MD Juan Tub Kit 1969 CJ5 4CLY (7/2016)

Help, please...

F134
New oil pump installed, primed with petroleum jelly, topped off engine oil, added remote oil pressure gage at sending unit port, new bypass filter (1050) element, cranked via starter more than a minute (two tries)... zero oil pressure.

Removed sensing tube from oil pressure gage, cranked engine, no oil flow out of gage sensing tube.

Any thoughts, anyone? Thanks.

The old oil pump relief valve would open with compressed air at <5psi, so I replaced the oil pump.

The engine has been run several times, once for 3 hours. It starts on the first revolution. We thought we were a few days from calling this "finished"... oh boy...

 

Thanks for the quick reply. We finished for the day and will take another look in a few days.

 

Jeep Monday, today.

I installed the speedometer cluster.

As reported earlier today the oil pressure remained low, so the oil pressure idiot light worked.

The ammeter light was on which (via Joe) reminded me to shift it's sensor wire over to the GEN terminal (and not the Field terminal). It went out properly once I moved it where it belonged.

And the fuel gage properly indicated a full tank. The engine was cold so we didn't get to immediately test the coolant temp gage.

The fuel level sender/sensor was easy to install. The fuel tank had (6) matching attachment holes, some offset but all with welded in nuts!! The J-box lid is gone, but I was left with 4 extra holes which we plugged with gas tank epoxy.

Next we installed the oil pump. We could get 5 psig by agressively rev'ing the engine, and Joe got 10 psi before we quit. But at normal idle speed, we get zero pressure.

Next we painted in our decals.



The side light reflector is not powered; it is reflecting a flash. 250603 is my CJ5's s/n.





The USN anchor logo is intended as a salute specifically to the "enlisted" guys. Elsewhere we salute the officer corps (USNA).

Experts will be quick to point out that the Navy jeeps carried fewer of the operating decals than we added here, that my equipment number has an extra digit, and that no CJ5's were assigned directly to USNA (at least not in 1969), but that doesn't matter to us. Our deviations from strict authenticity were choices we made to make our "Navy Tribute" vehicle a bit more recognizable.

Tomorrow I hope to put in a full day working on the seats.

And for reasons unknown, the rear turn signals just stopped working... #×@! €&%₩# gremlins.

 

You were correct in starting your hood number with a 94. It looks great. Hang in there. You'll get your oil pressure figured out.

 

Thanks for that validation.

 

thanks!

 

I just noticed on line that I could find zero examples of a 1969 both with side reflectors and the smaller front parking lamps. Mine has the smaller front parking lights, so I'm guessing I may have one more deviation from "authentic".

While I'm confessing my sins, I also admit again to using the older hood that was on the Jeep when I bought it. You can tell from the snorkle cut out and its insert (passenger's side). I understand these went away in 1965-66 or so. Before painting, the older hood seemed to fit better than the MDJ hood, so we went with the older hood. But after painting and final assembly, the old hood fit exactly like the MDJ hood, but we were too far down the road to back up.

It seems unlikely also, that civilian Jeeps were ever sold with bumperettes. I'm about to make a trip to AAA to process the PA antique plate registration and I'm reminded how much the bumperette shadows the plate mounting section of the rear bumper. Joe thinks I probably don't need to sweat that kind of thing for a vehicle unlikely to break 40 mph or a 10 mile drive ever again in its life..

EDIT: 'Just back from AAA... $453 to register for personalized ANTIQUE plates. But... no vehicle state inspection or emissions inspection required, ever. Authorized for travel to and from "events", only, plus occasional use (defined as once per week). No night (after dark) use ( I think unless lighting system meets current state vehicle lighting (inspection ?) requirements (...or some such wording I don't completely understand)).

State Farm ANTIQUE vehicle insurance limited to maximum use of 2000 mi/year.

 

Thanks, and we sure hope so on the oil ptessure...

 

My 70 Dispatcher has bumperettes from the factory. They do hide the plate a small amount but I don't think that will matter. You don't seem to be a bank robber or anything like that.

 

Thanks for the feedback on that. I hate it when Joe is right...

 

Great job, wish I had the time to get to mine

 

May I recommend retirement as soon as you can swing it!

