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Push Rods For Dauntless 225 V6

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by BMoney, Jan 3, 2022.

  1. Jan 3, 2022
    BMoney

    BMoney Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    Orange County, CA
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    Last edited: Jan 3, 2022
  2. Jan 3, 2022
    dnb71R2

    dnb71R2 SuperDave 2023 Sponsor

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    That link shows push rods.
     
  3. Jan 3, 2022
    BMoney

    BMoney Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    Fixed, my fault, my brain is still foggy from the New Years Weekend. I meant push rods.
     
  4. Jan 3, 2022
    dnb71R2

    dnb71R2 SuperDave 2023 Sponsor

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    No problem...just didn't want anybody confused. (y)
    Can you compare the new with the old? The length will be the most critical with the interface on each end being equally important. If they are a bit thicker, then you probably have stronger parts.
    From the RockAuto listing, this is the correct part number. See post below.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2022
  5. Jan 3, 2022
    dnb71R2

    dnb71R2 SuperDave 2023 Sponsor

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  6. Jan 3, 2022
    BMoney

    BMoney Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    I will do so when I get home tonight, my main concern is if I measure from end to end will there be a noticeable difference in length of the original parts due to age and use?
     
  7. Jan 3, 2022
    dnb71R2

    dnb71R2 SuperDave 2023 Sponsor

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    I suppose there might be wear up to .050", so the old ones might be slightly shorter.
    If you hold a new push rod next to an old push rod, they should look like the same length.
    You will have to get the caliper out for precise comparison, but not necessary in my book.
    Unless somebody has 'hot-rodded' your engine with racing parts, stock parts will be the same across the board. Are you using a stock cam, stock lifters and stock rockers?
    If you are, then fine.
    If not, I will probably withdraw my comments. This is where racing completely changes the parameters of an engine overhaul.
     
  8. Jan 3, 2022
    BMoney

    BMoney Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    I am using the stock cam, lifters, rockers, etc. so all should be good.

    Essentially I had a crack in each head and I figured since I have the top of the engine opened up I might as put in new parts since I don't know what the PO did with the Jeep. As of right now here is the rebuild I am doing:

    New (Used) Lifters if necessary based on inspection (Purchased from a user on this forum)
    New Push Rods
    New (Used) Rockers and Arm Assembly if necessary based on inspection (Purchased from a user on this forum)
    New Timing Cover
    New Water Pump
    New Thermostat
    New Radiator
    New Ignition (DUI HEI Setup with Live Wires)
    New Spark Plugs
    New (Used) Cylinder Heads (Purchased from JW Auto Parts) that will have a valve job done on them and resurfacing if needed
    Rebuilt Rochester 2g Carb
    New Fuel Lines
    New Mechanical Fuel Pump
    New Timing Chain and Gears
    Rebuilt Oil Pump
    New gaskets all around for the above mentioned items

    Stock Intake Manifold & Valve Covers are being reused
     
    Rich M. likes this.
  9. Jan 3, 2022
    dnb71R2

    dnb71R2 SuperDave 2023 Sponsor

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    You have a good plan. I'm just throwing my opinion out as something to consider. I'm sure others will chime in.
    I used to do this type of work, but when it came time to overhaul my Dauntless engine, I took a short cut and bought a remanufactured unit from S&J engines in Spokane, WA.
    Your heads will get a thorough inspection with that overhaul, but what about the block?
    In my book, you might as well do the lower end while you're at it. Knowing you had a crack in each head, would cause me to raise an eyebrow with the rest of the engine.
    Inspect and replace crank & rod bearings, etc. Make sure you can get some kind of cleaning and inspection with your block also. You'll probably need oversize pistons.
    I know it's more cost, but now is the time while you refresh everything else.
    Make your good plan a great plan.
     
    Rich M. likes this.
  10. Jan 3, 2022
    BMoney

    BMoney Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    I agree with you. This is going to be my weekend trot around town vehicle and isn't going to see to much hard driving. My whole reason for buying this is because I grew up wrenching on my Grandfather's 1967 CJ5 with my dad and that is where I learned all of the skills I have mechanically. I have twin daughters that are going to be 5 in a couple of months. My dream is that when they get a little older a full rebuild of the engine is going to get done with their help and I can teach them the same skills that I learned from my dad. If I had the $$ I would pull the engine and just do it all but I figure for a fix just so I can drive it on the weekends for a few years and then rebuild the entire thing from the block up.
     
    truckee4x4 likes this.
  11. Jan 3, 2022
    dnb71R2

    dnb71R2 SuperDave 2023 Sponsor

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    Understood - keep the priorities straight!
    Wishing you the best with your young family. :)
     
  12. Jan 3, 2022
    3b a runnin

    3b a runnin Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Is the engine a 69 model? The older 225 oddfire used a different length pushrod. Changed about 64-65 or therabouts. Older ones are shorter IIRC. I found out the hard way. I found what I needed at TA Performance.
     
  13. Jan 3, 2022
    BMoney

    BMoney Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    I am assuming it is the original engine from 1969 but I honestly don't know. I would imagine I can look at the block casting number and figure it out correct?
     
  14. Jan 3, 2022
    3b a runnin

    3b a runnin Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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  15. Jan 4, 2022
    BMoney

    BMoney Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    So the lengths are identical in my opinion as you can see from the photo below:

    My concern is the ends as well as the shaft diameter. Here are some photos of the end comparison with the new push Rod on the bottom of the photos below.

    I did some measurements as well, here is the old Rod shaft diameter:

    Compared to the new one:

    As for the ball ends, here is a measurement of the old ends:

    And here are the new ends:

    Does anyone see any issue with installing these new push rods in my otherwise stock Dauntless V6?
     
  16. Jan 4, 2022
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

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    The diameter of the new pushrods will not make any difference, as long as the guide holes are large enough. Big Block Chevys could be had with any of 3 different diameter pushrods. The original Buick/Jeep pushrods are one-piece forged, and your replacements are tubular with pressed ends. Either are fine, as long as they are the same length. From your photo, I see nothing wrong with your original pushrods, and I prefer the forged style. The exception to this comment is I always use new pushods that oil through the pushrod because you can't effectively clean the sludge out of them. The Dauntless uses solid pushrods, so trapped sludge is not an issue, and the originals are very high quality.
    Where I do see a potential problem is using used lifters (from post #8) that didn't come from the same cam they were run on originally. Actually, once a cam has been broken in, the lifter must stay on the same lobe where it was originally installed. Mixing and matching lifters will usually cause much faster wear to both the cam lobes and the lifter. You might get several thousand miles before the lobes get wiped.
    I have tried "good" used lifters that still had a convex face on a fresh cam, but that cam didn't last long before performance went away, it ran for a while longer, but it got changed out for a matched set of new replacements.
    My final comment is make sure your new cam sprocket is all metal. The originals had nylon coated teeth where the coating would come off, making the chain too slack. Replace the cam chain tensioners if yours was equipped with them.
    -Donny
     
    45es and Fireball like this.
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