Stock V6 Exhaust Install

I thought I would share a quick installation of the stock exhaust on my bone stock 1967 CJ5 with the oddfire. This jeep I am purposely leaving unmolested. I love to drive it, as it reminds me of my childhood, riding in a '66 V6 on our way to many adventures. My wife also drives this jeep, and with the stock 3 speed and 4.88's, its a spunky and easy to drive jeep. She's not big on lockers, big tires, truck 4 speeds, etc. So... last Labor day I decided to take Rusty out on a quick camping trip, and the decades-old dual exhaust didn't fare too well. Maybe it was the 30 miles of washboard. I flat towed about 60 miles to the trailhead.

A few hours later, at 9500 feet, wheeling up to a great spot on a warm night.

After a great weekend, running back out to the highway, things started getting loud, and the old exhaust had finally given it up. I did mange to bungee it before it fell completely off.

After talking to Sam at Partsdude4x4, this is the stock system he sells, as a Waldrons dealer.

 

I'm excited to see how this fits. I'm really considering a Waldron's exhaust for my '69 Dauntless.

 

Alright, time to remove the old system. It was a fairly common and well done routing, for its day. They left the connectors to the stock manifolds, cut them off, and went from there, back, under the frame to under-door mufflers, then back through the rear wheel wells to dual tailpipes. They had the pipes tucked in pretty good.

The under frame crossing was kept pretty tight.

I think this was the standard of the day, I had this setup in my other '67 for years, but started ripping mufflers off in the Rubicon. This jeep has not been there.

Sawzall time, and it was out in a few minutes.

The passenger side manifold studs look a little suspect, so they need to come out. The heat riser valve is still there, and is needed for the new system to fit correctly. But the studs won't move, so a little heat.

This led to a broken stud. If you are doing this on a Saturday, you should be at about this step on beer number 2.

I used a left handed drill set, drilled it out, re-tapped, cleaned the gasket surface, and now we are ready to install.

 

I am interested how it fits as well. My Waldron's exhaust for my CJ6 Dauntless fit perfectly.

 

This is the Y-pipe, and the one I was concerned about fitting.

Initially, I thought it was a little narrow, but that turned out to be because the heat riser valve had slid down the studs. With an extra hand, so it can be raised all at once, it went in like butter. For now, I am leaving everything finger tight.

Next is the long pipe to the rear. it passes under the crossmember then over the axle. Near the end of this pipe is where the first hanger goes up to the under-bed crossmember. Part of my original mount was still hanging there.

You can see here, it hangs pretty low, but not any lower than the crossmember, the reason none of these survived. I think they were trying to keep the PTO winch option open, so it had to go low.

 

Interesting. It's not really a copy of the factory setup except where it passes under the crossframe. Here's the factory setup from the manual:


The exhaust that's currently in my 69 follows this exactly. I'm considering replacing it bacause it's smashed where it passes under the crossframe and the pipe has a split at the passenger side manifold flange. I was hoping the Waldron would be closer to original. I think I might just replace the split part at the manifold and leave the rest of my exhaust alone.

Here's a side view:


Here's the smooshed part where the passenger side joints in:


And note the pasenger side dump of the original exhaust passes over the skid plate for protection:

 

Great thread! I'm picking up my Waldron's exhaust at Fastenal in Reno on Thursday and diving into the same thing. My Jeep came to me with a rusty perforated two-muffler exhaust system with each muffler dumping out under each side door., which was really annoying on slow trail crawls.

Really appreciate all the pics and info Tim!

 

The Walden exhaust I got crossed over under the engine and not at the skid plate. The clearance between the front drive shaft was a issue for me. I added a price at the passenger side manifold to give more clearance. Everything fit good just had a issue at the drive shaft.

 

Good photos of an original. I think this is pretty close, and I'm not trying to sell anyone on it. From what I can see, one difference is the contour of the drivers side pipe to the rear. I think my skid plate will bolt up and clear the cross pipe.

 

The muffler really only fits one way, if it's flipped it almost hits the diff.

The tailpipe fits well, and the stock hole in the frame lines up with the hanger. I decided to weld the hanger to the pipe rather than have a clamp there.

Went back through and tightened everything, had a small leak off the driver manifold, but it cleared up after some readjustment. Let it down and went outside to hear it run. Very healthy little rumble, but so much quieter than a side dump. I realize this may not be 100 percent originally perfect, but it's very close, and for a stock jeep, that is not going into the rocks, it bolts in very easily, and works for a reasonable price.

 

Hope it goes as well, less the broken stud.

 

It sure likes like it's a quality piece that is truly bolt-in. I do like the flange connections after the Y-pipe.

 

Do you have/use power steering with the Waldron Exhaust? If so I’d love to see how you routed your steering. I’m also consider a Waldron exhaust, but still want to have the power steering if possible..

 

I used the Waldron's kit on my 1971 model. It does not use the cross over muffler in the rear. It's 'straight' out the back on the driver side.
The tail pipe was not right and had to be cut and rewelded at a local exhaust shop. The included flanged gaskets for the manifolds needed a better fit. The included gaskets had a double conical interface. I needed a conical on one side and a reverse cone on the other side. I found those at NAPA.
Otherwise the system fit fine. I bought this about 10 years ago, so maybe they've improved it.
By the way, I have a 2.5"+ lift. This solves the exhaust pipe clearance issue and the front driveshaft to starter clearance issue.

 

Thanks for posting. I want to use one on my 71 as well. Do you have power steering? Any conflict with exhaust and steering shaft?

 

Yes, I have Saginaw PS. The box is mounted about 3” inboard of the drivers frame rail.
Here's my build thread.
Gem Of The Rockies ‘71 Rii Restomod | ECJ5 (earlycj5.com)

 

I don't have PS on this jeep, but I do on others. I don't see how the left pipe and steering shaft could occupy the same space without some goofy u-joints, or the box not mounted on the left frame rail.

 

Thanks, still trying to figure the steering out. Do you still have the same turning radios by going three inches inboard and shortening your drag link? I’m also using a d30 from a 78 CJ.

Great looking Jeep!

 

Yes, the turning radius is tight! I have a pitman arm that is roughly 6" long. I'm using a 3 turn box from a 1979 CJ5. I don't have the knuckle stops changed from the factory Dana 30 settings. My 33" tires touch the frame rails first so that's my 'bump stop'. I don't remember the numbers now, but I was so impressed when I measured the outer diameter of the Dana 30 turning circle was still inside the inner diameter of the Dana 27 axle.

 

That sounds fantastic! I’ll take a look at making a mount that moves the box in three inches, and see if I can get someone to make me a drive shaft.

thanks for your help!