66 Cj5 Conundrum

HELP!!!

Ran into a snag with my son’s 66 CJ5. The issue is the starter on the 4.3 vortec swap ripped off the block because the previous owner who did the swap didn’t do everything right. So I’m trying to figure out what’s the best way forward. A more detailed explanation is below:

If I read it correctly, the T86 is supposed to mount up to the 4.3 using the factory bolt holes for the Buick Dauntless engine, but the flywheel is so far out that the teeth won’t engage. It looks like the original starter bolted to the Jeep 3-speed transmission but the vortec engine oil pan blocks the space. The previous owner ”fixed” that with homemade spacers that put the starter in at an angle, cockeyed enough to engage the starter so he could sell it. My 16-year old son was the sucker that bought it with my approval, and I didn’t catch it when I crawled underneath and looked at everything. It was fine for about a month before it ripped out of the block, ruining one of the block bolt holes in the process. We got a different small block Chevy starter (three holes) and with some oil pan trimming (but not far enough back to affect the gasket) and some machining of the starter mount)ng block, our mechanic got it to fit, and that’s when he discovered the reason why they had to cockeye the starter, because it won’t engage the flywheel.

So now I’m in a conundrum. Can we use a different flywheel and/or get a spacer? Should we swap in a better drivetrain, and if so, what transmission/transfer case to use for the vortec engine? Should we try to find a Dauntless engine and restore it? (Our least favorite option so far). We’ve even toyed with the idea of going 2WD (God forbid, but it wasn’t my idea) because my son isn’t much of an off-roader and just wanted the Jeep for the cool-factor anyway, and this will cost him less money.

I’m at a loss, and our mechanic isn’t a Jeep specialist but he’s good and willing to go whatever direction we decide. But not a single other mechanic within an hour drive would touch this because it isn’t simple swapping out whatever the diagnostic computer says is wrong. Please help with some constructive advice.

 

I am having trouble getting my mind around the starter issue, might help if you can upload some pictures and then someone on the forum may recognize what you really have.

I am not experienced with the 4.3 swap, but know a lot of folks have them in their Jeeps. Probably some build threads out there on it, so first thing I would do is use the search feature and see if anyone else has ran into the same thing.

Unless there are other flaws in the conversion, fixing what you have is probably going to cost a lot less in time, effort, and money than starting over with another conversion, but if you do end up deciding to go that route I have a Jeep Dauntless bell housing, a set of fender well headers, and some engine stands still in a CJ5 chassis that had a 225 in it. All of this stuff will work for a Buick V6 (225 "Dauntless" or 231 Buick), and SC isn't that far from East TN.

Finding a Dauntless (Buick 225) and rebuilding it will cost the most money, and to even it out you would need to find the heavy Jeep flywheel made for the Dauntless but later Buick 231 V6 engines are plentiful, can use a Buick flywheel, and you can usually find a good one relatively cheap, just needs to be one out of a rear wheel drive Buick.

 

The factory setup uses a spacer/adapter. You must have this adapter and a Chevy manual transmission bell housing to make this work. The original Jeep adapter is iron, as I recall. It connects from the GM bell housing to the T-86 or T-14 transmission case.

There are specific bell housings that will work. Novak has a guide here - The Novak Guide to the Chevrolet Small Block V6 Engine

Pictures of what you have now will be helpful.

 

Timgr is spot on, and don't be shocked by the prices on new Novak adaptors, as used ones can be found a lot cheaper, and you may already have what you need depending on how the conversion was done.

 

The starter bolts to the engine. The flywheel bolts to the engine. Doesn't matter if it's in a Chevy, Jeep, or whatever. You just need to find a starter to match your flywheel.

 

Most kits that use a flywheel spacer simply sandwich an auto trans flex plate between the crankshaft flange and the flywheel adapter to give the starter something to engage.

 

I'm having a little difficulty picturing this but it would appear a block mounted starter for the 168 tooth flywheel is trying to be used with the 153 tooth flywheel. The easiest solution to this, if it is indeed the issue, would be to purchase an aftermarket mini starter that has mounting holes for both positions and only use the in-line block holes. The minis are vastly superior anyway-most of them anyway. I didn't have much luck with the CSR unit I tried, but the McLeod's worked perfect with no shims.