1974 Cj5 New Project Jeep.

They work in your intro thread. Needs to come with a warning though, to first put on sunglasses...lol!

 

Ok I changed my album settings we will see if that works!

 

That worked. I can see the pictures now where I couldn't before.

 

The more I looked at the tub on my Jeep the more obvious spending most of it's life on the Rubicon and Fordyce had really beat the tub and frame up. All of it is repairable but the cost of the patch panels ect was going to be quite a bit. Occasionally God will smile on me and this time he did, I found a 70 tub and frame on marketplace for free the guy even through in the steering column and springs. There are differences I realize but the sheet metal I need will all interchange and the rest of the parts I will either give away or sell for cheap.
As mentioned I found a 401 for cheap and it is sitting on an engine stand waiting to be rebuilt, long story short I have been lurking on the AMC forums reading up on the AMC V8's. I also purchased a "How to rebuild your AMC V8" book and to be honest I am really starting to have second thoughts about using the 401. Oiling issues and cooling issues seem to be inherently problematic, there are many things you can do to mitigate these items but is it really worth it. I know this has been discussed to death on many forums including this one but I am thinking a 351W or a Mopar 360 is starting to look like a better option. The 401 is a direct bolt in and that is attractive but while the Jeep is apart it seems like a good time to change up to something less problematic, also AMC V8 parts are pricey. I found a Ford T19 with 5.11 gears locally so I could go 351W with the T19 and adapt it to the D20. I also found a NV3550 locally which would allow me to use the Mopar 360 and an adapted D300 (found a D300 locally). I know quite a few guys are going small block Chevy or LS and there is nothing wrong with that in fact 2 years ago I sold a 72 Vette which I did a LS3/Tremec swap in but I like different and SBC/LS are pretty common. Not sure what a 401 that needs rebult is worth but I would guess if I put and ad on CL for the 401 and the T18 (6.32) I would be able to cover the cost of going a different direction.
Really leaning towards the 351W since the T19 is stronger than the NV tranny and it will be a cleaner swap but how many CJ5's have a 360?

 

The 351W is a tall deck engine which makes it wide. Not a good swap candidate for a CJ.
Instead, I'd recommend a 302/5.0. If you need more displacement (unlikely in a 4wd) then 331 and 347 is possible from the same block.

If you're referring to 360 AMC (not Chrysler) then I understand the 360 is a straight swap for any 304 powered Jeep.

 

The Windsor is taller than the 302 but not that much. It's a fine fit for a CJ5. The Buick 350 in my '71 has a 0.6" taller deck height that a 351W and looks like it belongs there:


Plenty of room and the air cleaner is still a good 3 inches below the hood.

A 351W is cheaper and has much better rod angles than a 331 or 347 allowing the bores to last much longer.

The biggest downside to the small block Fords is the oil filter location that's right above the front pumpkin. A remote filter takes care of that if it interferes. You also need a rear sump pan and pickup from a truck.

 

I was thinking Chrysler 360. The NV3550 I found was removed from a Dodge PU so I just assumed it will bolt up to a Mopar 360 and according to Novak it seems all I need is a clocking ring to index the D300 for the CJ. My biggest concern would be overall length, I need to look into it more. I will also need to dimension out the 360 to see how well it will fit. Novak suggest Ford or Chevy SB for the 3550 so I don't see why a Mopar 360 would not work.

On the 302 I agree about stroking it, I did some reading on the Mustang and Ford truck forums and they seem to debate quite a bit over a stroked 302 vs a 351W. The stroked 302 seems to have the edge but my thinking is a stock 351W would be good enough since all I want the longer stroke. I think it was on the Bronco forums there was a list of Ford engines along with dimensions, I need to find it again.

I still have some research to do, at this point I am still a little bit away from needing to make a decision.

 

Found it:

Ford 221-351W
Dimensions: 24 inches wide, 29 inches long, and 27.5 inches tall
Weight: 460 pounds
Sump Location: Front
Starter Location: Left
NOTES: 351W height to carburetor pad in 23-3/4 inches. 289-302 height to top of pad is 20-3/4 inches. Length for all 221-351W Ford is with short serpentine water pump.

Chrysler 273-360
Dimensions: 24 inches wide, 29 inches long, and 27 inches tall
Weight: 550 pounds
Sump Location: Front
Starter Location: Left

 

Well I finally make a choice and after lurking around the Bronco forums and reading what those guys are up to I chose to go with the 5.0. The Ford Exploder 5.0 seems to be the hot ticket with those guys so I went ahead and purchased one for the CJ, it was removed from a 98 Exploder with 150,000+ miles. Seems like a lot of miles and I was thinking rebuild but the Bronco guys were all saying for those FI 5.0 engines 200k is nothing, just tear it down replace all the gaskets and you are good for another 100k at least. We will see what it looks like when I pull the heads. AA has a kit to adapt my T18 to the 5.0 which I ordered so it looks like we are going that direction. The guy I purchased the 5.0 from gave me the ecm, obd2 port, engine harness, transmission harness and in fact he threw in the entire front end harness with fuse box. He gave me the entire serpentine system with alternator and power steering pump along with the air intake box and plumbing. I sent the ecu out to Garry the efiguy in Colorado and he will tune out the pats and the auto trans. The engine is a little muddy in the pics but because of the non stop rain the guys house where I picked it up at is a mud pit, I have since cleaned it up.

