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F134 Coolant Bypass Connection, Replace?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by danielbuck, Aug 14, 2022.

  1. Aug 14, 2022
    danielbuck

    danielbuck Uncle Buck

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    Pulled the F134 from my CJ5, replacing some parts including the waterpump (it was cruuusty). As I removed the hoses from the bypass connection on the front of the block, I'm thinking I should replace this fitting. Is this item threaded in? (pipe thread?). or is it pressed in?

    IMG-3836.jpg

    IMG-3837.jpg
     
  2. Aug 14, 2022
    Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

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    My F head had a fitting on top of that boss and it was pipe thread. So, I expect yours is threaded, but you are going to have fun with that.

    I suggest heating it with MAP torch and applying a good penetrating oil like Kroil before trying. That rotted pipe will crush and twist off if you try to force it out, and may do so anyway.
     
  3. Aug 14, 2022
    danielbuck

    danielbuck Uncle Buck

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    I do have pipe thread taps, if the threads do get boogered, or are just so corroded they aren't good anymore, I can open it up a bit larger with the tap. I'll give it a try with some heat and kroil, and also tap lightly on it with a brass hammer, love taps :D
     
  4. Aug 14, 2022
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Maybe use a plumber's internal type pipe wrench.

    In the end, you can probably cut and chip out the old pipe remnants, and a new one would still thread in.
     
  5. Aug 14, 2022
    danielbuck

    danielbuck Uncle Buck

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    ah, actually it came off fairly easy. Maybe the heat and tapping worked, or maybe it just wasn't in there as bad as I expected it to be.

    the threads look perfect :)
     
    Fireball and Twin2 like this.
  6. Aug 14, 2022
    3b a runnin

    3b a runnin Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    You should go buy a lottery ticket, because this is your lucky day!
     
  7. Aug 14, 2022
    danielbuck

    danielbuck Uncle Buck

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    makes up for having to drill out and re-tap the rear most exhaust manifold stud :rofl:. (which was the driving force behind removing the engine)
     
  8. Aug 14, 2022
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Obviously you have overlooked something...
     
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  9. Aug 14, 2022
    danielbuck

    danielbuck Uncle Buck

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    hu? :)

    Once I get the new water pump on and the engine back in the jeep with new hoses, I'm going to try some of the evaporust coolant treatment, see if that can put a stop to the rusting before filling it with fresh distilled water and coolant. Have never used that stuff before, but regular evaporust seems to work nicely on rusted parts.

    I washed out the block water ways as best I could with a garden hose, amazing how much crud came out. Some of it was the metal spring/wire that used to be inside the upper (?) radiator hose, alot of it was just rust and debris.
     
  10. Aug 14, 2022
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Just kidding.

    I believe modern anti-freeze has anti-corrosion ingredients. Does evapo-rust do something extra?
     
  11. Aug 14, 2022
    danielbuck

    danielbuck Uncle Buck

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    if it's anything like the regular evaporust, it removes the rust. Although maybe I'll just try filling it with distilled water and coolant now that I have washed out the passageways and remove a bunch of crud. Maybe removing all the rust might be bad :rofl:
     
  12. Aug 16, 2022
    danielbuck

    danielbuck Uncle Buck

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    While I'm at it, anyone know what this is? It looks to be some sort of check valve or something on the oil lines? Or is this vacuum lines?

    I'm contemplating replacing all of the oil lines, can this mess of fittings be replaced with a single hard line? If it's vacuum lines, I may just remove them, as I don't intend on using the vacuum wipers. Or is it needed for other functions (crank case pressure?)
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2022
  13. Aug 16, 2022
    danielbuck

    danielbuck Uncle Buck

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    photo would help :D It's the parts coming out of the valve train cover going into the T fitting.

    IMG-3845.jpg
     
  14. Aug 16, 2022
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

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    PCV valve.
     
  15. Aug 16, 2022
    danielbuck

    danielbuck Uncle Buck

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    I suppose I can just clean it out, is it a 1 way valve? if it flows in one direction and doesn't flow in the other direction, it's good?

    Most of what I find on this engine tells me it sat for a very long time, someone did just enough work to get it running and driving, and now it's mine. so I'm going through and replacing or at least cleaning out most anything I can :)
     
  16. Aug 16, 2022
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

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    Exactly! :)
     
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  17. Aug 17, 2022
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Slightly more complicated - action depends on the flow rate or relative vacuum, I believe, before it shuts.

    "It isn't always desirable to have these gases in the cylinders because they tend to be mostly air and can make the gas-air mixture in the cylinders a little too lean -- that is, too low on gasoline -- for effective combustion. So the blow-by gases should only be recycled when the car is traveling at slow speeds or idling. Fortunately, when the engine is idling the air pressure in the intake manifold is lower than the air pressure in the crankcase, and it's this lower pressure (which sometimes approaches pure vacuum) that sucks the blow-by gases through the PCV valve and back into the intake. When the engine speeds up, the air pressure in the intake manifold increases and the suction slows down, reducing the amount of blow-by gas recycled to the cylinders. This is good, because the blow-by gases aren't needed when the engine speeds up. In fact, when the car is up to speed, the pressure in the intake manifold can actually become higher than the pressure in the crankcase, potentially forcing the blow-by gases back into the crankcase. Since the whole point of positive crankcase ventilation is to keep these gases out of the crankcase, the PCV valve is designed to close off when this happens and block the backflow of gases."
     
  18. Aug 17, 2022
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

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    Whattttttt????????????
     
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  19. Aug 18, 2022
    danielbuck

    danielbuck Uncle Buck

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    cleaned out the PVC valve with brake cleaner, then put it and some of the other fittings in a hot water & degreaser bath in a small ultrasonic cleaner, seems like they turned out pretty good. I'll reuse all of the fittings and pcv valve.
     
  20. Aug 18, 2022
    danielbuck

    danielbuck Uncle Buck

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    So I'm planning on replacing the fuel pump. It's currently working, but it looks really old, and i figure while the engine is out this is my chance (I need to remove it anyway, to get access to some of the oil lines).

    My fuel pump is one that also has the vacuum lines going to the wipers and PCV system. I don't intend on running wipers, can I replace the fuel pump with a standard fuel pump that doesn't have vacuum pump on it, and just run the PCV valve just like it was before to the other side of the engine, but direct with no T fitting?

    I can't see any reason why this wouldn't work, but want to confirm before I do so :)
     
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