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British Columbia do it all CJ2A build with V8 Power

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by avmechanic, Oct 25, 2008.

  1. Sep 10, 2010
    '72CJ5

    '72CJ5 Member

    Modesto,...
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    May 12, 2010
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    Looks really good. I may be having a moment, but what is that box sitting next to the drivers seat?
     
  2. Sep 11, 2010
    avmechanic

    avmechanic Gearhead

    Langley B.C. Canada
    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2008
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    263
    That box sitting next to the drivers seat is the the heater I will be using. I am just making sure it will fit between the seats. It is just a tractor heater from a local farm and tool supply place I frequent. It is 20,000 BTU hot water heater. It looks like it should work well. The heater sucks air in the side and blows out the front and the back as it is sitting in the picture. With this Jeep being an M38 body there is very little room under the dash for a heating system because of the battery box in the cowl. This seemed like a good way to have some heat up here in the Canadian north. I will mod the heater box a little bit as well as come up with a mount for it yet. I was also thinking of adding electric seat heaters as well.
    Greg
     
  3. Sep 11, 2010
    '72CJ5

    '72CJ5 Member

    Modesto,...
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    May 12, 2010
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    980
    Ah, thanks for clearing that up for me. It sounds like she should work just fine to me. We ran a similar (sounds bout the same) type heater in an old rail car mover which was mounted under the steering wheel. Cab was about the same size as a jeep, maybe a littler narrower, and it took a couple minutes but it always kept it purdy cozy inside there.
     
  4. Sep 12, 2010
    sammy

    sammy Coca-Cola?

    Albuquerque, NM
    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2007
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    1,577
    Electric seat heaters are the shizzle :D
     
  5. Sep 21, 2010
    OldSchoolJeep48

    OldSchoolJeep48 Work In Progress

    Elgin, IL
    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2004
    Messages:
    69
    How are you going to bring the headers trough the fenders? I would think you are just going to remove the inner sheetmetal, but that wouldnt make sence since you did all that work to acomidate the shocks and mounts...

    Im sure it will look great when your done!
     
  6. Sep 22, 2010
    avmechanic

    avmechanic Gearhead

    Langley B.C. Canada
    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2008
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    263
    Actually the fenderwell headers clear with basically no fender trimming at all on the flatty. There is already a pretty big opening between the forward body mount support on the firewall the inner fender. Here is a couple of pictures with the fenders off.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Greg
     
  7. Oct 31, 2010
    kensdodge1

    kensdodge1 New Member

    cato ny 13033
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    Jul 10, 2010
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    Hey thats an awesome build im goin that basic same route on my my fake mb but ill be runnin 36" rubber and stretchin the wheelbase . Can i get a measurement from the wheel arch to the top of your 34's ? maybe i missed it but what year cherokee did u say you got the swing pedals from ?
     
  8. Nov 8, 2010
    avmechanic

    avmechanic Gearhead

    Langley B.C. Canada
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    I believe they are 92' Cherokee pedals. I will try to get you a measurement to the wheelwell when I get by where my Jeep is. I have been quite busy lately with moving into a new home and work. I don't think I will have much time to spend on the Jeep until later in the winter. We are expecting a little one in December and I am trying to prepare our home for the bundle of joy.
    Sounds like a cool build you have on the go. Are you going to post a buildup on the Forum?
    Greg
     
  9. Nov 8, 2010
    kensdodge1

    kensdodge1 New Member

    cato ny 13033
    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2010
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    i would but my junk aint no where nice as yours i guess considering where it came from it aint to bad but it aint pretty dont think it'll ever be either mine will be strictly a trail rig/driver i was on the cj2a forum but its a lil stuffy over there . but thanks for the tech and when ya git a chance let me know what those measurement are thanks . right now my tub is at 51" but no engine tranny or tcase heres a link with a bunch of piks for ya
    http://twistedtoys4x4.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=517
     
  10. Nov 11, 2010
    Rush4x4

    Rush4x4 New Member

    Texas
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2008
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    47
    Greg, first of all, you do awesome work! I'm not ashamed to say I'm completely copying your idea for the Cherokee pedals, the tranny cover, and the rear wheelwell modifications! That's probably not all, either!

    Could you please tell me what, if any, modifications were required to get those Cherokee pedals to mount up under the dash aside from just drilling the six holes in the firewall? Did you have to fabricate anything for the two-bolt-mount on the top of the pedal assembly or did you just leave that part alone?
     
  11. Nov 11, 2010
    avmechanic

    avmechanic Gearhead

    Langley B.C. Canada
    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2008
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    263
    Thanks for the Kudos. One note is that the wheel well mod that I did ended up being a little more than was necessary. I didn't have the seats yet when I did it so I made sure that I would have plenty of clearance. I think I cut back 4" and could probably have done 3".
    Here is a picture of the unmodified pedals.

