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E-brake Cable Modification For Better Braking

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Chris'74, Mar 24, 2021.

  1. Apr 4, 2021
    Chris'74

    Chris'74 Member

    Charlotte, North...
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    Oct 27, 2019
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    Please let me know how yours turns out. I won't be able to do much for few months...recovering from a planned shoulder surgery. But i plan on doing the similar. I was going to cut 1/8 inch of the spring at a time and see what happens. That spring is only there to push the arm back and pedal up. but the center distribution spring should at least push the pedal back up. now now just have to push the arm back but still allow the arm to push back to neutral and release the Ebrake.
     
  2. Apr 5, 2021
    Dale Park

    Dale Park Member

    Utah
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    Feb 15, 2021
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    50
    I was able to finally get the e-brake bracket mounted to bottom of tub. I bolted it on and looks ok. My e-brake sets good and releases good, but I do notice that when I set the e-brake the springs on the cable are buckled about like what Chris showed above in his pic. I don't think that will cause any issue as long as they really do set and hold the jeep solid. I am not to the point where I can move it on the wheels yet, it is still on car dollies. But the e-brake feels good and releases good so far. Amen to not making things like they used to, but I have had to modify several things while putting this jeep back together. Still looking for an accelerator cable that works. The one I ordered and got is about 6" too short.
     
  3. Apr 8, 2021
    norms love machine

    norms love machine New Member

    Fernley Nevada
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    Nov 26, 2020
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    STOP TOUCHING ME....got my brakes all put together and looks the same the pictures as in the beginning of this thread , the spring on the e brake that I got is made of smaller diameter but still flexes and contacts the adjusting parts , I don't have the e brake assembled and all the slack out so that may change things , I'm just going to go with it for a while , I need and old drum with the center cut out or I might just machine out a piece of tubing to 11" stick that over the shoes and adjust this up properly and then can get a bird eyes view on what is going on.I was thinking of cutting the spring on the e brake cable but we probably want as much back pressure as possible to release the park brake . This is all short term any way I sill going disk brake , all of this is so funny how it goes , full float axle ?, bigger tires ?,lockers ?,on and on what happen to my plane old JEEP .
     
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  4. Apr 8, 2021
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2022 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
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    yes, that’s cool. do that.
     
  5. Apr 8, 2021
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Year, model, equipment Norm? You can put that in your signature file and it will appear with every post.

    The pros I worked with used a caliper to set the brakes.
    https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3377-Brake-Resetting-Gauge/dp/B0002SQUJ0/
    Maybe GearWrench now, used to be Lisle?

    Advantage here is it's fast. Set the linings, put it back together, do the backing-up routine and you are done. The parking brakes should not be a problem if you adjust the brakes properly at assembly. I did the brakes all the way around for my '75 and it was totally straightforward. I have one of these gauges, and used the existing cables.

    With the 11" tubing, it may not tell you anything since you lose the axle centering of the drum. It may be interesting to watch, but not diagnostic.
     
  6. Apr 8, 2021
    Chris'74

    Chris'74 Member

    Charlotte, North...
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    Oct 27, 2019
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    208
    Hey Tim. how do you use that caliper tool? Never seen one before. Does it just help to set the OD distance centerline of the two pads?. If so assume the TSM has that spec listed somewhere, haven't seen it referenced in the break section. They only list 3/8" on the thread star wheel. and/or lock the drum and back off ten or so turns. It's definitely worth a try like you said setting each drum to more or less 'exact' specs. But I still think these springs do something to stop the arm from moving enough to set a good strong holding break. And probably not all since it doesn't sound like a common problem. I bet just 20% of us get these new cables with a different spring length/diameter installed on the cable. So we suffer while the rest of the crowd gets a different spring applied to their cables that work flawlessly.
     
  7. Apr 8, 2021
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    There is no spec per se. You set the caliper to the drum ID with the pointed end. Then you adjust the shoes until the flat end is tight to the shoes but passes over them. Simple.

    I don't recall anything about 3/8", and that number will be wrong if you turn the drums. I'd also expect it to vary depending on the maker of the shoes.

    Most without the caliper would move the star wheel with a brake spoon until the drums are tight against the shoes. Then back off the shoes until the drum turns freely.
     
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  8. Apr 9, 2021
    norms love machine

    norms love machine New Member

    Fernley Nevada
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    Nov 26, 2020
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    I like your thinking, I was thinking about tacking a 1" strap across the tubing and have a center hole to line up with center hole of the axle and one bolt hole to hold it in place, as for the calipers you can measure things around radi and dia but wont give the same effect as how the shoes capture the drum. timgr projects with theses jeep or any old car restro we sure tend to over think things and reinvent the wheel but it sure is fun .:)
     
  9. Apr 27, 2021
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2022 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
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    Anyone have solution with these parking brake cables yet? I have this on my short list of fixes that need to get done to the CJ.

    Did you get your rolling?

    update?

    Update?
     
  10. Apr 27, 2021
    Dale Park

    Dale Park Member

    Utah
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    Feb 15, 2021
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    Sorry no update yet, still on dollies. I am probably 3-4 weeks out before it is on its own legs where I can test the E-Brake. But what I did check is my cables bunch just like Chris74 does, E-brake pedal feels firm/good when I set it and releases normally. I set the e-brake and the wheels are locked, release E-brake and wheels rotate freely. It feels right now that when it is rolling, I will be able to set the e-brake normally and release it normally. Just not sure of any long term affects having the cable bunching like it is.
     
