Frame To Body Mount Locations

Hey guys. I’ve had my tub off for so long I straight up don’t remember where the body mounts to the tub. I searched here for “body mounting” and also read through the Frame and Body chapters of the FSM, but don’t see a clear answer.

Does anyone have a decent picture of a frame and body about to be mated that clearly shows where the two attach? Or better yet dimensions on a non-mutilated body from mount to mount?

did find this thread but no pics

Body Mount Location Question

Feel like this is where the holes line up on the RH floor support bracing, which I haven’t tacked in yet.


Sorry if this is a dumb question - I don’t have many of the mount locations to go off of:

 

The red circles are where the body mounts were on my Jeep. Although I am 99% sure the two directly below the number “8” were added by a prior owner and are not original mounting locations.

 

It looks like that tub had two more under the bed and two more on the outermost of the rear panel.

I don't remember the last two on my rusted out rear road sign of a tub but the 70's rear end i have has em.

 

I went around my non-rusty '69 on a creeper and took photos of all the mounts. A total of 3 bolts down the driver side frame rail, 4 bolts across the back of the body, 4 bolts down the passenger side frame rail, 2 pads without bolts at the cowl supports, and two pads without bolts on the cross frame in the front of the bed area.

Starting at the left front cowl support. This is pad from the factory with no bolt. Mine has broken off in this location. You can seek pictures of the intact pads further down:


Next is an outboard mount behind the pedals through the driver footwell. The pads are cut sections of tire sidewall from the factory:


Then there is one through the top of the frame rail where it kicks up behind the seats:


There are pads without bolts resting on the crossmember behind the floor kick-up:


Then there is a bolt inbaord of the frame rail where at the forward end of the diagonal brace behind the axle:


There are 4 bolts across the back. My left outer on is missing the pad and has a loose bolt hanging in the frame hole. You can see the brace that's spot welded to the inside of the tail-light panel:


Then there are two more mounts on the panel under the tailgate on either side of the cut-out for the towing mount:




And finally the forth rear bolt at the right end of the rear crossframe:


Working forward up the right side, a bolt at the front of the diagonal again:


The one on top the frame rail at the kick-up:


On the passenger side there is an additional outboard mount through the floor of the toolbox. I think the driver's side doesn't have this because of the gas tank:


Then the outboard mount through the passenger floorbaord:


And finally the pad with no bolt at the front end of the cowl support. This one is missing the rubber pad but all the metal is there:


The one on my '71 has the rubber pad in place, but is pretty distorted:

 

Fantastic thank you. So it looks like there’s no bolts through the holes in the rear floor riser that makes the aft wall of the toolbox? Those are the ones I can’t quite figure out.

I’m hoping to weld up the RH floor tomorrow and I’m reluctant to finalize the bracing without an accurate placement.

 

Shown here sitting cockeyd cause I haven’t cut the LH half of the old one out yet

 

There are bolts through those Thebolts go directly through the top of the frame rail. This is a picture of the left side one looking inside the frame rail. The bolt anging down to the right is the gas tank drain:

 

I don't have any pictures that show the holes, but will try and tell you what mine has. There are four across the rear cross member, I used those to line them all up. there are two mid Box, there are three in the floor of the tub, two in the front floor, where your feet go, one in the toolbox, none under the gas tank, but one on an angle on the frame going in the drivers side wheel well, it replaces the one that would be under the gas tank. There are two sliding supports under the Fire wall where the wood was in the tub. There is one under the grill. I hope this makes sense and helps, I used the silicone body mount kit with the round pucks to mount me body and made two studs to hold the ones under the fire wall that slide. Good luck Rick.

 

Thanks you guys. Due to the # of panels and supports I'm replacing on my body it's impossible to get measurements from it or tell how twisted it is...but luckily I have the opportunity to try and put it back together correctly so it will fit.

I am going to use the above info from everyone to build a jig out of wood off of the frame and then carry that over to the bottom of the tub on the rotisserie so I can line up all the mounting holes before I finish weld all the new panels in. I am working on a dimensioned drawing of the bottom of the body that I will post here later today.

Edit - Can you guys recommend a good bushing/pad kit? The ones at Kaiser Willys look like cheap chinese rubber not tire or conveyor belt. It is worth going with silicon over the rubber?

 

Question on the rear support riser - it mounts to the frame rails right @Fireball ? How does it achieve the same angle as the rear floor - is there some type of a wedge between it and the frame?


this is the only photo I have of it before tear down and I can’t tell:

 

The flange just bends up a little at that point. Nothing special just bent to match with Bertha the big ol wrench.

 

Thanks.

I’m guessing I may have an issue with my advance adapters Chain clutch:

 

Exactly, the flange is bent to match the angle of the frame.

 

Here's a better picture of the flange:


The flange where the seating area floorboards spot weld to the vertical wall behind the seats is bent up to match the angle of the frame. Note there's an additional layer of sheet metal providing bracing in this area.

 

Thanks Fireball. The Classic Ent. replacement rear floor support riser piece that I will be welding in has the extra small support metal spot welded to it's face so I will be good there.

@Fireball do you have the emergency brake drum installed on your rear propellor shaft? Eyeballing mine I'm not sure I won't have an issue at that location between it and the body floor panels as well.

My Jeep had a bunch of extra plates lowering the trans/transfer x-member about 2" and I'm wondering if this might be part of the reason why....although the engine tilt looks to be the correct ~4 degrees with the stock 2 1/4" plates that I put back in....

All this leaves me wondering if I will need to consider a body lift.

 

I have the stock pair of 1/4" plates:


And there is about an inch of clearance between the floor and the parking brake (hard to see in the picture, but plenty of room:

 

Alright guys - decision time. Should I go all the way here and cut out the LH floor (1/8 plate and box tube put in by a PO years and years ago) and the entire rear floor riser, or leave the LH floor and just fix the riser by cutting the new steel piece from Classic in half and splicing it in and then splicing in the part where the reinforcement is at the frame mount under the gas tank?



Half of me thinks that if I've come this far I should just do it right and cut it all out, and the other half that now knows how much of a pain in the butt it is to cut this stuff out and put it back in thinks of the six months of other things I still have to do on the Jeep and wants to just take the easy route and move on.

RH floor is tacked in place, going to finish the bracing today:

POs replaced LH floor and box tube:

Top pf floor under drivers feet shows some rust pocking but nothing structural (it's 1/8" plate after all)


What do the experts think? (oh and the rocker and bottom of vertical reinforcement will be replaced either way)

 

Also - here's the drawing I made with all the measurements on the frame-to-body mount points:


Measurements made from center to center of bolts in frame (holes where rear floor riser mont to frame, #4,#5 are ellipsoid and allow for +/- 0.75" of bolt travel):

• 1-2 = 32"
• 1-4 - 27" (+/- ~0.75")
• 3-5 = 9.5" (+/1 ~0.75")
• 3-4 = 31" (+/- 0.75")
• 1-3 = 36.25"
• 4-5 = 27"
• 2-11 = 78"
• 8-11 = 48.5"
• 1-8 = 78"
• 5-6 = 35"
• 2-4 = 39.5" (+/- 0.75")
• 1-5 = 39.5" (+/- 0.75")
• 5-11 = 42"
• 4-8 = 42"

Happy to adjust if anyone sees an error let me know.

 

That's a tough one. It looks like they did a decent job on it. The only reason to replace that is if you're looking for originality with hat channels.