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This is what I modified slightly to work on my 3B:
Quicker Disconnect Sway Bar Links | 0"-2" Lift | Wrangler JK

I replaced the squared off pin with another of the tapered ones (1/2-20 thread). These have spherical bushings on the ends. Sort of pricey but I got the set I used from a friend who had sold his version of POS.

 

Nice set up, but since I really haven't noticed a difference with it disconnected I am just going to remove it.

 

I’m guessing you’re not planning to get this fancy but have you looked at the Currie anti rock setup? I think we’re going to change the wife’s tj to that. Had a spooky incident at the early cj tillamook run this summer where the suspension kind of unloaded and put the jeep nearly on two tires. I didn’t like the looks of that. I love the handling of the full sway bar but I think that off road control would be beneficial.

 

Way over my budget. I'm just going to leave it disconnected

 

Well if/when we do the Currie I could drop the jks quick connect links that are on it now in the the Mail to you if you want them.

 

You are going to really like the Currie set up, I have it on both the front and rear of my JKU.

 

I removed my front sway bar completely this weekend.

 

Plan to install the Savvy transfer case shifter cable today. Hoping it goes well.

 

Finished. It was a little challenging since I did not drop the skid plate. Seems to be much better shifting and hopefully I will not have the same problem with anything coming loose.

 

Anyone have any experience with these roll bar kits? I just want a little more protection with out replacing the entire thing. Any input would be great. I am hopefully getting some funds in March.
Bolt together:
https://truckandgear.com/smittybilt...0RoF7cGU5hYRKeI851N_AsBXT8jNlliIaAjj2EALw_wcB
Weld together, I do have a welder.
https://shop.poisonspyder.com/TJ-Trail-Cage-Kit-p/14-18-010.htm

 

Ask yourself one question, are you willing to bet your life on either of those in the event of a roll over?

Of the 2, the poison spider is the better kit because it is a weld in. I would never trust a bolt in cage.

 

I mean, technically, aren’t all cages bolt in?
I know it’s not ideal to have bolted connections at the high-stress points, but I’ve seen some cages with welds where bolted connections would have been a major improvement.

I’m in the school of thought that we're not building race cars where the cage will be depended on at 80 mph impact. The slow flops and rolls that we see can usually be supported by the windshield frame alone. The thin tubing windshield on a 2a saved my life once.

Show me a cage I’d feel safe in while barrel rolling down a mountainside, and it won’t look anything like a standard 6-point cage, welded or not. We’re mostly aiming for single use, life-saving protection in the event of an accident. To expect anything more will require input from mechanical engineers.

Just my $.02

 

Yes, in fact, I would, can, and have, a number of times, and they've worked just fine. Is a bolt together cage "Race Legal" No. But for the low-speed use that I want a cage in my CJ to offer protection in? A properly designed bolt-together cage, built from good material works just fine, and it's a damn sight better than not running any cage at all, just because you don't have the Time, Money, Tooling, or Skills to do a weld-together cage on your own, or Pay somebody else to do it.

 

Very good advice from this Group. I couldn't resist this: ' Don't do it like this ' . Pic .

 

I have a wild hair to lift my TJ and upgrading to at least 33's. I hope to be getting some "bonus" funds by years end. I don't want to go overboard so looking at the Rubicon Express 3.5". With the Rubicon will I still need a SYE kit, new driveshafts? The 3.5 kit I am thinking of comes with new brake lines. Adjustable or fixed upper control arms? The SYE kit from AA comes with drive shafts. Decisions, decisions.
https://rubiconexpress.com/Suspensi...M.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=38&t_pt=3533&t_pn=R/ERE7003M
https://www.adamsdriveshaftoffroad.com/advance-adapters-sye-kit/

 

32's now. I saw Posimoto at Deer Valley and he told me the 4:10 Rubicons are OK on 35's. I am leaning towards 35's but of course everything is more expensive! RE says you need 4.5" for 35's. Only $200 more for the 4.5"

 

I checked and even with the 4.5 it says max tire is a 33. I currently have 32x11.5x15 on non stock rims. I really don't want to do a body lift. More research is needed and I agree, why go to the expense and time for 33's

 

I think I'll pick Posimoto's brain a little on this. Most of the TJ's running 35's have 3" suspension and 1" body lift. Trying to stay away from body lifts