  11. Apr 29, 2021
    Chris'74

    Chris'74 Member

    Charlotte, North...
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    Sorry... Not yet. No updates. I'm going to get back to the Jeep in about 3-months. Surgery / PT has me out of the game for a bit. Worse timing ever to have shoulder surgery. Just at the end of a 2yr resto and sooooooo close to the finish line! But hope to at least get a late summer ride in before the cold sets in again! Maybe someone here will be ahead of me and solve this!
     
  12. May 30, 2021
    Chris'74

    Chris'74 Member

    Charlotte, North...
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    Oct 27, 2019
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    Finally got back to working on the jeep. And pulled the rear brakes apart to try and figure out these E-Brakes. Few things. I went ahead and cut off 5 or 6 'rings' on the cable spring. After doing that there is now a good amount of movement with the brake arm. Before it was not moving at all because the cable spring covering would stop it. Arm moves maybe 3/4 of an inch "Inward" when ebrake pedal pushed. Not sure if that is good or bad, probably not enough yet. I have it adjusted so the pedal travels about 70% of its throw to the floor. With this the E-breaks just can't hold enough on a hill, my driveway. One other thing I noticed. When cycling the brakes without the drum on, the cross bar (not sure the real term for that flat bar that goes from shoe to shoe with a small spring on it) never gets tight, and the shoes didn't seem to move outward. I plan on researching more, and see what I find out. It may require more of the spring to be cut away to get even more movement from that e-brake arm. For now, I'll just leave it in gear or bring a block :)
     

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  13. May 30, 2021
    Lockman

    Lockman OK.....Now I Get It . 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    White City, NY 14617
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    Good Job. Are your rear shoes adjusted out , so they sound like their just contacting the drums when you spin the wheels ? Cut 2 more rings , on each side & when your pedal is 3/4 depressed , it should hold your Jeep on your Hill .
    I think your on the right track..... & very close to solving this.
     
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  14. May 30, 2021
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2022 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
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    I also made some progress. After getting a new front Cable and adjusting the nuts on the cables I did get the break to provide some friction. I need to do some more adjusting next week when I get back to Jeep work.
     
  15. May 31, 2021
    Chris'74

    Chris'74 Member

    Charlotte, North...
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    Yep shoes area all adjusted properly. I actually have great breaks. Stops very well at all four corners. Just can't engaged the E-Brake and get it to hold. I"m convinced that it has to do with these cables and the amount of spring wrap on them. Investigating things more, and when I get done with some other stuff I'll pull them apart again. If anyone else has any ideas I'm all ears.
     
  16. Jun 22, 2021
    Dale Park

    Dale Park Member

    Utah
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    Chris, not sure this will help but I was finally able to get my Jeep out of the garage and take a test drive. At first the E-Brake would not have held the jeep on the slightest incline, I put it back in garage and changed the routing of the e-brake cables where their hold downs are(normally crossed) and put them back on the cable holders on frame without being crossed. Hope that makes sense. I took it for another test drive and it was better but not their yet. Shoes are adjusted up to where they just scrape when rotating. I tightened up the e-brake adjuster cable just where it started pulling on the cables. Next test drive I used the e-brake to stop and it actually stopped the jeep very good with about 2-3 inches of pushing e-brake pedal. I tested it further by rolling along and pushing the e-brake down fairly firm and it did lock up both rear wheels. I think I am good to go. I did put it back on jack stands to verify brakes were not dragging with e-brake off and I only get the slight scraping noise when I rotate the wheels.
     
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  17. Jun 23, 2021
    Chris'74

    Chris'74 Member

    Charlotte, North...
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    Oct 27, 2019
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    This makes sense what you describe on how they cross, but curious what the thoughts are on why "uncrossing" them at the frame holder would change amount of force applied to the brake. For sure an easy enough fix to try. Also just curious on that 2-3" of travel at your pedal. Does your pedal start to interfere with the body tub 'rib' support (Not sure what to call that strip of metal coming into the pedal area) that is there? I get a bit of interference there. Will look to resolve that too. Thank you for coming back to this thread with your update. I hope not only helping me but someone else with the similar issues we have.
     
  18. Jun 23, 2021
    NC73CJ5

    NC73CJ5 Shade tree tinkerer

    North Carolina
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    Dec 18, 2020
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    This is timely. I just put discs on the front of my 73, and while I was at it I rebuilt the rear drums and installed new e-brake cables. It took me a while to adjust it, but I finally got them to hold, but the pedal was hard to push. About the 4th or 5th time, the e-brake pedal went to the floor. Inspection revealed the new Omix front cable has split and bent about mid-way. So I ordered a Crown to replace and try again. I hadn’t thought about the springs on the arms, that may be why the pedal was so hard to push, and the extra strain split the cable housing. I’ll check that when I get back into it.
     
  19. Jun 25, 2021
    Dale Park

    Dale Park Member

    Utah
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    If I push my e-brake pedal down about 3", it holds the jeep on a hill, if I squash it harder say about 5" that is when it will lock up the rear tires. My pedal is a good inch away from the side wall of the tub. I used the original ebrake bracket and mechanism, just sandblasted and cleaned it up, new cable, spring, and pad. So far it is working real good. Finally took it today and got the emissions done and it passed easily. Hood should be done(paint wise) early next week and I can finally get that put on and everything up front adjusted. New windshield glass going in first of next week also. It has been a fun project.
     
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