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Help with sale value of my CJ6 project/basketcase

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by rcassettyjr, Feb 25, 2014.

  1. Feb 25, 2014
    rcassettyjr

    rcassettyjr Member

    Shallotte NC
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2010
    Messages:
    193
    I would appreciate some help in determining a reasonable value for what I have before I list it for sale (this is not a for sale ad and it is not for sale yet).

    I am going to have to give up on my 74 CJ6 project. Time and health issues seem to keep me from making any real progress and I think it might be time to let it go before it turns to dust. I do not expect to recover the money I spent on parts or the time I spent on it but I am not going to give it away for nothing. I am sure there is a bunch of other things I forgot to list but I am going to include of all of it and focus on my other less physical hobbies (guns/radio).

    What would be a fair price to ask for this basketcase? If I can't sell it whole then I will part it out but I would prefer not to do that. I am in no rush to sell it but the weather here takes a toll on everything here on the NC coast and I have no garage.


    Frame/Suspension
    This was a complete frame off restoration attempt. I stripped the frame, wire wheeled it the entire thing, coated the interior of the boxed section with eastwood interior frame paint, and coated the rest with masterchem hammerite black. I then top coated it all with black rustolium hammerite (I did not care for the greyish color of the masterchem product). The frame is in good condition with no rot. The boxed section is in very good shape and there are no issues between the motor mounts and front spring hangers (where intermediates usually rot). There was one crack repaired by the PO near the drivers side front shackle hangar. I did the same coating/paint to all the brackets, springs, and axles. I reassembled the rolling frame using HD greasable shackles with bronze bushings. I also installed the same greasable bolts and bronze bushings for the main eyes. I installed zerk covers on all greasable bolt fittings. I reassembled all the brackets and installed them with new hardware where possible. The bump stops and shocks are in usable condition so I did not replace them. The motor mounts are the correct original factory CJ V8 ones with the crossbar and new grade 8 zinc hardware and isolators. I drilled the stock bumper for a HF towbar. The towbar, safety chains, and a set of magnetic lights will go with it. They were used to flat tow the chassis home and then put in storage. I believe the front springs are stock and the rears may be aftermarket but it is not lifted at all.

    Axles/Wheels/Tires
    The axles have 3.73 gears in them. I installed a lock-rite in the front and I believe the rear is open. In the front, I installed new u-joints, new ball joints, and swapped on the big 6 bolt disk brake setup (including knuckles) from a 78 CJ7. I have new seals for the outers that have not been installed yet. I replaced the spindle studs and nuts with the correct ones. I rebuilt the warn hubs but did not refinish the outside of them (spare set included). The calipers/rotors/pads will need replaced. The bearings are good and will just need to be repacked once the rotors are changed and the new seals installed. I have not done anything to the rear other than clean, coat, and paint it. It has the 11" drums and I have a spare set. The parking brake cables are still installed, complete, and not frozen. I have brass vent fittings and the correct tap for both axle vents (not installed but included). Holes in the housings are drilled to correct size and plugged with rubber stoppers. The wheels are aluminum 17x9 and the tires are 32" BFG KM2s. The wheels need cleaned but are not damaged at all. The tires will need to be replaced before it is street driven but are ok for rollers or trail use (lots of tread but have been sitting in the sun for 3 years after being towed here). I have a matching spare tire and a non matching aluminum rim that is the same size and backspace.

    Motor
    The motor is the original 74 304 which was running when the jeep was torn down (no smoke or knocks). I have not been able to work on it at all and it is currently on a brand new engine stand (included). I intend to pressure wash it, paint it, and will get it installed back in the frame (with tranny and tc) so it can be easily hauled on a trailer. I have a replacement bulltear dipstick, a used edelbrock aluminum intake, a very slightly used Performance distributors DUI (still in the box but installed for one week and removed by PO), a used set of outside the frame headers with some generic mufflers welded to them, and a used Holley truck avenger 670 (needs a rebuild). I have a power steering setup off another 304 and I have the correct steering bracket, box, and arm (all need refinishing). Lines will need to be replaced. I have a gas tank that came with a parts jeep and the condition is unknown. I do not have any wiring, fuel plumbing, tranny cooling lines, hoses, or brake lines except a used braided stainless kit from a parts jeep (2 front 1 rear).

    Tranny/TC
    The transmission is an 88 YJ TF999 non lock up. It was in working condition when removed for a 5 speed swap by the PO. I have the converter and it has the lokar cable kickdown setup. It may need a selector seal and pan seal. It will need a cooler, cooler lines, and the small parts to matethe lokar cable to the 304/holley carb (verified available from lokar). It is mated to and 80s CJ Dana 300 with the currie twin stick kit. It has u-bolt yokes on it and needs the output seal installed (I have the seals). I used the YJ mount and had to drill 1 hole in the CJ crossmember for the torque stud. The crossmember was relocated back further for the auto swap and a 3/4" transfer case drop was fabricated from 1/4" plate steel. New grade 8 mounting hardware was used. I have a clocking ring setup that is included but not installed.

    Body
    The fiberglass tub is used and will need some refinishing. I believe it is from jcwhitney but I can not confirm it. It is double wall and it has a tailgate opening. I have the correct CJ5 tailgate and brackets for it (it was installed when I got it so I know it fits/works). The tailgate needs refinishing. I filled all chips and holes in the tub then reinforced the tailgate opening with marine grade expoxy resin. It needs sanded and primed. My intent was to use roll on monstaliner bedliner to cover the imperfections. The tub is a bit ugly but it appears to be usable. The 74 vin tag is screwed to the tub. I have to go to the DMV and have the inspector come out and document the parts so I can have it titled (they will title it as non operational vehicle - reconstructed - due to the fierglass tub and it not being running) here in NC. I have the clean Florida title from the PO. I have used fiberglass front fenders that need refinishing, a stock steel hood, and the stock steel grill (with rods/brackets/lights/radiator) both of which need refinishing but no rust repair. I have the original intermediate windshield assembly from one of the donors with the hinges that needs refinishing.

