My Prarie Gold 67' CJ-5

Looks good to me.




R)

 

Yeah! It did look good, at least 7 knotted connections under hood and behind dash.

I was running the wires to the rear and decided to remove the tire/can carrier to get it out of the way. Then I got distracted and started looking at the one bad spot on
the body.



Since the tire carrier was out of the way, I removed the mount on the pass. side, carriage bolts and hex heads so I
just ground the heads off and punched the bolts out. This is what was hiding underneath.



I couldn't continue running wires looking at that and the sun actually came out, so I got out the cutting disc and tiger saw.



Started right on the seam at the rear and went 6" wide to just in front of the wheel opening.



Template for the patch.

 

And the cause of the whole thing, the block of wood is still in remarkably good shape.



I saved the outer hood skin from the 82" one ton that provided the dana 60 for my POS, This is what I cut the patch panel out of.



I welded the inner brace where I cut thru it with the tiger saw, it was also in great shape no rot at all.
Then starting at the wheel opening and working toward the rear bending around the corner as I went I finished the major patch.
I welded the holes for the original spare tire and in one spot about 3" long, where the patch didn't match up I filled the gap with
a piece of 7018 rod with the flux knocked off and finish welded it.



I still have to fix the seam for about 2 inches above the end of the patch and around the tail light but this
will work for now.

 

Decided to finish the major body work since I am in sheet metal welding mode. Drilled the studs out of the tail lights and punched them out.
This is the fastest and easiest method for removal,the nuts are always rusted on and the studs turn in the housing any way. I'll tack 1 1/2 x5/16
bolts in the housing when I replace them.
Started on the driver side, this is the removal section, the bottom lip is still strong, just surface rust and a couple cracks around the body mount
this leaves enough solid material to weld to. Cut the bad out with a cut off wheel in the grinder and the tiger saw staying just above the body mount.



Fitting the patch panel, it's the same 3/32 sheet I used on the floor and that I used on the fire wall of my other project. I used the heavier material here
because it will mount the tail light, the body mount and it spans the joint in the rear panels. Welding this in is a breeze, you start the arc on the patch
and drag the puddle onto the thinner factory sheet metal. The patch fits tightly on all sides except the lower corner by the tailgate. This is so I can gently
pry and manipulate the patch with a screw driver, because it is flat and the panels on the Jeep are not. I move the patch to match the original shape of the Jeep and move slow
enough to prevent distortion.



Patch tacked all the way around, so I cleaned the rest of the seam, stripped with the flap disc then carefully ran the cutting disc up the seam to
clean the seam sealer and surface rust out.



Then I started welding the seam, if it's clean this is easy welding, turn up the wire and fill the seam. Jump around as usual to prevent warping
and stop and allow time to cool.

 

While the driver side cooled I started back on the pass. side. Basically the same size and shape as the other one.



Here you can see the piece from yesterday scabbed in to give me something solid to weld to.



Again tight fitting patch except the lower corner for adjustment purposes and the top corner that gets removed any way.



Then I jumped from side to side until the top and both edges were completely welded,except the last removal section, the seam I welded to yesterday
and the little spot of rot about 1" above it. There is also a little spot bubbling up around the center bolt hole.



Then I took (2) 5" pieces of 1/8"x2" channel cut off at the bottom at a 25* angle to match the existing body mount. Then welded them to the body
mounts and the patch panels, tying it all back together.



This patch I cut out of the chevy hood.



Of course I forgot I changed to a lighter patch material and had a little burn thru to deal with , but it's all nice and solid now.

 

Here is the body mount going in on the pass. side, and you can see how I finished the big gap in the lower corner see the 7018 rod
with the flux stripped off?



I finished welding the bottoms on each side, very slowly moving side to side and hitting the two cracks on each side
of both body mounts then hit it all with the 40 grit flap wheel.





All done, thin coat of mud and ready for paint. There is only one 3"x3" spot on the passenger side at the dash cowl brace and the major body work is done.

 

I wanted to finish the light mounts so I can start installing the wiring harness from here and work my way forward. The harness I have
has a separate brake light circuit so I decided to install an 1156 socket in the stock "hall style" lights for fun. The left side, light extension
was rotted away and crumbled in my hands when I removed it to patch the corner so I threw it away, I'm not putting the license plate on
the left side anyway so I don't need it. I used a 3/4" hole saw to cut the new hole. The light housing is pretty small so you have to be careful
or there isn't enough room for both bulbs.