As far as the 401 goes I made out pretty good. I listed it on market place for significantly more than I paid hoping for the best and sold it in 2 days full price to a kid who wants to put it in his Javelin.

When/if the rain finally stops and I can get to work on the CJ I will post more pics of the progress at that time.

 

I did similar. Bought a 2000 Exploder for the 5.0L and serpentine setup for my '60 Willys wagon. No progress yet but similar thinking.
I won't be using the Ford EFI stuff so let me know if you need something.

 

It seems like one thing right after another has kept me from getting to the Jeep. The rain finally stopped and I ended up with surgery on a torn bicep and rotator cuff which is no fun as well as a long recovery time. I did get my neighbors to help me move the Jeep chassis into the garage so I have been doing as much as I can without pushing the envelope too much, everyone I talk to says this type of surgery is not to be taken lightly so I am trying to behave. Anyway I did manage to get the cracks in the frame repaired and the frame and axles painted with black epoxy right before surgery so once they were in the garage I managed to get the axles back under the frame and started on the fuel tank and the drive train. I chose to install a cj7 tank with a side fill-I just didn't like the location of the original filler. Tight fit but with a little light massaging it fit in. As far as the fuel injection goes I ordered a tanks inc retrofit kit and it worked really well. Way cheaper than buying a brand new FI tank. I waited 2 months or better on a AA Ford SB to Jeep T18 adapter kit and finally AA gave me an October ship date-sort of/maybe. No way I am going to wait until October or later to get going on this so as much as I hated to I started looking for another Tranny (can I use that word in 2023? lol). I really hated giving up my 6:32 gearing but I figured there were other ways around it. I managed to score a 5:11 T19 for a song and ordered a Novak kit to adapt it to my D20. Lifting my arm much above the waist was a no no so I dropped a piece of plywood on the frame and made a low bench to work on to install the Novak kit. Here is where my question comes in. I currently have the D20 TC apart on my bench just cleaning it and replacing seals/gaskets and I noticed that there were grind marks on the inside of the case, almost as if someone had cleaned up some of the casting up to accept different gears?? Is there a way to identify aftermarket gears? The reason I asked is a friend of the PO told me that there was a terra low kit installed but the PO told me that was not true. I am thinking someone made changes the PO was unaware of? Anyway progress is slow but as I heal progress will pick up.

UPDATE: I might of answered my own question. I found some reference on the internet about putting Ford gears in a Jeep D20. Not to mention my gears do not even come close to the Jeep D20 gears.

 

Rather than keep editing the other [post I will just add a new post. Like most questions mine could be resolved via a little research and google. I went back out and inspected each gear closer and it looks like it has a Terra low gearset. I am assuming TL20E means terra low D20. That makes the 5:11 low gear a little easier to swallow.

 

This is what Tera Lo's look like in a D20.

 

Thank you-looks like what I have!

 

I guess there is something to be said for good clean living I was resting my shoulder yesterday sitting on the couch and cruising through Marketplace and bingo a hardtop for a ECJ5 pops up as just listed for $350. I was thinking it has to be $1350 right so I fired a PM to the seller and told him I would take it. He couldn't meet me until noon today so I made sure I was there at 11:30 waiting at his storage place. By now he realized he had priced it too low since he had 18 calls after me and he had to shut his phone off because it was blowing up. Super great guy sold it to me for $350 and I was on my way. It does need some fiberglass repair which would be expected but once upon a time I used to do boat fiberglass repair so from what I am seeing the repairs are a piece of cake. I figure I will pull the glass make the repairs and spray a fresh coat of black gelcoat on it and it will be like new.

 

The shoulder is healing up enough I can get out and work on the Jeep. Spent last week and this week tearing down the 5.0 replacing all the seals and gaskets, I debated on if I should just go all the way and rebuild it but the cylinder walls looked really good you could even still see the factory hone marks and zero ring ridge so I just did the timing chain, oil pump and all the seals and gaskets including valve seals. I installed the Novak kit in the T19 a couple of weeks before as well as changed the gaskets and inspected the D20 so after I put a coat of paint on the 5.0 I jumped in and set it all in the chassis. Sure looked like to me the engine set too far back but after walking circles around it for a day and wearing out a tape measure and a laser I decided it was right. I knew it had to be right since once you bolt the trans to the crossmember it pretty much locates the engine for you but before welding up the brackets I just wanted some assurance. It is moving along now and I can start tying up loose ends on the chassis. I spent quite a bit of time today deciding what to do with the Ford power steering but have pretty much decided to do the saginaw swap rather than use the Ford pump. The Ford guys are pretty high on this swap. I have to admit I am actually having fun putting this thing back together without all the pressure I usually put on myself with my car restorations. I always keep it in the back of my mind this jeep is going back out on the trails so perfection is not required-with that said I am still cleaning and painting everything but just not being anal about it. I am still trying to decide what I am going to do with the body. I was originally going to get it blasted but I am thinking I might just spot blast it here at home and then just seal it with epoxy primer and go from there, it gives me heartburn to paint something that hasn't been blasted though.