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Muzikp's Sometimes Driveable Build

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Muzikp, Aug 11, 2017.

  1. Aug 14, 2017
    jeepermc

    jeepermc Active Member

    Western WA
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    May 25, 2011
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    1,188
    Great thread. Keep up the good work!
     
  2. Aug 14, 2017
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2016
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    1,450
    Yes wheel spacers in the rear for sure to get them closer to matching. Ideally I'd find a full set of 4" or 4.5" back spaced rims I like and run 1" spacers on the rear. Should be pretty close to matching. I never see 4.5" back space rims tho so not sure. Will probably end up with 2" spacers on the rear.
     
  3. Aug 14, 2017
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Northern California
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    I thought it looked very similar to a jeep that was for sale up here in Cottonwood last year.
     
  4. Aug 14, 2017
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
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    The hanging pedal assembly works best if you buy the whole thing from a YJ or similar and install both at the same time. It gets weird to try and mount just the brake. It has been done many times though. Your results may vary. I doubt you will have to change your wheel cylinders, but you may have to install 10lb residual pressure fittings depending on how it works for you. In my case, I installed the wrangler master/power assembly and did no proportioning or residual pressure fittings and it works great.
     
  5. Aug 17, 2017
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
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    Sep 27, 2016
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    Thx Chris, was wondering which vehicle was best to get hanging pedals from. I'll get to that soon.
     
  6. Aug 17, 2017
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
    Joined:
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    Today I started by getting all the gunk and rust and general debauchery off the tunnel cover and spraying a coat of primer on it. I'll work on a cover for that later, but for now the primer will keep that tidy for a bit.

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    Then started making a cardboard template for a new sheet metal plate on the hacked up floor.

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    Then did a bunch more flappy wheel sanding on this side of the floor to clean up the funk. Somebody really did a number on the floor when they did the body lift.

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    I didn't have a big enough sheet to do a 1 piece floor panel so I had to scab on a small piece

    This is the back, and my friend Isaac's shoe. Isaac is a young friend from church who is working on his welding cert and has been doing the majority of welding on this thing.

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    And the front

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    Fits like this. I don't need the master cylinder access anymore since the master cylinder isn't going to be down there.

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    Then I had to get everything lined up and make a hole for the steering column to fit through. I cut a piece of wood the shape of the u-joint on the bottom of the steering column so I could roughly project where the hole in the plate needed to be by holding it up to the steering shaft.

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    Finished up the notch in the motor mount

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    And bolted it all together. There is a thick plate on the back of the tub. The hacked up tub is sandwiched between that thick plate and this thinner plate on top. The plate on the back of the tub is welded on but the plate on the top is only bolted on so I can get the transmission cover off if I need to. Everything is really solid and tight now. Unfortunately that's the best I could do to make the shape of the plate on the bottom of the steering column not so funky, it was very odd shape (yes more odd than that) when I started. There is a third bolt hidden behind the steering column.

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    Here's what I am hoping is really good news. The steering shaft fits in the notch and misses the manifold by about 1/4". It looks like it's touching in this pic but it's not.

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    Is 1/4" enough space between steering shaft and manifold? I hope so, I'm really excited I can fit a rear dump exhaust down inside the frame rails on both sides.
     
  7. Aug 17, 2017
    jeepermc

    jeepermc Active Member

    Western WA
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    1,188
    Should be. That's all I ever had on my V8 flatty. My motor didn't move much, so if yours moves more it could make contact, but mine was fine.
     
  8. Aug 18, 2017
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2016
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    1,450
    Thinking about a junk yard trip tomorrow to look for the smallest most compact brake booster I can find. Any vehicles come to mind I should look for?
     
  9. Aug 18, 2017
    73 cj5

    73 cj5 Not ready for the junkyard yet

    Clinton, Mississippi
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    Jan 10, 2014
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    2,137
    Been a few years since I messed with one but a sammy brake booster is pretty compact iirc. Would more than likely need a custom linkage. The booster on my YJ takes up a fair amount of space but if you're getting YJ hanging pedals go ahead and grab the whole shabang. Also take a gander at the XJ's.
     
  10. Aug 24, 2017
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2016
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    1,450
    Started working on the transmission tunnel cover today.

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    Tacked together

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    Starting to get it to fit

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    Needs a little side cover for the 4x shifter

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    It also got a bottom flat part on the back where the sides stick out but I didn't get a pic of that.

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    And then the most important part. Since driving this thing to work in traffic is a two handed affair...

