T86 To T14 Swap

This is a 2 man job. Need a watcher on the bore scope and another person to listen and follow instructions on screwdriver placement

 

After monkeying around a few times, I ended up just dropping the transmission and properly reseating the throw out fork. Got it back up and installed now.

 

Finally got back on this. Bottle opener for the return spring. But it's 0 out, so not sure if it needs a clutch adjustment or the oil is sludge. Is 1st gear a granny gear in a t14? I can shift 1 to 2 to 3. 3 down to 2, but it grinds going into 1. Think it's an adjustment issue?
Thick oil issue?

 

Considering it shifts fine from 2nd to 3rd and also from 3rd to 2nd my guess would be the first gear synchronizer may be worn. If it was the super thick cold gear lube it seems likely you would experience similar issues with the 2nd & 3rd shifts as well.
The T-14 1st gear would not be considered a granny gear.
The minimum air gap in a disengaged clutch assembly would be somewhere around 50 - 60 thousands between the clutch disc and the flywheel / clutch disc and pressure plate. It does indeed seem like it is a whole lot more with the overall motion of the clutch pedal but the pedal ratio and fork ratio are there to get mechanical advantage to overcome the pressure plate clamping force.

All that being said it can't hurt to try to adjust for a bit more release. Be aware if the adjustments makes the (diaphragm style) pressure plate go over center when the pedal is pressed in, and the throw out bearing should not be in constant contact with the pressure plate fingers when the pedal is at fully released.

Did you put new gear lube in it or are you running what it came with when you bought it?

 

Put new gl4 85 90 wt in.

 

You are good with that lube,although being that cold will surely increase the viscosity.
Try adjusting it for slightly more release. If it over centers it will reach a point where the the pedal effort suddenly become easier...kind of how a chain binder gets easier to when it passes over center.

 

My Jeep with the t14 does the same thing downshifting into first. (Before and after clutch replacement)

 

My T-14 doesn't grind into first at all, although I have not tried to do so at temps lower than about 35-40*F.
I don't drive mine in the winter.
Can you warm up the transmission with an electric heater?

 

Mine too on my 69. I know the syncho is worn but the rest of the transmission works so well I double clutch when going from 2nd to 1st (which isn't all that often) and keep driving it as is.

 

Per the FSM:
cross shaft lever and tube type (refer to fig 1.1). should difficulty in shifting the transmission be noted, check the length of the clutch release pedal rod (16 in fig I-1). measure the distance between the centerlines of the cotter key holes. the correct distance should be 10 1/4". if the length of the clutch release pedal rod is anything other than 10 1/4" the vehicle is equipped with the early type of Clutch Control Lever and Tube Assembly, which should be removed and the latest designed parts installed. free pedal clearance is adjusted by lengthening or shortening the clutch fork cable. to make this adjustment loosen the jam nut on the cable clevis and lengthen or shorten the cable to obtain 3/4" free travel at the pedal pad, then tighten the jam unit.

 

So what's the new style I should be switching to? The AA clutch conversion? I should be able to adjust part 16 in the pic until I get the 10.25" length, right? Then adjust cable accordingly

 

My t14 down shifts into first just fine in the cold.

 

T-14 is synchronized in all forward gears so they should all act the same assuming speed isn't overwhelming what the synchronizer assembly can do. Like said above, most likely 1st gear blocking ring and possibly synchronizer assembly is worn.

 

So my questions are:

1. should I adjust whats there, per the FSM, or replace with the most up to date version of the linkage per the FSM?

2. If I should replace it with the most up do date version would that be the AA chain system?

 

I'd adjust your existing stuff so you have the recommended 3/4" freeplay. You can figure out where to go from there if that doesn't work.

 

This.

 

Adjusted. It's 10.26 with a digital caliper, but the tape and eye-crometer say it's 10.25" exact. But I'm not able to futz with it anymore due to leaving on vacation in 5 minutes...gosh was it cold out there on the cement in 0 degree weather