Then I had to address the clear plastic liner, brittle and tricky to drill so I cut them with a dremel tool and this is the result.



I don't know how many people do this but whenever I work on this style short fender light I scrub the plastic as clean as
I can get it and then give the inside a couple coats of "chrome in a can" to improve reflection.



Both bulbs installed and "chrome" liner, and behind the liner the two 5/16" bolts welded to the housing and extending out the back.



Since I decided I didn't want to mount them to the body I built mounts to bolt to the bumper bracket. 1/8" plate
cut in a semi-circular shape around the flat back of the light, then down 7" and about 2" wide to the bracket.
Then a 2"x2'" box to set the light 3" from the body all bolted to the bumper with (2) 5/16" bolts welded to the back
of the bracket and the lock nuts inside the box.



The driver side light mount looking up, the 1/2" strap is the bumper bracket and the 1/2" bolt on the right is a bumper
carriage bolt. The wires for both bulbs run thru a hole in the top of the mount. You can also see one of the lock nuts
bolting the mount to the bumper. It's all assembled for photo purposes I'll put some split loom and finish the mounts
when I connect the wires to the harness.



Couple from above, driver side.



Passenger side.




And one from the rear, the bumper is just sitting on the jack stands and I have an extension sticking thru one
of the center bolt holes so the lights might look off but they are still adjustable and I'll align them when I bolt the
bumper on for good.
I'm happy with the look, if you didn't know better, at a glance they appear stock-ish and now nothing to rust out the
corners again.



Stock location for comparison.



The bumper builder left a couple places un-welded and and had a piece of one inch strap scabbed on the top center to
mount the license plate so I knocked the strap off finished the welding and cut this piece to fill the area under the tailgate
and drilled the upper bolt holes. With a little grinding and paint the bumper is done.

 

Beautiful day today 44 degrees, I am so excited the ice between the Jeep and the garage door is finally melted. I can move it closer to the door,
so I blocked the tires on the 6 inside the garage and hooked a cum-a-long between both and pulled this one up to the door, now my big welder
will reach to finish the frame.

Only 1 visible crack on this side, front of the x-member across the top already welded by a PO. So I chiseled the rivets off the shock mount and
the welds off the sides and knocked the mount off. You can see the old weld in front of the mount.



Then I reached in and tacked the x-member and the inside of the frame rail in case there was cracking behind the fish plate on this side




Then I ground the old weld down and re-did it, and started on the fish plate on this side. 4.5" grinder with a cut off wheel around the out side edge of the plate
and a couple relief cuts then chisel them off. This side is also easier because it's warm enough for the air chisel. When I did the driver side it was in the twenty's
and that is cold with an air chisel in your hands.



Comparing the fish plates from each side.



This side looks a lot better than the driver side just one small crack and no cobbled up sag. steering mount.



All cleaned up and ready for repair.



The long bead here is directly along the one on the inside that I welded to the x-member, plus a couple small repair welds.



Hit the small crack in the upper bumper mount/frame rail and the shackle hanger.



Filled the gap between the frame and the top of the x-member and the holes for the upper shock mount, I left the remainder
of the rivets in the frame and welded the holes.



Next I pulled the front frame horn template off the shelf and cut out the length I wanted.

 

New plate welded on the outside. I clamped it down and tacked it every 6"s or so, that way it will follow the contours of the
frame leaving no gaps.



Obligatory weld shot. You can see on the left that a gust of wind came up at the perfect time, note the porosity, so I had to finish
with my off hand shielding the work. One of the drawbacks of MIG welding outside.



Next I cut a piece of angle to tie the x-member and the frame boxing plate together.



Then I cut a small piece to tie the top of the frame and x-member together the same as the other side, except much smaller since
this horn is so much better.



Welded all the way around and joining the outside plate and the piece of angle.





Shock mount going back on, I just had to line it up with the welded rear hole and weld the front down solid, then I bent the rear
down to close the gap created by going half on and half off the top plate.



And fully welded, this completes the frame repairs on this little beauty.