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    I finally found a use for this body lift (y)

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    I hate jigsaws so sometimes I just drill things out

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    At this point it's a bit too nice for my Jeep. But I don't care as long as my coffee doesn't roll around on the floor in the morning. Need a center console next.
     
  11. Aug 24, 2017
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    7,540
    Way to put the Luthier shop to use! (y)
     
  12. Aug 24, 2017
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2016
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    :D Thx, it was nice to work in my wheel house for a change. All this metal work is very new to me, wood on the other hand...
     
  13. Aug 24, 2017
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2016
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    This looks like it has potential, potential for disaster.

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    73 cj5 likes this.
  14. Aug 24, 2017
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
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    Wow, love that transmission cover. I never finished mine. I just have a hole I can look at the street through. Adds to the overall experience:rofl::D(y)

    My 2A has a lot less hood height and when I put in my YJ booster/master/pedalassembly I had to be aware of where it was in relation to the hood and the valve cover. There wasn't a lot of room. I also had to cut the pedal arms to fit and additionally fabricate the tub floor to allow the proper swing of the pedals. It was not easy, but was worth it for sure. I also went with a hydraulic clutch because I had no working linkage and would have had to fabricate one with the SM420 anyway.

    Looks like you're going to need to modify the mounting brackets of the booster/master assembly. I had to modify mine to fit as well. There may be some bolt in ready ones that could fit your CJ5 with little to no modification from a late cj5/7 or YJ. The cowl on those may be a bit longer, so you would need to measure.

    I had trouble getting my OEM style brake light to work correctly. The addition of one on the brake arm was a welcome change. Looks great so far!
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  15. Aug 24, 2017
    Rozcoking23

    Rozcoking23 RUN & GET BIT! 2024 Sponsor

    Stockton, CA
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    I agree with 47v6, that is gonna take some work to make it fit. I used the swinging pedal and booster set up from a YJ. That still took modifications to the pedals to make work. I was able to clear the hood and headers and valve covers with no issues.
     
  16. Aug 24, 2017
    Desertdave66

    Desertdave66 Member

    Fl
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    Dang, I like that.
     
  17. Aug 24, 2017
    Rich M.

    Rich M. Shoe salesman 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Maryland
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    I'm fabbing swing pedals out of a Nissan frontier. Dirt cheap at the u pull and the masters are cheap and plentiful as well. The Nissan clutch slave is like $11 on rock. You have a ton of room compared to a flatty. The clutch arm is fine the brake will need reworked. In a flatty the booster fits where it fits and you have to work everything around its placement. Lots of cardboard templates. The Nissan booster is 8" I thought about smaller ones but the hot rod guys say they blow and are not worth it. Looking great !
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  18. Aug 24, 2017
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
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    Thanks for all the input guys. I'm looking forward to getting the booster/pedal installed. But first I need to tear out the heater, mine still has that. It's kinda sad to remove it, it has the ducting to the vents and everything. Once that is out of the way I'll stock up on cardboard and see what's what.
     
  19. Aug 31, 2017
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2016
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    1,450
    Heater is out

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    No way this pedal will work like this, you can see the line where I'm about to cut it

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    Yep

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    Started shaping up a heater delete plate. I notched it for that upper bolt but later decided to cut the bottom off and move it down so the notch looks a little funny now.

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    It was tough to make a nice clean sexy hole for the booster to fit thru, at least the hole is hidden behind the booster. Also got the 4 holes for the booster bolts drilled.

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    The firewall is not very wall like, it's about as thick as 1 ply toilet paper. I decided to try and firm everything up and eliminate as much flex as possible by making a backing plate on opposite side of firewall.

    4 out of the 5 bolts go thru the backing plate

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    Once that was done it was as simple as bolting in the booster with the pedal on the other side

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    Now the hard part.

    I need to make a new brake pedal shaft thing. So I mocked up what I think it's shape would be with thin steel. Here's what I came up with.

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    My thought is after I figure out how to fabricate it, it will be bolted and welded to the original pedal where I cut it off. I plan on adding plate on both sides of the old part of the pedal that hangs down so the bolts and welds go thru both. You can see the part I have to work with where the vice grips are. The picture makes it look like there isn't enough room to miss it when you push in the clutch but there is actually plenty of room and my foot doesn't even come close to it when I push the clutch. Now I gotta figure out how to make such a thing.

    Any thoughts or suggestions? Is this pedal arm not a good layout? What would you make it out of?
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2017
  20. Aug 31, 2017
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2002
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    2,361
    !/4" may not be enough. There's a lot of flex between the body and the frame in that area.
     
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