Dana 44 19 Spline strength

Hey all,

I searched around and read some stuff on the 19 spline axles, but didn't see anything about people running them stock. I am doing a rebuild and have some 35" tires. I ran 32" tires previously and had no issues that I am aware of with the rear axles. I am now putting in disc brakes, power steering, and a hydraulic clutch.

I am also changing the gear ratio to 4.27's and was wondering what people's opinions where on the Herms Full Float kit. I don't have a ton of money so I don't want to buy it if I don't need it.

No locker for now, but may put one in in the future.

Thanks,

Evan

 

Thanks for the reply. I am leaning towards the 30 spline axles and hub flanges. I am going to have the front end rebuilt and get everything else done or close to done. Then I will see what is left over for the rear end.

I need to put new gears in it anyway and with new gears I need a new carrier because I am going higher. So I am thinking that it only makes sense to do it right the first time.

I might start a build thread so I can do some humble bragging about my project. haha

 

Ok, so since I don't know much about the age of my jeep (given to me as a birthday gift when i was 14 by my uncle), I thought I might go out and see if I had flanged Dana 44s. So, I can't seem to crawl under and read the casting, maybe you guys can tell from the pics. I ran out with the camera then back in the house. Garage is at 10 degrees F.

Passenger side from back


Drivers side from front.


They looked flanged, but I have no idea the difference between flanged and not flanged. Please tell me they are as I am very excited! haha

 

I believe mine are non-flanged. They have a grease cap and a big nut with a cotter pin. Which makes them the 19 spline jobs. So are my fronts. I have no problem wandering around the Arizona desert with them.

But then I don't go out and try to break my stuff either. I happen to think any one that does that is just plain idiotic. And if they have the money to be replacing all that stuff all the time, throw some in my direction. I can use it!

 

If it has a dust cover or you see a big nut in the middle of the flanged area it is a two piece tapered axle. If no nut or dust cover and is fairly flat (may have very small step or ring in center) then it should be flanged.


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doesn't look like the flanged, based on what i can see of the axle (the flanged has a flat area on top).

 

If you are still not sure, post a picture of the wheel center from the outside, not the inside.

The flange is on the axle itself, not the axle housing. You can only see the axle end from the outside.

Flanged:

Tapered:

The drake drum has been removed from the flanged axle, and the dust cap has been removed from the tapered axle end.

 

Ok, I think I remember dealing with a cotter pin when I first got the jeep back in 99. I have to pull the rear end out anyway, just didn't want to do it last night. Then I got excited so I took pictures in an attempt to substantiate my excitement. Ahh well.

I decided that it isn't worth it to run the two piece axles at all, since I might put in a locker at some point, so if they aren't flanged I am going to buy axles from Herm and use my hubs from my 27. Anything else I will need or need to do?

 

Depending on the year of the jeep or if an earlier axle might have been swapped in, it could be 10 spline. I think '59 or '60 was the changeover?

 

19 spline tapered axle shafts became the CJ3-B,5,6 standard in late 1956 near simultaneous with the D 44 Powr Lok option.
The 19 spline (involute) tapered axles are strong.
They will pose zero problems for the average Dauntless powered Jeep if its not obviously abused.

D 25 front axle Powr Lok was not available until 1960. And it accepts the original 10 spline axle shafts.

 

I think I have two piece shafts. I could not get the dust cap off though.


I am bringing the front end to the differential guy and he is going to put all new bearings and seals in with some 4.27 gears. I think those should be plenty.

Also, I was in a jovial mood so I tried out my new winter tires:


Thanks for all the advice guys! I think I am going to start a build thread this weekend when I have some time.

 

I talked to Herm (real nice and knowledgeable guy) about the FF kit. It seems like it is beyond my current budget.

He explained that if I wanted to run the hubs from my Dana 27, I would need to get hubs and spindles as well as all the bearings. What I didn't get is, if I got the axles and the Flanges. Do I still have to get the hubs and spindles? If that is the case, I might be able to swing the cost if I sell some of my other stuff on craigslist.


I am trying to do research on rear ends, but asking here is soo easy. :stout:

 

Remember the spindles will need machining and the back of the hubs if you plan on running disc brakes. If drum brakes no machining needed on the hubs. You will also need 27 spline 6 bolt locking hubs as well. 10 spline units won't work unless you change the drive gear. Only possible on the later Warn premium hubs.


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