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Tranny leak after rebuild

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by windyhill, Aug 30, 2011.

  1. Aug 30, 2011
    windyhill

    windyhill Sponsor

    PA
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    Nov 4, 2006
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    1,502
    I've rebuilt:
    Transmission (I sealed cluster gear shaft at front. used sealent on any bolt going into tranny, oiled my seals etc.)
    Transfercase (new gaskets, used good stuff sealant on splines of both yolks, aviator sealant on shims, etc.)
    Overdrive ( rebuilt completely, new sincros. shift collar, gaskets, seals, etc.
    New rear main seal (engine was rebuilt by PO but I wanted to be sure. )
    New oil pan gasket (sealed with good stuff sealant torqued carefully)

    Took it for a test drive and when I got home
    Radiator boiled over!
    there's a nice 2" puddle of gear oil on the floor! Looks like it's dripping from the bell housing or above possibly from the top if the tranny but I don't think so.
    slight leak from front yolk on transfercase.
    Overdrive works great in OD but won't seam to stay back in direct drive. if it hold it in there it works great, so I'm thinking maybe my linkage is having an issue?

    Ok I"m about done with this @#&* old 2A!:evil:
    Oh on my shift tower the front plug left plug fell out when I was rebuilding, would that make a diff? I figured the rear's don't even have a plug so maybe they aren't needed. Could that be a source of the leak? other then that I'm out of ideas.
     
  2. Aug 30, 2011
    ggreenwood37

    ggreenwood37 Member

    Pittsburgh PA
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    Hope this isn't contagious... Did you have any issues with the locking plate for the shafts? Mine had to be trimmed quite a bit, and I'm praying it doesn't cause leakage when I get everything back in and filled up with fluid.
     
  3. Aug 30, 2011
    windyhill

    windyhill Sponsor

    PA
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    No mine was good, nothing leaking between tranny and transfercase. I just went out and ripped into it again, I think I figured out my OD shifting problem, shift linkage was hitting tranfercase a little bit at the shifters. I'm reworking linkage now. I took the floor cover off and it does look wet up top, I think the shift rail hole may be part of the problem at least.
     
  4. Aug 30, 2011
    Hawk5274

    Hawk5274 Member

    Ohio
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    Nov 10, 2009
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    163
    2A? T-18? My 56 CJ5 leaks a bit you can call it that. I get worried when it doesn't.....Maybe there is a break in period on the new gaskets? I have never seen and old JEEP that doesn't leak a little. You re made the thing so it wouldn't leak but I don't think it was what you did if the seals where felt that is the way they work. They do ooz oil.
     
  5. Aug 30, 2011
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    Mar 4, 2003
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    5,466
    Mine always seem to leak a bit after a drive... It's strange that it does not seem to need any filling either right now. Not sure if that means I over filled at first, or it's just peeing on the driveway 'cause it's happy (you know, like a puppy:) )
     
  6. Aug 30, 2011
    jrscafe

    jrscafe Member

    Janesville,...
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    May 14, 2011
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    Hey, that means my 63 CJ5 is happy too. R)
     
  7. Aug 30, 2011
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
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    The shift rail holes can leak a bit as the oil is thrown up into that area when driving then it will leak out the rail bores.
    If you find it leaking out the bellhousing and it's gear oil, most likely leaking past the felt seal for the input shaft. Very common. Many folks have gone to a sealed bearing to minimize this. Sorry but I don't have the part # handy. If you didn't put sealer on the threads for the front bearing retainer or the bolts that hold the oil channel in place could be leaking from there as well.
     
  8. Aug 31, 2011
    windyhill

    windyhill Sponsor

    PA
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    I did seal the threads in the bearing retainer bolts, I'm using the felt seals on the input shaft, I put a little oil on the felt before I installed them figuring it might help them seal. Man, wish I'd know about the sealed bearing for the input, I'd have gone that route.

    Are there ways of checking a radiator to see if it's ok? I have new 180 thermostat on the way, but it was only about a 15 min drive and it started spraying out the overflow on my test drive.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2011
  9. Aug 31, 2011
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
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    An infrared thermometer is the easiest. Look for cool spots around the radiator core indicating it's plugged up. That or take it to a shop and have it flow checked or rodded out.
     
