1963 Us Navy Dj-3a

I also added USB power port cause I could.

 

I'm considering that. For now, a double USB charger will live in the cigarette lighter port.

 

agreed, the switch panel I added to mine has them integrated. Too much "stuff" uses usb now to not have them.

 

Don't forget a power source for the glove box to charge a phone, flashlight, or camera.

 

There is no glove box!

 

In fact, it doesn't have a toolbox either. Apparently storage isn't a thing with DJ-3s.

 

I'ld have something for dust and rain resistant charging.

 

Im in the same boat... no globebox (blockoff plate put in place by the PO) and no toolbox... Ill likely bolt a 50 cal ammo can between the seats when I get to that point... water resistant, and fits the theme of the Jeep.....

 

Setting up the alternator exciter wire that passes through the charging idiot light. Resistor added so it will still charge if the light bulb burns out and a diode added to prevent feedback from powering the ignition:


I don't technically need either of these because the ignition switch seems to isolate the ignition when it's off and the Power Master alternator in the Jeep is really a single wire. The exciter wire is only there to run the idiot light and doesn't effect the function of the alternator. I figured I might as well do both of these so it will work properly if I need to throw a standard 10SI or different ignition switch on it for a repair some day.

Finishing up the connectors for the instrument cluster:


Instrument cluster installed and dome light wire ran.

Power applied for the first time:


Everything I can test without the engine running seems to be working with the exception of the turn signals/hazards. I've got LED tail and parking lights that don't draw enough current to activate the flashers. I've got some grounded LED capable flashers coming for that.

Now I have a HUGE cleanup job putting all this electrical stuff away. Then I need to re-install the seats, rebuild the carb, add fluids, change the tie/rod drag link, and it should finally be drivable again.

I'm clearly not making the Rubicon this year, but the plan is to have the rest of the stuff done for next year. (roll cage tie-ins, winch, recovery points, 30 spline rear axles, front locker, suspension work, skid plates, ...etc.)

 

IIRC, an electronic based flasher will work with LED’s without additional loading. It’s the thermal ones that need a certain load to work.

 

The harness had a wire for it, so I ordered a cheap tachometer. It showed up yesterday.


Other than that I spent all last night cleaning up the shop from the months-long wiring project. Still not done. I had two benches and a table covered with stuff. Hopefully, I'll have the shop more back to normal by the end of tonight.

 

Garage is mostly cleaned up, so I vacuumed all the drill shavings and insulation bits from stripping wires out of the Jeep and put the seats back in it:


Then I dug out the new tie rod/drag link so I can take care of that project next.

 

Getting closer to having this thing running again. One thing I wanted to address wast the trie-rod/drag link setup.

With the steering box centered in its travel, the Jeep is steered to the left 10-15 degrees. It turns real sharp to the left and no-where near the steering stop to the right:


It needs a longer drag link. To fix that, I ordered the Rugged Ridge heavy duty steering link kit for 72+ narrow track CJs. It's beefier with 7/8" threads on the ball joints and 1.25" tubing. Much stronger than the stock stuff:


Setting the toe:


Unfortunately, the drag link is still too short for this Jeep. It can be adjusted so the wheels are straight ahead when the box is centered, but there is 1/2" or less thread engagement with the tie-rod ends. It's good enough to drive around the yard, but I wouldn't trust it with any serious offroading. Rather then getting tubing with weld in bungs and having to trust my welds or buying expensive left and right taps, I ordered a 2" longer custom length pre-threaded link from Parts Mike. I'll swap it in when it shows up.

 

With the steering not being a total success, I moved on to the carburetor.

Disassembly:


Plenty of white fuzz inside.

Using my 20+ year old bucket of cleaner. I wish the main body would fit in here:


Things cleaned up well and all passageways are clear. Going back together:


That's about when I realized the Holley rebuild kit didn't come with the right generation of seals for the fuel transfer tube that goes between the float bowls, nor did it come with the gasket washers for the incoming fuel spigot. My old ones are bad and I need both of them. Parts ordered and the carb sits until the end of the week. Sigh.

I also dumped some gas in the tank and realized the fuel filler connector hose is leaking pretty severely. Ordered that too.

 

I thought there was a longer tie rod end that can be used on the drag link? Like using the double tie rod end just for the reach.

 

Since I'm waiting for carburetor parts, I figured I might as well tackle some more fun stuff to make this the Jeep I've been want in my head.

I don't want to spend $1000 on a top, but the top I have is pretty bad. The rear window was completely busted so I cut it out when the Jeep got home.

The rear side windows were completely opaque and looked terrible:


The plan is to make a full-length summer top out of it. I cut the side windows off last night and am liking the look:


I've got some piping to edge the cut for strength, but to sew it on, I need to get the top off.

I had my wife help with that. The front flap was good and stuck in the channel. Lots of silicon lube and some physical effort got it so slide out. There was a nice collection of dead wasps hiding up there:


Top off:


While the top is off getting sewn, I'm going to start with the blue paint. Rattle can, of course.

 

Probably?

Rather than try to find a longer one that has a Jeep taper and a 7/8" shank, it seemed easier to get a new tube. At least this way I only have two different tie-rod ends (left/right) instead of three.

 

I was planning on getting the center tube from Speedway. They have one that is for a slightly longer drag link available threaded for 11/16 tie rod ends, and then I’ll cut it down for what I need. IIRC, it’s for 25.5” center to center on the ball ends, so about an inch too long for our applications

 

I feel your pain on waiting for parts so you can finish a project, like you I try to order everything ahead so I don’t get delayed, but that doesn’t always happen.

 

Been following your project. Enjoying the progress and how you’re working through it. Nice work.

On the steering rods….I have the same D30 setup/kit only put on top of the knuckles. I ran into the same issue with the too-short drag link. Ended up ordering the D30 wide track version drag link separately. That worked perfectly. I was surprised on the quality. They are actually nice, beefy parts and fit the factory taper. The tres are definitely a strength upgrade but a tad smaller than the 1 tons tres people try and use…and so they so fit next to each other on the passenger side knuckle.