    [​IMG]

    One day when I am back working on the Jeep I should try to get a picture of what I had to do to fit them under the dash. I might even do a separate build thread for others to reference in the future. Basically I just cut the 2 bolt top angled portion off by a couple of inches so I could get the pedals high enough up under the dash. Just take a square to the firewall surface and cut across the top maybe an inch above the swing pivot bolt. I only lifted it high enough to get the pedals to swing nice and still have the brake booster just clear under the hood. After I cut that bit off of the angled top bracket area I added some flat plate to the top and carried it back towards the dash then bolted it to the dash for added support. It makes the pedal frame and booster support really rigid to the firewall. Like I say, I wish I could give you a picture of what I did but I don't have one. It is pretty easy and straight forward.
    Greg
     
  12. Nov 11, 2010
    Rush4x4

    Rush4x4 New Member

    Texas
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2008
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    Awesome! Thanks for the info. Can't wait for the next update on this build! I also meant to ask if you were ever able to find out from you father-in-law what the throttle pedal was out of?
     
  13. Nov 11, 2010
    avmechanic

    avmechanic Gearhead

    Langley B.C. Canada
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    He didn't really remember but thought it was from a late 70's Ford pickup.

    Greg
     
  14. Nov 26, 2010
    turbo

    turbo New Member

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    Dec 15, 2009
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    Greg,

    Totally awesome build. I was beginning to get down in the dumps about all the work remaining on my project (56 DJ3A on a 48 CJ chassis), until I saw yours. Mine will never look like yours, my goal is to build a retro-old school style but with a few modern upgrades. It is running currently with the stock running gear and engine, but I've collected quite a few parts including a 2001 chevy 4.3L V6 for the build. Mine will essentially always be a work in progress, such as an incremental build.

    In reading your posts, I see you are doing a few of the exact upgrades I have in mind for mine. Perhaps I missed it in your posts, but can you elaborate on your dual tank setup? I'm doing the same thing, but haven't engineered the plumbing or pump setup. I was thinking of running an intank pump in the aft tank and simply plumbing/pumping the underseat tank to the aft. Thoughts?

    Thanks again for sharing your work with the rest of us.
    also Greg.
     
  15. Nov 26, 2010
    avmechanic

    avmechanic Gearhead

    Langley B.C. Canada
    Joined:
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    OOOHHH THANKs! That means my project is so huge that it will never be finished! Anything you are doing MUST be a piece of cake compared to mine! Are you saying I should just quit now! LOL :rofl: Now I am depressed.:( I will get it done some day:)

    As for my dual fuel tank plans, I was going to do just as you mentioned. I will use a low pressure electric pump to transfer into the main tank (back tank) The back tank will have a high pressure fuel injection pump in it. I will hook the transfer line into the back tank through the old fuel pickup line or return line. It should work well. Good luck with your project and thanks for the interest in mine.
    Greg
     
  16. Nov 26, 2010
    turbo

    turbo New Member

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    No, sorry, I didn't mean to imply anything but positive regards to your project. My message was meant to say that you have motivated me again. My project was becoming more work with little or no reward lately so it is at a danger point of being shoved into the corner and forgotten.

    I'm glad to hear that my idea for the fuel system is similar to yours (gives me credibility). How will you activate the fuel transfer process? Will it be a manual on/off switch/valve or will you trigger it automatically somehow? I haven't thought much beyond what's been discussed above. I'm also wondering about the return line from the engine and the potential for it to overpressurize the underseat tank (I guess a one way valve would prevent that though). Maybe I'm over thinking it (pressure fuel cap on the aft tank vs vented on the underseat tank?) I put a 1990 model 5.0L in my 66 mustang back in 92 and had to eventually run a vent line from the tank forward to dump the extra pressure at a vaccum source at the engine because the high pressure pump was overpressurizing the tank via the return line.

    I'd be very interested in hearing all about it when you work it all out.

    BTW, did you have someone re-flash your engine computer yet? I've got to have it done on my 4.3L to remove the anti-theft system, electronic transmission code, etc., just looking for thoughts on who you used or consider using. I'll be running a TH350 automatic in mine.

    Thanks again,
    Greg
     
  17. Dec 15, 2010
    junkfood

    junkfood Member

    Casa Grande,Az.
    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2005
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    222
    Love the build! You are doing a fantastic job, just wish mine looked that good. But wanted to warn you that you might want to rethink your tank plumbing. Not sure about up there but, down here running one tank into the other is illegal on gas powered vehicles. That's the reason when you see a factory setup with dual tanks it always uses a valve to switch the feed from one tank to the other. Not sure what the reasoning is because it is legal on diesel powered vehicles.
    Keith
     
  18. Dec 15, 2010
    Mike S

    Mike S Sponsor

    Cameron Park Ca.
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2009
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    811
    Another gift from the smog Nazis.
     
  19. Dec 17, 2010
    sammy

    sammy Coca-Cola?

    Albuquerque, NM
    Joined:
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    Looking good man. Wishing sometimes I'd put a late model V8 in mine
     
  20. Jan 29, 2011
    mjs408

    mjs408 New Member

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    Apr 14, 2008
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    I may have missed this in the thread,but what axles are you using? Do you know the WMS to WMS measurment? and what is the back spacing on your rims? Im getting ready to start a restomod, and have been dwelling on what axles to use. Am thinking a dana 44 front from an NT waggy, and amigo dana 44 rear, but am not sure on the width (58ish wms to wms)

    Never mind, I see hes using NT Dana 30, whats the wheel bs though?
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2011
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