Little shake and shoot and it looks sort of stockish,

 

Couldn't stand looking at the front end without a bumper so I decided to do something about it. Dug the bumper from the 6 out
of the pile and went to work. It was bent in and twisted on both ends and all the bolt holes are bent, typical for these things.
But it has a 3/8" plate welded on it that is already drilled for a 1" pin so I decided to use it.



An hour with a 4 lb. estwing and my anvil had it straight enough to work with. This plus the remnants of a channel bumper I built
for my B some years ago and have since cut up.



I test fit it before any welding, after hauling a plow and all the repairs I did it's a 1/4" off on the inside, measured face to face just above the
lower ears for the original mount. 25 1/2" should be 25 3/4" so I have to use the high lift to spread the frame for install.



I cut down the channel scraps to equal the 25 3/4" width and trimmed the bottom off at the web so it will fit inside the bumper
and welded it solid leaving a gap on the bottom on each end for the ears on the frame. Then I put it back on for the location
of the outboard reinforcement (2" angle) this was welded solid to create a flat spot for the new mounts (also 2" angle)
and to create a pocket for the frame horn to slide (hammer) into. Then I cut and drilled the new mounts.



The two pieces of 2" angle back to back forming the outboard mount.



The other side.

 

Here you can see the pocket formed by the channel on the right and the angle on the left. Both mounts are welded in
place and two 1/2 " bolt holes drilled thru the frame.



Other side looking straight down at the new mounts.



Now the bumper reinforcement and angle mounts on the inside hold the frame at 25 3/4" when the bumper is bolted in place.



Shot's of all the mounts with the bumper bolted in place.
Outside passenger side.



Inside passenger side.



Inside driver side behind steering box.



Outside driver side.



Now that it's bolted solid I can straighten the last bends and twists.



After a few blows with the 10lb sledge.


And the finished product all the holes welded up and ground, plus 1/4" reinforcement and bolted solid to the repaired frame horns.

 

Had to leave town for a week or so, but got back at it today. Did a little misc. stuff to complete the front bumper and the lighting
issues so I can resume wiring. I decided to strengthen the tow/winch point on the 71' now 66' front bumper. I cut a piece of 3/8"
scrap similar to the one already on the bumper and drilled a 1" hole.



Then I matched the holes with a 1" pin I had laying around from another project and welded it solid just like the bottom plate.



Next I cut (2) 1/4" plates 3.5"x 8.5" , drilled the top and bottom with 9/16" holes and welded them to the bumper, centered on the end of each frame horn.
These became the mounts for a couple dock bumpers I had laying in my junk pile. Then I primed and rattled a little black on the whole works.



Slightly different view. Now I can safely push and pull with this beauty, or be pulled for that matter.



One from above.

 

While the grill is out of the way for the frame repair/bumper build it is still close enough to look at and bother me. I got tired of looking at the repairs it needed,
so I had to take care of them this afternoon. It has a hole drilled in it above and left of the missing park lamp. A 3" crack with a couple branches extending from
the bottom and a 4" piece of the lower lip is gone,(it must have been cut off for the plow mount or hoses) and a missing park light!



So I cut and formed a strip of sheet metal to recreate the bottom lip and welded up the crack at the same time.



Then I trimmed a piece about the size of a nickle to fill the hole above the missing light. With careful welding, grinding
and cladding the hole and crack are gone and the new bottom lip is built.



Only one of these was included with the sale and I don't have another one on the shelf so time for another plan.



I did have 2 of these on the shelf and I really like the look of them.



However they had early sockets with 1158 bulbs, and 1158's don't come in amber so I took the dremel tool and opened up the slot for the
offset ground lug of an 1157 amber bulb. Then I cut a pattern off the backside of the light and cut the grill with the plasma cutter.
Although the plasma cutter will cut quite precisely it is so unforgiving and my hands aren't the steadiest, so I got as close as I dared and
cleaned it up with the dremel tool. Drilled the three holes for the mounting studs and here you go.

 

Both lights mounted and grill sitting on the bumper here.



Then just to show I really did alter the sockets for amber bulbs and paint the inside with the chrome in a can, I hooked them to my test
battery for a demonstration.

 

I really like that look!

 

Yeah I really think they go well with the other chrome pieces on this Jeep, I don't care for amber lenses or the later 70' + lenses. I was pretty disappointed when I realized I couldn't find amber bulbs for these lights anywhere but it's always something. They're on and I can move on to the next phase.

