Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Focker, Jul 23, 2016.
Put new batteries in the 64 M38A1.
Built new hold downs for the 51R Honda batteries.
In true Binky style, I spent way too much time rebuilding the drain system for the acid from the battery trays even though I'm using AGM batteries so they're not needed.
Cleaned up, welded, and painted the trays.
Now to put the batteries in and mark where to weld the tabs bolt down the holders, then paint everything.
Almost ready for summer! (Tops off)
I decided that my center tunnel cover plate looked incomplete, so I made a cup holder. I started with a 1/4" plate of aluminum and drilled 2 3" holes in it.
I then cut a piece of aluminum rectangle stock for a base, and rounded the edges of the top plate and drilled holes for mounting.
A pair of plastic Dollar store cup holder inserts and four 1/4" stainless screws and it's all done.
It even fits my wife's favorite Tehava Tea.
Now if I can keep my 11 year old Grand son from using it for a step getting into the back seat.
Well I got the M20 torn down. I think the True Trac is OK enough. But the differential bearings are shot. 300K+ will do that. Flushed and cleaned, waiting on new Differential bearings.
need to install a new axle bearing
And try to clean and grease, and put silicone on for gaskets on the other axle. This is the Passenger side axle. It has survived while the driver side has destroyed it's self three times, every 3000 miles
These are the filings flushed from the differential bearings
Every 3 K ? What's wrong ? Is it the D44 rear w/ wrong ratio ?
Am I missing something? You say D44 rear in your Sig, but the axle in that picture looks like an AMC20 (or something else) to me. Unless there's a D44 out there with a round Diff cover that I'm just not aware of...
There is a back breaking, heat stroked, suburban blowing story around here...
It needs edited and put in the books.
Sorry for the confusion, there is currently a D44 W/3.73 gears in my Jeep. I lost another wheel bearing in my M20 on my last trip and bought a D44 to get it home.
To Keep the D44 I need 3.54 gears and a True trac limited slip. Gears $450 at SummitRacing and True Trac $550
To Fix the M20 $80 for all bearings, I have all seals on the shelf. So I'm going to try to put on another 3000 miles and see what happens. Also I want to go to the Bantam Jeep Festival.
I plan on getting the parts for the D44, but that will have to wait until late 2023 as the afore mentioned trip put $16K on my credit cards and everything I can spare is going to pay those off.
Ahh, ok, that makes more sense.
Finally installed the 2 hole Knuckle I bought from Daryl about a year ago. Steering actually feels better now. I made the change because it is supposed to be a stronger setup, but the little increase in lever arm makes a difference in how it feels.
Got to 60 Degrees today so I was able to finish up the Air / Fuel Meter install & the un-spaghetti job under the hood. It works as it should & it's gonna be a good tuning monitoring tool...... even if I don't know what the hell I'm doin'
That was a chore. Shackle hangars straightened up and rewelded. Tank float tuned up. Put in 7.5 gallons and adjusted to the low side of the 1/2 full line on the gauge for some fudge factor. Welded in an 1 1/4 receiver ( and despite my best attempts warped the crossmember. Torch straightening removed 90% of it. Ended up cutting some slots in the top/ long side, beveling out and rewelding, its perfect now after cooling) Fresh coat of shake n shoot. All new bushings in the back ( silent block the Rancho nylon were sloppy toast after 2 years) Now onto rebuilding the T18 shifter.
Nice work , Rich.
It's a Beazatch doing that work on your Back . I'm often very thankful for my 'Pit' . I just B & M about goin' up & down the ladder.
Oh Yeah....... Hope you did all that welding & torch work Before you put the 7.5 Gallons in
The soft YJ springs are great off-road but body roll on the street was ridiculous. I bought this Swaybar on eBay a year ago but never got to install it until today. WOW!! Big difference!! Took 80% of the body roll away!!
had to make a couple brackets for the mounts inboard of the frame.
I've never had Bump stops on my CJ5. Finally gett'n 'round toit, while I've got her sittin' on stands under the axles . Anyway, I think these should go here , on the fronts ? The TSM doesn't mention them, only the front windup control stop, about 7" above the carrier on the Trucks & Wagoneer's ?
I searched the Forum, but still need youse guy's advice on this . This is where I'm think'n.... The spring would contact just about an inch before full shock compression. What say you ??? ( It's a Crowne Part , about 4" tall )
Your array of tools looks like some of mine. I can't do anything without getting out every tool I own.
Hah! That pictures cropped for size, thats only the half if it...
I've followed you and seen that freakish body roll. Gonna fix that bent tie rod before CO?
Yea nothing like dealing with 100lbs of tank and fuel while on your back with 3/8" clearance to get it in.
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