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Is a dana 30 worth it and are there any bad year models?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Warkmeister, Feb 18, 2014.

  1. Feb 18, 2014
    uncamonkey

    uncamonkey Member

    Greeley CO
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    Jun 2, 2009
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    2,104
    If you are only going for a mild wheeler, cost wise you could get by with the axle you have. I've had the Dana 25 in the front of my 3B for over 30 years includeing many trips to Moab. The only time I broke anything in the V6 drivetrain was on a frontage road in Vail, rear axle shaft, I can't explain it.

    Get a FSM, not a Chiltons, a real Jeep publication, learn about all of the set up procedures on the wheel bearings and king pins, it sounds like you might be able to correct your issue with a few adjustments and possibly some new bearings.

    As said, it might be the caster setting, it needs to be checked too as well as tire balance and even inflation can cause problems.

    Both the 3B and '69 Commando will do 80 MPH without any wobble or bad manners, both are still Ross boxes.

    As they say, just my 2 cents.
     
  2. Feb 18, 2014
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    +1

    If you've got a Chilton's or Hayne's they make good door stops. Or prop up the corner of your bed.
     
  3. Feb 18, 2014
    Warkmeister

    Warkmeister Member

    Fresno, CA
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    Jan 13, 2014
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    Great...I just bought a Haynes.....thanks again everyone for the good words
     
  4. Feb 18, 2014
    uncamonkey

    uncamonkey Member

    Greeley CO
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    Jun 2, 2009
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    2,104

    Or if your neighbors have an obnoxous chihuahua, you can throw the manual at it, hoping it will shut up for a few hours.
     
  5. Feb 18, 2014
    noahlon

    noahlon Old Fart

    Pine Ridge, AR
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2010
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    I second the Saginaw conversion. Have one, Dana 27, 1 1/2 wheel spacers, 2 1/2" lift, 32 11.50 15 tires. Runs straight and true at 60. All rural Arkansas county roads tho, no interstates. Solid and no play in the woods/rocks.
     
  6. Feb 18, 2014
    hizoot

    hizoot New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2013
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    5
    I so wish I had read this a couple of months ago....
    I was in an auto parts store,saw the Chilton,hastily looked in the table of contents to see if it had an electrical wiring diagram and purchased it. That weekend, I opened it up and found the wiring diagram so small that I couldn't even make it out with a magnifying glass. Plus, it was in black and white.
     
  7. Feb 18, 2014
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
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    5,466
    Love my 30 up front, running 33s and an OX locker with discs. I have the SM465, D18, OD and run 4.88s. I think it's perfect for the wheeling I do and I can run on the open road with it. I do serious wheeling trails, and for me the limit on the 25/27 front is 31" tires. IF your not hard on it and don't do real hard trails, you don't need the D30 - good option, not required. I would say that unless you run into problems, your fine with the 25/27 your talking about.

    You can always put one in later with just a rod change in the front after you go Saginaw as well.
     
  8. Feb 18, 2014
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
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    Sep 22, 2002
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    5,349
    As far as the haynes/chilton manuals, the older chiltons published in the 60‘s and 70's are good after that there crap. I have 2 old chiltons one from 1968 the other from 1977 both hard bound and over 600 pages each, great books and have saved me lots of times, especially the carb and steering box rebuild sections.

    As far as the dana 30, it was the single best change i ever made to my jeep.
     
  9. Feb 19, 2014
    Warkmeister

    Warkmeister Member

    Fresno, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2014
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    For what it's worth, I think my dana 44 rear is 4.89....at least that is one of the numbers stamped on the diff cover. Might be hard to see on pic
    <a href="http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/kylewarkentin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/8FCA6C60-4317-41BE-9D6D-16B7932A26FF.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee376/kylewarkentin/Mobile%20Uploads/8FCA6C60-4317-41BE-9D6D-16B7932A26FF.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 8FCA6C60-4317-41BE-9D6D-16B7932A26FF.jpg"/></a>
     
  10. Feb 19, 2014
    Warkmeister

    Warkmeister Member

    Fresno, CA
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    Oops maybe here
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Feb 19, 2014
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
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    Sep 20, 2002
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    4.89 doesn't sound like a stock ratio.

    Give us all of the numbers as they appear on the tag... (hit it with some brake cleaner & wipe with a rag)
     
  12. Feb 19, 2014
    oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    St. Charles,...
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    4.27 FDR is standard from 1966-1971 with standard engine
    5.38 FDR is optional from 1966-1971 with standard engine
    3.73 FDR is standard from 1966-1971 with optional engine
    4.89 FDR is optional from 1966-1971 with optional engine
     
  13. Feb 19, 2014
    Warkmeister

    Warkmeister Member

    Fresno, CA
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    Jan 13, 2014
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    One last thing to add. If I find a wrecked cj of the appropriate years that might just happen to have 4.88 or 4.89 gears, should I just take it's matching rear axle if I have the chance? FYI mine is the tapered dana 44 with 4.89 gearing
     
  14. Feb 19, 2014
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    Oct 29, 2012
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    No ...............you have a 67 CJ with an offset rear axle..........Your going to be changing over to a 72 and later Dana 30.............the rear ends in the 72-76 Cj's were centered Dana 44's and through 1981 they were AMC 20's which were also centered. Although the flanged 44 from 72-76 would be an upgrade ...........because its centered it would not work as it should without the drive line running at an angle............the later Corporate AMC 20's are also a tapered axle centered rear end that are not known for strength without additional work...................the best swap for your rear Dana 44 tapered off set axle would be if you could find a 70 through 71 Dana 44 offset flanged axle out of a CJ5..............confusing yes............gear changes are almost a given when upgrading to a Dana 30 from a Dana 27.
     
  15. Feb 19, 2014
    Warkmeister

    Warkmeister Member

    Fresno, CA
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    Thanks tarry99.
     
  16. Feb 19, 2014
    Mike C

    Mike C Member

    Austin, TX
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    I would still get the intermediate rear axle when you find a drum front (Most likely will be 3.73.) If nothing else that would give you a gearset that could be used in your existing rear axle to have matching ratios.
     
  17. Jun 24, 2014
    Warkmeister

    Warkmeister Member

    Fresno, CA
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    Jan 13, 2014
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    Sorry to drag this back up but I ended up just finding a dana 30 with discs out of an 80 cj5. It's still got the better hubs too. Stock gears are 3.07 but my Motive 4.88, carrier, and install kit just came yesterday. Now the question is about steering....Rocky-Road Outfitters yj leaf kit and OME springs will be here next week and I will be switching to Saginaw soon hopefully, but when you guys do a swap like this, do you just get a whole new heavy duty steering rod kit for, say, a 72-83 cj5? Mine is a 67 FYI.
     
  18. Jun 24, 2014
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Sep 23, 2002
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    The tie rod for narrow track can be ordered generically as they are the same for narrow track. Heavy duty is good :) The drag link may need a special length as that can change depending on how/where you mount your steering box. I'd wait until the steering box is in place along with the pitman arm and suspension before ordering the drag link.
     
  19. Jun 24, 2014
    Warkmeister

    Warkmeister Member

    Fresno, CA
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    Thank you sir. While we are on steering, are non-tapered TRE's not street legal or something? I have seen some kits that say to drill out the taper, and some provide a reamer....
     
  20. Jun 24, 2014
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    In some areas rod ends (heim joints) are not street legal. I won't install them on anything that is not double shear and that is not dedicated to off road use only. There are lots of debates over them, which I won't get into, but if you want to drive it on the road my recommendation is to stay with regular tapered stud tie rod ends.
     
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