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Cam Change / Front Cover Issues

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by w3srl, May 23, 2022.

  1. May 23, 2022
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
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    4,275
    Not Jeep related, but definitely Buick related.

    I have a Buick 350 in my '71 Skylark and I'm wanting to do a cam change. The front cover is identical to that of a 225 or 231 V6. From all indications the front of this engine has never been apart, it has about 85k on the clock. I'm going with a mild TA-212 cam grind and a recurved HEI distributor along with a TA Stage 1 intake to give the old girl a little attitude. Already have 3.73 and a posi unit out back.

    Just how bad of a time am I likely to have with tearing this thing down? I am anticipating a sheared bolt or two, and I tried to order a new front cover from TA Performance but they are back-ordered big time. While it is apart I was planning to go with a new (stock) oil pump and possibly a boost plate/shim kit to get the oil pump tolerances back to .002-.003 and a new water pump will be going in as well. I'm quietly hoping it won't turn into a train wreck of a job.
     
  2. May 23, 2022
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
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    12,529
    Just as a heads up the 350 timing cover is different from a 225/231. The oiling passages are larger but they can interchange. One of the old school tricks on the V-6 was to use the V-8 timing cover and machine out the oil passages in the block and use the V-8 oil pickup.
    The potentially broken water pump and timing cover bolts are going to be the biggest issues. While coolant is drained a thermostat might be a good idea and check the housing for corrosion.
    Definitely change out water pump assuming it isn’t new. I’d bump up the the oil pump to the longer higher volume gears that come with spacer and variety of pressure relief springs.
     
  3. May 23, 2022
    timsresort

    timsresort Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    South Lake Tahoe CA
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  4. May 25, 2022
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
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    4,275
    Thanks Nick! I plan to change out the thermostat and housing and install a new water pump. As for the oil pump, I thought about going with the high-volume pump but I had concerns about wearing the distributor gear from the added strain from a hi-volume pump. I've heard lots of horror stories about worn/stripped distributor gears, but in the back of my mind I'm thinking there had to be other issues to cause that, such as not enough clearance in the oil pump that caused drag/wear. Factory spec is .002" - .003" clearance in the pump gears.
     
  5. May 25, 2022
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
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    12,529
    I’ve been running a Melling unit since 1989ish with no issues in my 231 and the 252 will get one also. I had a problem with an Edelbrock timing set but switched to Cloyes and haven’t had an issue since. The Edelbrock stretched rather quickly. They may be better now.
    I was very particular about the clearances and making sure everything was perfectly flat using very fine sandpaper, water, and a piece of glass.
     
    w3srl likes this.
  6. May 26, 2022
    jeepdaddy2000

    jeepdaddy2000 Active Member

    Eagle Point oregon
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2004
    Messages:
    1,143
    There is no added strain with a HV pump set at the same pressure as the stock unit. The bypass still opens at (around) 40PSI. The difference is at idle and below (lugging) the pump will push more oil (volume) than a stocker, keeping the pressure up.
    You don't get added strain until you begin to increase the bypass spring pressure, which ups the oil pressure, which adds strain on the dist drive.

    I've run a HV pump since the late 80's with no adverse effect.
     
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