    The rest
    I have a few tubs of parts from other parts jeeps that contributed to the project. I have an original intermediate steering column with the turn signal box, and an aftermarket wheel that came with one of the parts jeeps but the working condition is unknown. I have late 70s CJ manual tilt column with pedals that I intended to use. It needs cleaning/refinishing but appears to be working. I have a CJ6 bestop with doors that needs 1 small rip fixed (I damaged it transporting it) but was usable when stored. I did not intend to use it so it has been in storage for 3+ years so condition is unknown now. The wiper motor needs replaced (per the PO) and I have a new cowl seal. I have a couple of dashboards with gauges and such. I have a battery tray that is new or near new. I do not have any seats but I have the steel angle iron (for mounting the tub) and steel box tube (for a reinforced seat mount crossmember). I have a rollbar (the kind that sits on the flat wheelhousings) but it needs rust repair.

    I think that the majority of it. I will take pictures when I post a for sale ad. I will be posting it here first so the forum crowd will get first choice.

    Thanks

    Bob
     
  2. Feb 25, 2014
    nwedgar

    nwedgar Now with TBI!

    Newnan, Georgia
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2005
    Messages:
    1,785
    I think the price is relative. Some folks like it in pieces so they can put it together the way they want, others won't like that. In Atlanta I've seen most assembled CJ6's in original-like condition go for $3-$4K, and the restored ones much higher. But I don't think I would go that high with what you listed.

    Perhaps pictures will tell another story though.
     
  3. Feb 25, 2014
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,617
    Oh, I would not paint such a rosy picture. Unfinished projects typically sell for bargain basement prices. Great if you are looking for a project or parts donor, not otherwise.

    Selling it as a big lot will be the worst return on your money. Typically the smaller and more numerous the sales you make, the better your return will be. So you have to decide how much effort and time you are willing to put into selling this stuff.

    Yeah, post some pictures.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2014
  4. Feb 25, 2014
    rcassettyjr

    rcassettyjr Member

    Shallotte NC
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2010
    Messages:
    193
    Ok I will add some pictures of the big parts when I get a chance. I was hesitant to post them as I though the admins would think it was a for sale thread and prohibit it.

    I realize I won't get as much out if it selling it as a whole. I was hoping to find someone looking for a CJ6 to do a frame off on so they would take it all. Sort of like ripping a band aid off - quick and semi painless.

    Thanks

    Bob
     
  5. Feb 25, 2014
    bkd

    bkd Moderator Supreme Staff Member

    K-Town Tenn.
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2007
    Messages:
    3,292
    Oh man if I had the money........

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
     
  6. Feb 25, 2014
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
    Joined:
    May 25, 2006
    Messages:
    2,823
    I just bought a whole 72 CJ5 with a hardtop for $400. So you are best off to list the parts individually. If you list up individual parts and are willing to meet 50 different craigslisters to make all those little sales then you may recover a lot more.
     
  7. Feb 26, 2014
    rcassettyjr

    rcassettyjr Member

    Shallotte NC
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2010
    Messages:
    193
    I actually parted out 2 other intermediate CJ6s when I was collecting parts for this one. I would prefer to find a buyer for it all at once but I will part it if I have to. Pricing parts is easy. I am more interested in what would be a reasonable price for all of it? I don't want to post it with some ridiculous price and offend everyone. Once I am ready to sell if I can find a buyer for the frame/tub/title who does not want the rest the I will have no problem parting it. I just don't want to part out the rest and be stuck with the big stuff. I am going to the DMV today to make the inspection appointment for the title.
     
  8. Feb 26, 2014
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
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    23,617
    What do you have in everything? If you can come up with a number, retail markup is maybe 50%, so try half of the total. You're not going to insult anybody. If it's too high, you won't get any offers, or just low-ball offers.

    Time is a big issue here. You may have to wait a long time for a buyer to come along that wants the whole package enough so they are willing to pay your price. Supply is low, but so is demand. It may take a while for the planets to align so that your willing buyer finds you and makes an offer.

    Realize that your buyer is taking on the same risk you have in buying a pile of parts. They will have to commit to finishing your project, or be willing to sell this stuff piecemeal to make a little money.
     
  9. Feb 26, 2014
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
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    23,617
    Another comment, if I may.

    Completeness is a central attribute of value. If you try to sell a shell of a Jeep, it will lose a lot of its value because the purchaser will have to buy all the stuff to complete it at near-retail prices.

    IMO the only way to approach this is to a) sell a complete package that can be built into a Jeep - and throw in all the stuff that you planned to use to make the Jeep, plus some extra, or b) sell parts.

    You might find someone that wants a shell for their own custom build-up. But I expect they will be wanting to pick and choose the pieces they want - then you can price the parts individually, and give them a deal on the package.

    So only a) or b) makes sense, from a buyer's perspective.
     
  10. Feb 26, 2014
    rcassettyjr

    rcassettyjr Member

    Shallotte NC
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2010
    Messages:
    193
    I finished the title paperwork today and now I just have to wait for the title in the mail. I am going to photograph the parts and then find someone to help assemble as much of it as I can so it will be easier to sell as a whole. I decided not to keep track of what I spent on it so I don't have any real figures. If I find a buyer that just wants the rolling frame/tub/title I will pull the powertrain back out and part out the leftovers.

    Thank you all for your opinions.
     
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