lockrite locker install dana 27 front axle

installing a lockrite locker in the front axle. Pulled the front cover and drained the oil. also puled the hub and brake drum. Not shure where to go from here. Any one done one of these installs.

 

im pretty sure you have to pull the backing plate/hub so you can pull the axles out a bit. good time to clean and check the axles and everything while your in there.

 

The spindles and axle shafts must be removed. Then the pinion shaft in the case and pinion and side gears must be removed. Depending on bow thick the ring gear is the case may need removed and the ring gear removed from the case. Take note of the ring gear to case location and make sure it's reinstalled in the same location. Make sure the ring gear bolts are in good shape and oil free. Put a drop of threadlocker on the bolt threads and torque them per specifications in a crisscross pattern like torqueing lug nuts on a wheel. Then reinstall and torque the carrier bearing caps. Make sure the threads are clean and oil free and put a dap of sealer on the threads. Iirc the 27 carrier bearing cap bolts go through the carrier (center section, pumpkin). This can cause oil leaks if the threads aren't sealed.


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Thats what I thought, bigger project than I thoutgh it was going to be. It allways good see how every thing looks inside. Just dont want to make it a bigger project than it needs to be. thanks for the input.

 

thanks for the tips ring gear, ring gear bolts with thread locker and cairrer bolts with sealer. very helpfull thankyou so much. I dont do this kind of work very often, but enjoy doing it myself especially when I get it right the firs time.

 

Make sure you put the carrier bearing caps back on in the same place they came out. The spindles, too.

 

Its a good time to put new seals in also they are in the diff case too.

 

Good point. I agree
Actually they are in the carrier (pumpkin). The case is the part the ring gear bolts to.


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doh

 

I made a simple tool for installing the axle seals in the diff housing. If you don't weld you could probably get by without welding the washers together. Or you could epoxy them together. It's basically a set of three washers that go from the size of the seal to the size of the all-thread. As I recall I had to grind the OD of the large washer to get it to fit the recess for the seal. I recommend doing one seal and them the other. You want to avoid getting the seal cocked in the bore and that is easier if you do one at a time. Although the directions say you may be able to install the Lockright without pulling the case, it is much easier with the case out. You may need a pair of prybars to get it out and be ready to catch it when it comes out. I use a deadblow hammer to put it back in. Good luck and don't be afraid to post up ?'s for the members. It may seem like a lot more work than you thought, but one step at a time, it's not that bad. I think I used 5/8" all-thread for the seal tool.

 

Make sure you install a high sheer cross pin. They recommend it.

 

I have done (4) lockrights now (3 and a Spartan for the 60 actually), and on my Dana 60 front I was able to do it with diff case still in the housing (4.10 gears), but on my Dana 23 (4.88:1) and my Dana 44 (5.38:1) and Dana 70 (4.10), each required the removal of the case from the housing. The 23 and 44 required the ring gear to come off. The 70 because the roll pin couldn't be driven out.

Make sure you do the measurements to make sure everything is in spec. I had issues with the Spartan. It is a really nicely made piece, but it was missing 2 of the 4 springs in the shrink wrap package. And it says you use the original thrust washers also, but there is no way I could get it together as the spacers wouldn't spread far enough to get the cross shaft back in. After removing the thrust washers and measuring everything, it was spot on.

This is just for a dually I have at the farm and it will not see a lot of use. If it was someone who was paying me or if it was going to see a lot more use, I would have probably sent it back to Randy's for a replacement.

 

I recently did this myself. To remove the carrier I used a rag and fed it between the ring and pinion gear. It rolled right out using a small pry bar (on the ring gear bolts, not the gear). Assembly was straightforward but took me 3 test fits because I couldn't figure out how the inner cups fit from the instruction diagram. Installing the carrier was the most difficult for me. I found that by angling the bearing cups to the center a few degrees (toe-in if doing an wheel alignment) I could hold everything in place with forward pressure and a few light taps with the dead-blow started everything nicely. A friends help here would make the process much easier. If I was going to do this frequently I would make a case spreader.

Since I already had the spindles off I went ahead and replaced the king pin bearings. Although I had no symptoms of a problem I found 3 of the 4 bearings and cups needed replacement so I replaced them all (one fell apart after removal). More time consuming than the lock-right install but no more difficult.

Good luck.