I got a little done today, but first I just have to share 1 really fun photo.

Back story: I was the first caller on this Jeep the morning the PO listed it on CL. I knew I was going to buy it and agreed to it over the phone, I have hardly ever seen a short fender
w/ hardtop I wouldn't buy for a thousand bucks. Seller said he would hold it for me until I could get to Grand Junction (160 miles) to see it and still let me back out if I wanted. A cursory glance
told me I was taking it home with me. I hardly even look to see if the frame on a shorty is broken, why get dirty crawling under it ? I expect it to be broken and if I get it home and it isn't
I consider it a bonus.
PO owned it a year or so and drove it off and on, never tagged it, just prime carb, jump start and race it around his neighborhood. Told me he couldn't believe how fast this little v-6 was, said if I didn't want it he would get it running for people to test drive.

This morning I jacked the front end up to get the legs of my cherry picker under the front end and the right front tire/wheel assembly almost fell off!
This is the 1/2" gap created by the (2) that's two of six, loose spindle bolts left holding the right side together !!
Top half is the knuckle, bottom half w/ bolt hole visible is the spindle.



So not only was the steering box flopping around on the frame but this was going on on the right front, and he was driving it, and I drove it, for fun although slowly and only 2 blocks from
my house. Point being this beauty is unbelievably clean but was absolutely not safe for any kind of test drive. So be careful when you jump in someone else's pile for a test drive.

 

Also about the last entry.
Suppose this thing had a tow bar as a lot of flatty's and shorty's had back in the day. Even though I'm against flat towing
with a tow bar I would use one to get a new project home. Imagine the excitement when the wheel and hub fell off while I'm dragging it down
I-70

Anyway I got the cherry picker under and pulled the motor for sealing and detailing. But first I wanted to finish the remaining section of the fire wall.



18 holes of various size welded up, ground and almost ready for paint.



Then I dropped the rest of the drive train to the ground and started on the master cylinder conversion. I'm sticking with a complete rebuild of the 10 inch drums all the
way around and mounting the master from my daily driver project. First time doing this job but it is pretty straight forward, simple and cheap, I have all the parts on hand.
Most importantly the piece of mind and better function of dual chamber brake system over the earlier single.

Old master and mount removed with air chisel and punch. The reinforcing strap broke loose at the front and is held down for test fitting the 71' bracket. I'll weld it back
down when I'm ready to go back together.



For some reason I didn't show the original mount in the previous photo, but here you can see how much of it I removed. Just cut along the upraised portion of the original
and the newer master will fit.



Then a beautiful day turned to rain so I picked up my toys and came in the house.

 

Cleaned up the passenger side as much as it needed, without the Ross box or master cylinder there wasn't any oil or grease just some dirt
to scrape and wire brush off.
I never under stood why the factory stopped boxing the frame halfway back on the spring hanger so when I have the trans out I try to add a
foot or so. Here is the piece cut out of a scrap of 3/16"x 4" strap.



Test fit, you can see it's notched to tie into the factory re-enforcing strap at the trans. mount.



Tacked in place.



All welded up, along with the 3 unused holes and a pass down the spring hanger/frame joint.

 

Couple coats of rustoleum bed liner brushed on the fire wall. First time using this product, it went on really easy and covered nicely. I've used gallons of herculiner in the past
and have been very happy with it, but I wanted something smoother for the fire wall and this stuff worked well.



While the fire wall dried I started stripping and cleaning the motor. Pulled all the accessories, wires and hoses then a wire brush in a 3/8 drill and a razor scraper
to get it ready for a coat of paint.



Then primer and the first coat of paint before it rained again.







Does anyone following along know what the long skinny sticker on the fire wall is ? It's on the battery side above the trim tag, I can tell a sticker is missing
but don't know what it was.

 

Raining today so I decided to try fixing the fenders. The driver side has a dent/cut from the bottom straight up about 8" and is pushed back an inch plus a couple other cracks. I suspect it got a little close to the snow plow that used to hang off the frame.



Bottom view the lip is smashed flat in a couple places and you can see how deep the dent is.



Couple hours with the hammer, dollies and vice grips got it looking like this.



The bottom again, lip pried and hammered back into shape.