they go back in. It would seem that everybody with a service manual would have been setting them to 80 lbs for the last 60 years haha. So I'd assume it's not the end of the world they were set to 80 over night. Chances are they'd been at either 50 or 80 over and over depending on what info the previous owners had.

    I was able to find this on another Willys forum. It's the only post I could fins on the topic with a straight answer anywhere:

    Screenshot 2024-12-12 at 3.14.19 PM.JPG
    Sounds awesome! I think I might actually be able to make it! Won't be able to bring the Jeep for obvious reasons but it'll be fun to come check it out! :beer:
     
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  2. Dec 13, 2024
    HellaSlow

    HellaSlow Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor

    Los Angeles, CA
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    Yep its the TIME that gets us! and all the random little things that pop up alone the way haha.

    I used a couple dremel bits but didn't have a dremel so I just chucked em in my power drill. One was a bronze wire wheel about 2 inches wide for the outer areas and then I followed with a 1" round green brillo pad looking wheel. This one really helped in the recessed areas where the bolts go. I've seen beautiful restorations where members have continued to polish with great results. I didn't want to go that far because there are already but gouges etc in my hubs and Nothing was gonna make em look "new" again haha. So I'm just embracing the history.
     
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  3. Dec 13, 2024
    mikvar

    mikvar Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor

    Frankenmuth, MI
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    Thanks. I got at it with the dremel, just some polishing pads but they weren’t aggressive enough. Will look for that green one.

    I’m thinking the same. Not going to be new looking with some gouges and such from years but better looking. Hey, they are 60 or so after all…
     
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  4. Dec 13, 2024
    jeepdaddy2000

    jeepdaddy2000 Active Member

    Eagle Point oregon
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    You don't need loc tite.
    I've R&R'd literally hundreds of bearing cap bolts on a multitude of diffs. I've never used Loc tite and have never had one back out.
    As for torque, I usually zip them down with my 1/2" gun till they are tight. A couple of rata tat tats after that and they are good. I've never torqued a cap and never had a cap/bolt failure.
    My point is not to overthink this. It's a lot like tightening lug nuts.
     
  5. Dec 13, 2024
    HellaSlow

    HellaSlow Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor

    Los Angeles, CA
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    Thanks! I still did loctite since the bolts on the D25 go through to the outside of the case. Wanted to make sure there was no seepage.
    Yes I tend to way overthink things hahaha.
     
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  6. Dec 13, 2024
    HellaSlow

    HellaSlow Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor

    Los Angeles, CA
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    Felt really good getting the diff cover back on today! :bananatool:With this, I can check off a huge portion of the to-do list!

    Now, It's time to tackle the knuckle studs! :D

    IMG_0676.jpg
     
  7. Dec 13, 2024
    jeepdaddy2000

    jeepdaddy2000 Active Member

    Eagle Point oregon
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    Be sure to rotate the vent 90 degrees, or better yet, attach a vent hose routed up into the frame.
     
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  8. Dec 13, 2024
    HellaSlow

    HellaSlow Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor

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    It has now been rotated. :beer:
     
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  9. Dec 14, 2024
    Militarymetal

    Militarymetal Member 2025 Sponsor

    Gainesville, Florida
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    From what I read, as long as the bolt didn’t strip or snap you’re good. I found a number of inconsistencies in the manual for torque. By the way, I really like that powder coating on your axle components. Really looks good. Can’t wait to see the entire Jeep!
     
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  10. Dec 14, 2024
    HellaSlow

    HellaSlow Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor

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    Actually the only parts that are powdercoated are the brake backing plates. Everything else is either painted with POR-15 or just sprayed with rustoleum.
     
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  11. Dec 14, 2024
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    Better yet, run that hose up near the top of the radiator and put a filter/breather cap on it. That D25 stock cover vent is 100% better than the drilled hole in the axle tube used on the rear but it will not prevent water from entering the housing if submerged.
    I made my own breather line terminals for my 3B.
    [​IMG]
     
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  12. Dec 14, 2024
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Yes, later Jeeps all mount the axle vent on hoses, up high in the body.

    Dorman sells an axle vent with a hose nipple.
    https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-89204-924-284.aspx

    Should not be expensive. Any parts store can get Dorman stuff. Summit has it for ca $5 if you can't get it locally.
     
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  13. Dec 14, 2024
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Better Better Yet put vent hoses on the transfer case & rear axle too :)
     
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  14. Dec 14, 2024
    Jw60

    Jw60 New Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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  15. Dec 16, 2024
    HellaSlow

    HellaSlow Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor

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    The knuckle stud conversion is DONE. (y) As discussed before, I omitted the 3-9 O'clock studs in lieu of not having to grind down the inner knuckle edge. Still gonna be much stronger than the bolts that were in there.

    I did notice a HUGE difference in casting variations between each knuckle/side. On the 10-2 O'clock studs on the right knuckle... It seemed like ALOT more material had to be taken away from the sides of the casing in order to even get the counterbore down far enough for the pilot tip to get into the threaded hole area. I had started with those ones so I nearly had a hard attack haha. I paused, checked other peoples posts and looked closer... and noticed the variations in their castings too and slowly backed away from my ledge and went back to work. :rofl:

    On the left knuckle, The sides of the casing were barely even touched by the counterbore bit.

    IMG_0689.jpg IMG_0691.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2024
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  16. Dec 16, 2024
    HellaSlow

    HellaSlow Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor

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    I'm REALLLY happy to be done with this part because now I can actually start putting things back together! :clap:

    If any other members are thinking about doing the knuckle conversion, I have the 5/8 counterbore bit I'm happy to lend out and most of a box of the hex bolts as well! Just shoot me a PM.
     
  17. Dec 16, 2024
    Dave Deyton

    Dave Deyton Active Member

    Fuquay-Varina, NC
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    Looks good. Got the parts to rebuild the front end on the 53 M38A1. Will upgrade the knuckles while I'm in there.


    Dave
     
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  18. Dec 16, 2024
    Militarymetal

    Militarymetal Member 2025 Sponsor

    Gainesville, Florida
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    Wow, you don’t waste time! You got right on it! Nice job.
     
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  19. Dec 16, 2024
    Tralehead

    Tralehead Member 2025 Sponsor

    Silverado, CA
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    And he drove all the way down to "The OC" for a silly little car show that had 4 Willys in it.
    Great meeting @HellaSlow (and girlfriend) in person. Lots of old Jeep talk...
     
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  20. Dec 18, 2024
    HellaSlow

    HellaSlow Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor

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    Got the knuckles installed today and the knuckle seals back on. Next step is to reinstall the axles but just wanted to ask about something first...

    The U-joints on the axles are in really good shape. There is no movement or grinding or noise and they seem very smooth when working the joints back and forth. I'll be using the closed knuckle lube from TorqueKing when reinstalling everything. I don't know what lube was in there before but it seemed to have done its job lubing.

    My question is.... should I be completely disassembling the u-joints to clean all the old lube out of the bearings before reinstalling them or should I just wipe off the excess/spray em with brake cleaner and slather them in the new lube and install em?

    If I don't need to risk losing one of the little needle bearings that would be great haha.
     
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