ford t18 bearing retainer

So I am getting ready to order some parts so I can have the stuff to swap that t18 into the jeep over the break and had a few more questions:
those of you that our on your phones: engine 225, transmission is ford t18, using a pre71 buick bell housing


I called up PartsMike (he is the closest to me) the guy was talking about using a ford throw out bearing I have never heard of this? I think me and him had a mis-communication I never heard of any one using a ford throw out bearing with a buick 225 engine.

If you know anything about this please share?



otherwise I will go ahead and call up novak to get a machined bearing retainer so I can keep the Buick throw out bearing, and get a new pilot bushing too.


After reading thew many threads it seems like the least amount of headache would get the centerforce clutch disk and not gamble with flaps.
My question is which one?
Lynn posted up this centerforce clutch disk number 381021 which happens to be cheaper and an actual ford disk
Brunster posted this one up centerforce 384180 which is slightly more expensive and a Jeep clutch disk,
yes.... its about 13 dollar difference, and he didn't use a centerforce pressue plate like lynn

I don't see any potential problems they have the same spline, and everything the only thing is they don't mention the clutch thickness.


Last one is how many people needed an adjustable pivot stud for the throw out bearing? It looks like some do some don't

 

Randy, check Capital Clutch and Brake in W. Sac. You might be able source some of the parts locally. Are you doing the swap in Sac? I have a tranny jack and could lend a hand if needed.

 

Piffey.........First off you have a Borg Warner "Ford" Transmission so Think Ford not Buick..........The OD Of the Candlestick / Bearing retainer is Ford sized.........You can adapt or use either one ( Buick or Ford )in the bell housing . The Ford version normally has to be cut for length.....but you must use the proper sized ID bearing to fit the retainer.............the clutch disc must be "FORD" since the spline size is what you are after ( I think it's 1.062" on the Ford and Jeep is 1.125") Go to the Centerforce website or call them. The Pressure plate has to be Buick to fit your Flywheel............and again The Disc has to be Ford to fit your Transmission input shaft. The pressure plate will not know the difference if you have a Ford or Buick ID sized throwout bearing.
Centerforce normally has three options for clutch disc's again go on there website and look........most times you will want the standard OEM replacement disc............Advanced Adapters sells that complete clutch assembly as well as Summit & Jegs.........no rocket science here. Also you need the correct Pilot bushing or bearing............If you unclear about all these parts...........perhaps you could post some pictures of what you have...........the system has to be put together.... as mentioned some parts can be modified and mixed while others can't but knowing what you have will help to tell what you need.

 

Good info tarry. I found a bell so my thread will soon continue. I will be purchasing the Novak bearing retainer for my swap.

 

thanks Mike, but I'm doing the swap in Lake county where the jeep is, I appreciate the offer though.

Tarry:
regarding the throw out bearings I was just wondering if there was another option to be able to choose from.
I shall go with getting an already machined front bearing retainer so it will work with the GM throw out bearing.


whats interesting about the two centerforce part numbers is they are both 1.0625-10, but I think I will go for the ford disk I was leaning this way anyway.
the reason why I was questioning this about which one to use is some people who have done these swaps where having issues with the clutch disk being too thick.

the pilot bushing I understand.

I shall assume I can keep the original clutch pivot stud unless I run into an issue.

thanks terry, I am over complicating things, I guess sometimes too much research can be a bad thing.
I like knowing all my options too because when I go head back up to Lake county parts can be difficult to obtain at flaps if they are needed.

 

piff, if you would, please keep us informed with your progress. Part numbers and sources are always helpful. I haven't gotten to the clutch buying part yet so, your information will be very useful. P/Ns and details. I over complicate everything too. Thanks.

 

Of course I will keep you guys updated and keep track of part numbers used.

However, I cant actually perform the actual swap till after the 21 of December. So knowing that I cant do anything until then I am trying to track everything down before that date so I can complete as easily as possible. Including finding a local shop that can balance a rear driveshaft.

 

Just a heads up for another source, R&P has been supplying Ford bearing retainers machined for this conversion (pilot bushings too) for well over 20 years. Theirs allow the use if a stick GM release (throwout) bearing.
What you may not realize is the stock bearing retainer bolts won't work with the machined retainer. You need to use socket head bolts as they are a smaller diameter to clear the bellhousing.


Sent from my iPhone

 

I did call up R&P the other day, I have a price quote for their stuff. Novak was the only ones I haven't actually talked to.

I did not realize the bolt thing, that helps a lot.

 

Piff............Since your going to be in the Hills for this Install.......I think it's a good Idea to gather up all the parts you can.......you didn't mention what you had for a clutch fork........that has to be correct for the bearing. Also what throw out bearing do you have? Very common for some bearings and the attached collar to either be too short ( then linkage will be short) or too long and there's not enough room for the install......so hopefully you have the correct one. Also if you have a used flywheel , it would be a good Idea to get it surfaced. On your linkage are you going mechanical or hydraulic?.............On some forks they require a threaded ball that comes from your linkage that fits into the end of the clutch fork. If this is a new T-18 install that was not in a CJ prior to the shifting arm will have to be bent to clear the dash. Also if the body is on stock thin rubber body mounts the transmission shifter cover will hit the sheet metal floor boards and the top transmission sheet metal cover will not go on without it being modified.........a slight body lift using 1/2-3/4" poly puck's helps.

 

Okay, I recently resurfaced the flywheel. The clutch setup in it currently has maybe at most 150 miles. Do you think It would be okay to skip this step?

the throw out bearing is the one from herm, along with pressure plate. I was hoping I could use this throw out bearing because its still kinda new.

as for what clutch fork, I have no clue. I just know I got a t14 swapped into the jeep with a cast adapter, and it looks like a factory clutch fork.

the body I think is sitting a tad higher than stock, and the crossmember already has a 3/4 spacer. I don't think modifying the floor boards or raising the body should be an issue.


the transmission came out of a 78 cj5 so I imagine the shifter cane is prebent if not I can get it bent.

For the linkage, I have the stock linkage that is moved back 1/2 inch. I am converting the dana 20 case to an 18 so I don't know if I will have some issues. I would like to keep it mechanical for now.

 

If the pressure plate is good use it............still need a "FORD" Disc. Hard to tell what you have...........if you have all the stuff on the ground try a dry assembly , by bolting the Bell housing to the Tranny and then see if the clutch fork and bearing move OK on your bearing housing. Looks like the rest of the stuff may be fine

 

Thanks,

Yes I planed on dry assembling it, I will look out for the clutch fork thing when I do it.