Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Cj5dale, Mar 24, 2022.
Maybe you can salvage the bolts from the one I have if you are lucky.
If you can’t find bolts with the right grip length (the unthreaded shank), see if you have a general aviation airport nearby that has a parts store. The standard AN hardware is generally made in grip length increments of 1/16” with just the right amount of thread for a washer and locknut. For example, if you asked for a AN6-16 bolt it would be 3/8” diameter (the 6 in the AN6 is the diameter in 16ths) with a 1 inch non threaded shank portion . Standard AN hardware for most sizes has a 125,000 psi tensile strength, a bit better than grade 5. I think that would be fine for the application with any stock Jeep engine. If you need stronger, you would want a NAS bolt, they are 160,000 psi tensile, a touch above grade 8.
I finally got the e-brake drum removed.
It appears the drum is worn where the bolt heads are that allows them to spin. I’d like to take duffers suggestion of welding a small bead on the bolt head to keep it from spinning.
Here’s a pic of the part that goes through the drum that the driveshaft bolts onto.
even though it looks like there is a ridge worn into the metal, I can take my fingernail across it without feeling a ridge.
Do you think it will be ok to reuse?
I was also able to pull the damn seal after a frustrating bit of time using a $15 seal puller from the auto store
So here’s what I’m currently looking at
it’s a mess
I would take some 600 grit wet/dry sand paper and see if that will polish up. If it does, finish it with crocus cloth. If it doesn't, you either need to sleeve or replace it. If the latter, the only aftermarket version I would trust is BeBella's. Definitely not one of the non-fitting Kaiser Willys versions. The easy way to polish those is to use a D18 front output shaft for a manderl and chuck it in a lathe but drill press would also work. Otherwise, just put it in a vise and try to keep things even. There should be a few threads here on this topic.
Seal removal tip. Use a sheet metal screw a couple inches long. I like to use a self tapping one. screw it through the seal and grab it with a pair of vise grips and pull it out .
That output flange looks like it will clean up fine with a little 800 grit or fine crocus cloth. Be sure to add a little sealant on the actual splines on final reassembly. These are known to weep/leak gear oil past the splines.
Brake cleaner is a quick and easy way to clean up that typical oily mess.
Thanks for the suggestions on polishing the flange. I haven’t tried polishing it yet but I’ll take your all’s advice and give it a shot.
I did get the brake and backing plate off.
here’s what I saw. It’s a mess too…
Zoomed in on inspection plate
Cleaned off that tag. Not sure what it means though. Is that a part number?
looks like I need to replace the gasket around the inspection plate too. Also found oil leaking out of the bolts. The videos I’ve watched says I can put thread sealer on those.
Not so sure about that shaft though. It looks a little leaky too but I’m not sure if that’s just drainage from the inspection cover or not
Thanks for this tip. I wasn’t too impressed with the seal puller tool.
Some or all of that could be from the leaking rear seal that is getting flung up there from the brake drum. I think I would clean it up and see what happens after you get it back together and put a few miles on it. Just as easy to replace the cover gasket then if needed.
Good point. That will be easier to check when the seal is replaced and everything cleaned.
947384 is the Jeep Corp part number. The other is a Dana-Spicer internal number.
This looks typical to me. The Novak intermediate shafts include an o-ring at each end. I don't recall whether the factory shafts do; suspect they do not.
I recall these cases leak from everywhere that could possibly leak. Unlikely you will stop all the leaks without complete disassembly. Don't be disappointed if you seal up everything, put it together, and find someplace that still leaks.
I know it seems like they endlessly leak, but with a careful following of the Novak instructions, I have gotten 2 cases to not leak, even with hard use.
DeBella https://www.debellajeepparts.com sold me all the parts to replace ALL the components to rebuild as new, the shafts, gears etc of my D18. Buy everything from him. Great quality and a good business.
X2. I have been buying military parts from him for 35 years. He also has a lot of stuff not listed, like the NOS Ben Hur trailer tail light brackets I got from him. Never hurts to ask, I found out.
As soon as I get everything cleaned up, I’ll get your all’s input for what parts I need and give them a call. Thanks for the reference.
thanks for the info on the tag. And I agree about the leaking. This one seems to be seeping from a lot of places.
here’s a pic of the output shaft on my Tcase. While I was cleaning everything up, I notice this small divot (circled) in the housing where the oil seal goes. If you expand the pic you can see it much better.
Is that an issue? Do I need to replace this part?
I smear a thin coating of RTV in that area all the way around then install the seal. The RTV will fill that gouge. Make sure the seal bottoms out in the bore or it will hit the dust shield on the companion flange.
If you decide to use a repair sleeve I can give you the Timken number for the kit. I buy them from Rockauto normally. I keep a couple on the shelf at all times but I’ve done a LOT of them in the past.
Ready to order the gaskets and oil seal. Looks like debella’s seals and gaskets are quite a bit cheaper than Novak’s.
So, I’m planning on calling debella’s tomorrow to place an order.
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