Intermediate Frankenjeep Build

Wiring! Oy, what a pain in the rump.





And, once I had all of the air bled out of the hydraulic clutch, I found that the fork moved only about a half- inch. Grrrrrr..

I disassembled the hanging pedals and drilled a hole about an inch and a half lower on the arm to get more of a stroke. Then, of course, I had to move the mounting holes for the master cylinder. I also ordered - and have received - a larger MC; one with a one-inch bore vs. the 3/4” that I first installed. My calculations show that I’ll get about 2.5 times the volume delivered to the slave cylinder. There’s too much flex in the mount without the dash and steering column in place, so I can’t really test it yet.

The brake lines are bent and installed and the MC bench bled. I need an assistant or two to properly bleed the wheel cylinders.

I have to remind myself at times that “This is fun!”

Jon B.

 

Wiring can be a PITA. Was doing mine this morning as well. Glad I sprung for a while fuse box, so fewer splices to go bad. “Calibrating the master isn’t any fun either, and like you, I also need to attach the pedals to the dash…. And that looks like no fun either…..

 

I had a bit of “Catch 22” going on…

I don’t want to install the dash until most of the wiring is ready. I can’t do most of the wiring until the fenders and grille are on. I couldn’t fit the steering shaft without the dash OR with the fenders and grille in place. Hmmm…

OK. I guess the dash will be temporary for the steering shaft fitting and installation, so in it went. The steering column was bolted in place, tightly. Then I went about fitting and building the steering shaft.

First, I made this to connect to the GM rag joint:



Then, after getting the shaft length correct, I chucked the shaft in the lathe and turned the end to fit the half-inch hole in the ‘bow tie’ that I made:



Welded & painted:



Tomorrow, after the paint is dry, it can all go together. Then the dash can be removed and the wiring can continue.

Jon B.

 

I should add:

The ‘bow tie’ was drilled so that the steering shaft could be welded to it on both sides, rather than just a a butt weld. I’m not an engineer but I know for certain that I have a much stronger weld joint that way.

Having the shaft fail at 60mph would ruin my day - and my Jeep!

Jon B.

 

Steering shaft is in! I’ve sent an email to Borgeson about a u-joint on place of the rag joint. I don’t think that the life expectancy of the rag will be great, as it flexes quite a lot.

Also, I sat on a shop stool to check out the clutch pedal pressure. Initially, I could depress it fully with one hand. It now takes a whole lotta push with my leg! Things may need some modification.

Jon B.

 

Steering shaft topic again.

The post above had mention of the rag joint being rather stressed, so it’s going away. The brown truck brought this yesterday:



The shaft has to be fitted - again - then the Borgeson u-joint welded on. I feel much better about this.

Jon B.

 

It’s been long enough since I posted anything that this thread fell off Page 1!

The new Borgeson joint is welded to the shortened steering shaft. And, since I wanted to get serious about wiring:



Yup. Fenders, grille and radiator are in place. I have lights at all four corners; parking, stop/turn and hi/lo headlights. Cooling fan wired. Fuel pump relay & wiring is in. Backup lights wired - new LED lamps on the rear corners. The ECM is mounted on the inner fender and connected to the engine.



Jon B.

 

In order to have the original analog (mechanical) speedometer work AND send a speed signal to the ECM, I had to add some hardware: a cable extension of 6-7”, an 8k PPM (pulse per mile) sensor and an interface to change the pulse rate to 128k PPM that the ECU expects to receive.

A $200 kit…

Jon B.

 

ouch.....

 

Ouch, indeed. If it was just to make the cruise control operational, I’d have thought about it long and hard. However, I think it’s necessary for efficient operation of the EFI and ignition systems. Dakota Digital, in Sioux Falls, makes some cool stuff! I bought it all from Summit, as the price was a bit better, and they had free shipping.

Just when I think I’m about done pulling wires through the firewall, I realize there’s another thing to deal with. The cruise is four wires, the accelerator pedal has six. And then…

Jon B.

 

And then you realize the firewall pass through is too small, and you need to redo it…… BTDT

 

Well…
What I’ve been doing is just adding another hole & grommet. Crude? Yes! But I’m NOT undoing all of the existing wires to enlarge that hole. Nope. No way. I think I have three one-inch penetrations now, and am hoping that’s enough.

Jon B.

 

While waiting for some wiring components to arrive - or to make a trip to town for them - I decided to spend some time working on the floor.

The tub on the parts donor didn’t have the transmission hump parts, so I bought a set for an early CJ from @RATTYFLATTY . Of course, with an SM465 transmission and twin-stick Dana 20, the cover doesn’t fit. And, the steering column hole wasn’t needed. Nor were the holes for the clutch and brake pedals. And a bunch of other holes. I’m getting good at CAD work, like the rest of you.





Jon B.

 

those pics are gonna trigger my PTSD after what I was doing yesterday……

 

If in doubt, build in extra clearance around the transmission lid. You will be surprised how the torque in 1st gear twists the shift tower around.

 

The project is still underway! Yes, I know; six weeks since I last posted anything…

This morning, I had the wiring at about 95% done and all the gauges working, so I decided it was time to start the engine. And, it started immediately and ran as expected. Good oil pressure, alternator charging, etc. The temp gauge isn’t responding, so I may need a new one. I’ve no idea if it worked when in the ‘72, so it’s gonna get replaced. Well, its duty will be; the gauge is in the cluster, so that part stays. Fuel gauge appears to work.

I got a 40-second video but will have to get Son1 to put it on his ewe-toob channel.

Here’s a couple of pics to scratch that itch for you all:





And:



I couldn’t resist adding that.

Jon B.

 

I should mention this, I suppose.

Two observations regarding my Saginaw power steering box:

1. With the engine running, I was able to turn the wheels just by twisting the shaft with one hand! With the whole shaft in and the wheel on, it should be a two-finger steer.

2. After, that is, the leak in the pressure hose gets repaired. It’s a PTFE hose from Summit Racing, with AN-6 fittings. I must have installed one end incorrectly.

Jon B.

 

Congrats on the startup. That's always a big step forward when it comes together enough to do that.

 

Son1 got it on YouTube. Mrs. B. was pretty excited to see & hear it run!



The smoke is oil & paint burning off the exhaust.

Jon B.

 

Oooohhh! Lookie what FedEx brought to me this morning:



Smittybilt, since Bestop neither answered their phone nor responded to email. Their loss.

The steering shaft & column went in also, as well as the turn signal controller.



Then, I started the engine and turned the wheel, and…



You may recall that the pressure hose leaked. Assembly failure on my part. The inner piece of the fitting was cross-threaded into the outer.

Bummer. But, I have 4-ways and turn signals at all four corners!

Jon B.