  10. Aug 31, 2011
    65TuxPark

    65TuxPark New Member

    Mid Michigan
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    Aug 3, 2007
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    Does anyone know where I could find out OR have the part number for the sealed bearing? This is for a T-90, right?
     
  11. Aug 31, 2011
    Gwillys

    Gwillys 1953 CJ3B

    Southington, Ct
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    Id like the sealed bearing number also.
     
  12. Aug 31, 2011
    windyhill

    windyhill Sponsor

    PA
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    From this artical: http://www.willystech.com/wt/T90RebuildGuide/T90rebuild.htm

    "Richard Needham - Well I made it out to the shop and found the bearing number for the front of the T-90 with the seal. It's a SKF bearing but any good auto parts store should be able to cross reference to another brand.

    SKF---6208-2RSNRJ/EM

    Note: You must remove the seal from the inside of the bearing, to allow the 90W oil to lubricate the bearing. Also there is a drain-back hole in the front of the transmission that must be plugged if you use this bearing. When you remove the 3 Allen bolts to take the cover off the front of the transmission, you will see there are 4 holes in the transmission the one with no treads is the drain hole. Plug it with silicone or tap it and use a small pipe plug. Otherwise the sealed bearing will do no good because the oil will run out the drain hole.
    I tried to locate the bearing that Richard used but was unable to find it. I did some local research and found this sealed bearing.
    MRC brand Part #208-SZZG
    I found them at Purvis Bearing in San Antonio (210) 299-1010. They cost $31.25 (At the time I authored this July 2000) and they had them in stock. They said they would mail order them to credit card customers. They also said to leave the seals installed on both sides because the bearings were designed to run for over 100,000 miles without servicing.
    Update: (Nov 2005) Mike Harris has reported paying $48.86 plus tax for his bearing at the Purvis Bearing in Austin and I recently paid about $51 out the door here in SA. These beings have gone up a lot in 5 years

    [COLOR]"
     
  13. Sep 2, 2011
    windyhill

    windyhill Sponsor

    PA
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    Ok a quick up date: I got the new plug and installed it on the front of my shift tower. I also installed a new 180 thermostat, and after checking the linkage on my overdrive I found that it was binding slightly against the transfer case where the levers are attached. I removed it and re bent it so it doesn't hit and The OD seems to work great now!!! There also doesn't seam to be any oil leaking yet either after a 20 min test drive, the radiator also hasn't boiled over yet! Woo hoo!:)The only bummer is I got a new radiator on the way now because I was sure my old radiator was shot after putting my old thermostat in boiling water to test it and having it open fine. Oh well. I'm much happier for now.:tea:
     
  14. Oct 3, 2011
    Dingado

    Dingado New Member

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    I've got the felt seal for the inut of my t-90 engines out should I just use that or find a sealed bearing. First time I've done this seal.
     
  15. Oct 3, 2011
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Use the sealed bearing if you want to eliminate/minimize leaks
     
  16. Oct 9, 2011
    Dingado

    Dingado New Member

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    Is that sealed bearing the main impute bearing and how do you seal the outside of the bearing when installing?
     
  17. Oct 10, 2011
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Yes, it's the main input bearing. There is a gasket that goes between the front retainer and case. Typically the bearing fits tight enough where there is no leakage but you can use the felt seal and seal out any "residual" oil that works it's way past.
     
  18. Oct 13, 2011
    Dingado

    Dingado New Member

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    Ordered sealed bearing today, be in tomorrow . The salesman said the skf is the best on the market and bearing life would be the
    same if you removed the inner seal or not so I'll just leave in on.
     
  19. Oct 16, 2011
    Dingado

    Dingado New Member

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    Pick up bearing, good thing I didn't jump right into installing it or I would have been pulling the motor a 3rd time. Went for a ride today and got home with motor oil pouring out of the bell housing,
    I guess the rear seal has seen all the life it could give, that and the front right inner oil seal has started to leak. Old jeeps are just too much fun.
     
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