1963 Us Navy Dj-3a

I got it from the dreaded Kaiser Willys on a $40 off sale. It looks identical to the kit that Jeepsterman also sells. As long as the master cylinder isn't junk out of the box, I'm kind of fine with it. No matter what you do with these old Jeeps, some fab work is always involved.

 

Thanks!

 

Got the pedal and master cylinder all bolted in for hopefully the last time:


I mounted a common GM mechanical brake light switch to the brake access cover:


I also put some rivnuts in the floor for the cover. It was self-tappered in previously. Clear over patina olive drab for the finish:


You can kind-of see the switch above the master cylinder (with a short extension harness) in this picture. The brake lights come on when the pedal moves about 1/2". This should be much more reliable than a pressure actuated switch:


I decided to mount the proportioning valve in front of the master cylinder using one of the old steering box mounting holes. You'll need to crawl under the jeep to adjust it, but you only need to go though the adjusting process once and then you can ignore it. I'm also thinking about where to point the banjo fitings on the master cylinder. The front port will feed the rear brakes (via the proportioning valve) and the rear port will feed the front brakes.:


It was getting late and I didn't feel like starting the brake lines, so I decided to investigate the rear axle to see what I have. It's a tapered D44 housing with a full float kit:


Sadly, the outers indicate it's the fragile Herm the Overdrive Guy kit with the fusible link behind the 27 spline outers. Probably weaker than the standard tapered hubs:


....and the inners are 19 spline. So even though it's full float, it's not a great setup:


I've got a 30-spline open carrier, and a 30 splline Spartan ordered to put in it. I'm contacting Vintage Jeeper about his 30 spline spindles and some Moser FF axle shafts. That will make this axle a lot stronger.

 

Wish I was further along in my CJ-5 build. I’m gonna have some offset 30x30 Warn FF shafts for sale once I tear apart that axle for the gears, ARB, and rest of the FF kit for a centered axle. Already have a couple sets of centered Warn shafts.

 

Shoulda looked into the R&P kit. Drill 3’holes in frame and modify brake lines. Problem solved. I used it until I tore apart my ‘59-5 and loved it. Even mounted the reservoirs on the firewall. Wilwood master cylinder so no guessing on replacement parts.
And that is a Herm kit by the way.

 

Can you please link this kit? I used that Herm kit when I first built my Jeep. I remember it took me forever to get it working right. (Swapped for YJ pedals a few years later)

 

This is the one: https://www.kaiserwillys.com/products/dual-reservoir-master-cylinder-conversion-kit-fits-41-71-jeep/

It's not mentioned or pictured in the listing, but this proportioning valve and brake light switch block was included in my conversion kit for no extra cost: https://www.kaiserwillys.com/produc...-valve-kit-fits-66-71-cj-5-jeepster-commando/

I'm not using the proportioning valve block in my case because I already had a higher quality proportioning valve and wanted to go to a mechanical brake light switch.

 

I completely forgot R&P has kits. I remember seeing them in person at the Puyallup swap meet years ago and they looked great. That would have been a lot easier.

 

You have to call Richard at 503-557-8911 or 503-504-7011 or e-mail him at RandPCustom4x4@outlook.com

He doesn’t have a website. If you look for one you may not like what you find.
He is a one man show that also takes care of a homestead so be patient. I should see him tomorrow for our weekly old farts group for lunch.

 

Sorry for my dumb response. I didn't notice you were replying to Nick.

 

Richard has billet 30 spline spindles too!
I have them on my 5 and a set for the 6 on the shelf.

 

Nice! I need to call him then. Vintage Jeeper is out of them.

 

Put the rear axle back together for now and started in on the brake lines.

I picked up this flare tool a year ago. It seem to work great:


Not a lot of progress, but some. I've got the front line with residual valve done out to a new tee by the radiator, and The rear line to the proportioning valve:


My next task is installing the parking brake line-lock. It will end up in the floor riser next to the driver seat. Here it is with fittings installed:


It's got a really goofy shape where it needs to penetrate the floorboard. Here I am making a template:


Somehow I need to cut this in the floor:


That's tonight's project. Once it's mounted, I can run the rear brake lines.

 

Nicopp and a quality flaring tool are the schiznit. Haven't had a bad flare since.

 

Agreed. It's soooo nice to work with.

 

Yep!!!!

 

Since it has the two screws, Find a old axle dust cap and drill the shaft hole in it. Then cut a round hole and trim the cap down in height.

 

Well, I cut that goofy shape out of a chunk of metal:


But I didn't like the gaps it left:


So I made a two piece thing instead. Farmer style out of old tin, of course:


I like this better, no gaps:


Making a big enough hole to fit the valve through in the riser:


Installed and in the normal braking condition:


This is the parking brake engaged position:


Rear line ran with residual valve:


Access to the parking brake vavle is tight but workable. I still need to mount the Tee and run all the wheel lines:

 

Can that valve be locked in normal braking position to prevent accidental movement?

 

Yes, it has a sliding lock on the handle to hold it in either position.