This would have taken 4-5 years if we were not both retired. We were incredibly blessed to be able to concentrate this much time into this.

 

All I need is to build a tub lol

 

Has anyone ever removed the oil pump and fed a wire backwards through the oil suction passage into the oil pan to make sure that passage is clear? We thought to try something simple before dropping the oil pan.

Thanks.

Edit:

Or how about... used compressed air blown backwards through the oil suction line into the oil pan.

Or how about... drained the oil pan and left the drain open while flushing backwards through the oii suction line with oil then kerosene?

 

I keep thinking about the low oil pressure issue...

Monday we'll plug the feed to the oil filter first. A bypass filter should be getting only a fraction of the oil, so if I have a filter issue my pressure should build instantly. As mentioned earlier, I have the recommended filter element (with the flow restriction), but it is a place to start with the oil system.

I just find it hard to believe an engine with 125# compression on each of 4 cylinders is likely to, at the same time, have bearings worn badly enough to have zero oil pressure... something feels off about that.

Then we'll pull the oil pump and open the oil fill/dip stick tube and pressurize the pump suction port to purge it back into the oil pan strainer. If it isn't free flowing, we'll shove a braided wire through the suction hole in the block and then pressurize it again.

We should probably pressurize the discharge side too, but we'll pull the sensor and filter feed line first to provide a flow path to vent it. If we can figure out a way to do it, then we"ll close the vent and pressurize the gallery with oil, not air. Then we'll reinstall the pump and try it.

If that doesn't work, we'll pull the pan...

 

FWIT - there is an oil spray jet that screws into the front oil galley and provides oil between the cam gear and the crank gear. If this plug is left out during rebuild or broken off, you'll have zero oil pressure.

This is the only photo I could find of the spray jet, from Willysmjeep.com

 

Wow! That is especially helpful, and so easily checked! Thanks!

 

Jeep Monday.
We jumped right into the oil pressure issue by removing the oil pump and pressuring the suction port in the engine block. We heard bubbles. We think that is a good thing. To us it means an open passageway, a submerged strainer, and a solid connection between the strainer and the pump suction port. Hearing those bubbles also meant we wouldn't learn anything new by removing the oil pan. We remember from having the oil pan off last summer that the strainer was clean.

So, next we tried to pressurize the oil discharge gallery with air... nada, it wouldn't pressurize. We tried 5,10,15,20,25, and 30#. Nope... zero pressure.

That meant the next step was to pull the timing gear cover and look for the oil jet.



No jet = no pressure... thanks, Chuck... found it!

We decided to make one. They used to have a 0.070" spray orifice, now they have one 0.040". We didn't want to wait for one to show up on line, so we made one out of a bolt. We cut off the bolt head, sawed a slot for a straight blade screw driver, drilled a 0.125" (1/8") center hole, and then drilled our "jet" orifice.



We tried it by screwing it tight before we drilled the 0.040" orifice, to make sure the jet faced the right way.



We (I) blew right through the drill press stop so we had to tap and plug my center hole with a second smaller bolt (without covering the orifice). We only had one large bolt the right length with the correct thread so, despite my center hole drilling mistake, we had to make our only bolt work.

All in all, it turned out ok.

I wonder if this is at all necessary since the filter return line dumps into this chamber anyway. Why not just plug the jet's screwed attachment hole in the engine block, rely on the filter return for timing gear lubrication and be done with it? It feels a little as if the jet is a holdover from a time before the filter, ...but that is 100% speculation on my part.

Just for the record, we didn't do the engine rebuild. We did remove all the covers and we were impressed it was in such good shape. A crack was braised closed, the block's top surface had been milled (no s/n on block), we got 125# identical compression in 4 cylinders (74,000 mi), and a new looking timing gear all suggest to us this was recently rebuilt. We didn't remove the jet, ...we never had a jet.

The surprise is that the engine didn't blow up. I and others ran it to test drive it to buy it, and we ran it 4 hours to bake the engine paint. Oddly, despite a 0 psi oil reading, there was oil in the filter element. And after changing the oil pump, we could hear the change in the tone of the engine running as the oil circulated. We are either very, very lucky or this is one tough little engine.