Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by timsresort, Dec 27, 2020.
Those look sharp.
Perhaps the most old school component of this Jeep is the PTO winch. Some hate them, I love them. The PTO that came off my dad's jeep was, let's say, "seasoned". Worn gears, worn chain, but hey, it didn't leak. I got a good candidate from a member on here, thanks Jay!
Started looking at them, and noticed a difference in the PN tag, PT1-J on mine, PT1-S on Jay's. They appear identical, so why?
Was thinking about searching for this answer, then remembered I have this really cool Ramsey dealer catalog, given to me by Art Archer, of Archer Bros Jeep parts years ago. So instead of an online search, this is a good old fashioned analog search.
Lots of great info in here. It shows mounting on CJ's, trucks, FC's etc, but they all have this exploded view for the PT1 series. Note the date-1959!
Upon further review, the suffix is J for Jeep, F for forward cab, T for truck, and S for Scout. I got a cornbinder! Anyway, it had to be just subtle differences in the shifter handle, so does not affect me. So, reassembled the PTO with the best parts from the 2 of them, and it's ready to install.
At year's end, I want to reflect... ah screw it. I had to take the PTO back apart because it needs to be clocked 10 degrees up to miss everything. You know I love doing everything twice. The PTO has 2 sets of holes between the case halves. One set puts it at 30* down, which hits the anti-wrap bar. The other set is at 15* down, which is too high and hits the tub. So I mocked it up in there with the bolts out and rotated to where it needs to be, and made a witness mark.
I took a look at the 3B, and it has it in the 15* location, but the difference is in the tub construction, which allows the higher mount. And what I need is about 20*, which is too close to the other holes, so we are going to make a project out of this. Since I need to not only drill the clearance holes in one half, and new tapped holes in the other half, I decided to use another case as a template to get this right, as the tolerance is tight. I stacked the 2 chain cases on each other for the clearance drilling.
Once that was done, I transferred the hole through to the drive case, and set up in the drill press.
Now tap time. Ran a 5/16-18 tap in by hand, don't want to get in a rush here. And I was thinking, man, I am glad I'm not paying someone shop rate for this (whole afternoon).
Bolted the case halves back together, and a quick dummy-up on the transfer case shows it's good. And good enough for today, Happy New Year's everyone!
Today I got the PTO and shaft installed, and connected to the winch. Installed the PTO shifter, which had to be bent a little with a torch to miss the seat bracket. This is the forward disengaged position, and it goes back to engage.
Since I had the torch out, I wanted to adjust the 4 speed cane away from the ignition switch while in 1st, so I mounted it in the vice and gave it some heat. The new position.
Getting closer to mounting the driver fender, I filled and bled the hydraulic clutch, and other loose ends on that side.
I will have to do a little inner fender trimming for the header, then this will be ready to go on the Jeep.
Earlier, I decided to remove and rathole the original tux tail lights, and just save them for posterity. God knows how they got this far with everything this jeep has been through. Today I received the reproduction Hall style tail lights from Walck's. I got 2 right hand since the license plate won't be under the left one, so it doesn't have the license light. I think they are good looking, with a nod at originality.
Left fender is on, all 4 tires mounted. Finally can see what it looks like. And, most importantly...it is now a roller for the first time in like a year. (Actually looked, this build started just over a year ago).
When the weather looks like this, (out the garage window), I have to get creative.
I think it's time for garage wheeling.
That's 2 feet off the floor, where I ran out of jack. Just want to see the flex, and where my clearance issues might be. The front tire was not close to lifting, and the shocks still had travel. I put some black tape where I might have to trim the rear.
I really would rather not have to trim the front, so this will be done with bump stops. And, the it really needs to go on a ramp to get the final answer here. But, for an initial flex, I'm pretty happy with it, and I can't wait to wheel it on real rocks.
Very cool. Love the rig...
Now that it's a roller, there is no reason I shouldn't be able to drive it on the trailer next week for the cage fabrication. Part of that is having brakes, so I finished up the last flex line to the rear end, poured some fluid into the master, bench bled the master, then started finding leaks. All manageable, and expected, with all new lines, flared by me. But after multiple rounds of bleeding I still can't get any pedal. Anyone ran into this on a completely new system? Anyhow, I decided to give it a break, and maybe tackle it again tomorrow, when I have help available to push the pedal. In the middle of it all, the rear drive shaft showed up.
This thing was a serious distraction from brakes, and is obviously part of driving it on the trailer. Yes, a little more than your average local driveline shop. But...no 2 (minimum) 70 mile RT to the shop, nice long travel spline, greaseable 1310 ujoints, and done with a few clicks, arrived in 5 days. I highly recommend Tom Woods.
Regarding brakes I've always had to pull the calipers, put a block of wood in and point the bleeders straight up. I've gotten straight fluid many times for several bleeds only to be amazed by how much air was still in the calipers after removing them.
I agree with Rich. I have had quite a lot of trouble with jeep brakes and adding in front and rear disk and power boosters. One of the things that made life a to easier are speed bleeders. I also had trouble with the caliper not being perfectly centered over the disk.
I also have a Woods driveshaft and its a very nicely made part. I made my own front shaft.
I will try that. I knew having the tires on was too good to be true. Thanks
I have a set of speed bleeders that I bought for another rig, couldn't find them yesterday. I am hoping with my wife in the drivers seat today we can work this out. I think, (we will see) there is no substitute for the 2-person method.
dont pump the pedal. one push on pedal open bleeder, close bleeder and release pedal. repeat as necessary. Ive found pumping first makes a big bubble into a zillion tiny ones.
Somehow I haven't been getting notifications for this thread for over a month now. This is heartbreaking to see what happened to your new engine, and makes me super nervous about eventually starting mine. Mine has been sitting for 9? months (edit: 1+ years!) now, so I'm definitely going to have some priming to do.
I'm super glad that I saw your post here, because when I looked at my rockers I referenced that part of the manual, but had no idea what I was really looking at. I was thinking that the "notch" should be where the cotter pin is, but was confused because there's a notch on both sides. I'm going to go back and double check before I start it. My valve covers were on backwards, so who knows what else may be wrong from the machine shop!
I'm impressed you're fitting 37's on your Jeep, most people say that 35's are too big on our early CJ5's. I keep debating between 33's and 35's, but I have bigger fish to fry before I tackle that decision.
Thanks for following. The engine issue is now behind me, and it was a learning experience. If I could turn the clock back... I would: 1. Not get in a hurry. 2. Prime that SOB, until I am sure. 3. Do it with the valve covers off so you can see oil. 4. Maybe have a second set of eyes on it when you fire it off. 5. The manual is good, I should read it more.
The nice thing about BFG's is they run small, so after you air down, they're really a 35. I first did 37's on my 3B because we have an in-house rule here: if you go up a size, you must actually go 2 sizes. So I went from 33's to 37's and have never regretted it. The Rubicon is a 37 kind of trail these days, IMO.
So, with a fresh head this morning, time to get the brakes bled. And yes, I have always done pedal down, pedal up. No pumping. So I warm up the garage, get my wife in there to pump, and like 4 pumps on the first 3 corners and we are good. The last, left front, will not bleed. A never-ending stream of air bubbles. I am looking at the (probably) reconditioned caliper, maybe the bleeder isn't seating. I gave up for today, because I have a lot of other stuff to do to get this on a trailer this week, while I have a weather window.
I stopped getting any sort of notifications months ago. Settings look fine and they aren't in my spam folder.
Separate names with a comma.