Tail light socket removal

Unplug the two wires from the loom at rear loom. This pigtail is about 10 inches long. If they have been hard wired (soldered) then clip tail light wires and remove tail light assy for stud repair and clean-up.

 

Everything plugs together. Look under the body and unplug the assembly. The plug will pull through the hole in the body.

Whoa - don't cut it yet! The factory assembly does not come apart.

Why do you want to remove the socket? It looks fine to me. The socket is crimped to the housing, but you can replace the pigtail - but there is no reason to do that unless the housing is damaged or the wires are cut. Does it have continuity?

Realize that that style of light that is not smashed is a scarce and valuable thing. Think preservation first. The one you have there looks in excellent condition.

 

there is a 3 wire connector near rear of frame drivers side , these like to corrode and are imposable to remove the wires from . if your having problems with rear lights I would .remove this connector and solder and heat shrink all wires to rear lights

 

Those lights use a carriage bolt with the square shoulder staked over to hold it in the housing. You can likely get by either straightening what you have, or just using a carriage bolt without staking it.
-Donny

 

I would try to straighten it in place. Put a piece of steel behind the bend and tap on the bend to straighten. Then run a die over the stud to restore the threads.

 

The original staking of the mounting bolts not only holds it in place but provides a good electrical ground for the light assy. Just a heads up.

 

Bumping this old thread to see if anyone has a part source for these staked button head studs. I got my Hall 701s re-chromed and was hoping to transfer the studs from the reproduction tail lights to them but the studs are too small. If they’re not available I’ll use stainless carriage bolts.

 

Yes, this is an old thread! A year or so back, I was working on a tail light than needed a new stud. I found a close replacement at the hardware store, just a plain steel carriage bolt. The top of the head was a little rounder, but otherwise close.
To stake it in, I assembled it in the housing, then clamped a piece of 1”x 1” bar stock vertically in my big vice to use as a buck for the bolt head. I then used a deep well 1/4 drive socket over the threaded end to mash down the square portion to stake it. I don’t recall the size socket, but it was snug sliding over the threads. It worked great. The socket wasn’t damaged either.
I need to find out who you are using for your plater. It might be worth sending a box out to the other coast for chroming.
-Donny

 

Seriously, no laughing. Believe it or not, but a toilet bowl flange bolt works very well. The large flat bottom head is a perfect size and thickness. And the diameter of the stud matches the original!