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Started My ECJ5 Build

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Long&Low, Feb 15, 2010.

  1. Jul 1, 2010
    Mr. Gangrene Jeans

    Mr. Gangrene Jeans I See Voices&Hear Visions

    Kansas City
    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2009
    Messages:
    282
    Looks like good progress. The hood hinges on your cowl are from an Intermediate, cast but not removable. Think I would use those for the lower door hinges instead of the slotted ones in the picture. That may have been what you planned all along, and were just using them for a mockup. I plan to use two pair for some half doors, don't have the upper hinge worry that you will take care of.
     
  2. Jul 1, 2010
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2009
    Messages:
    1,212
    Yeah, not sure of a lot of things on this. The driver's side fuel opening is blank, not sure of someone filled it in or not. Plus a few other tidbits.

    Anyways, got the body on the frame and mocked up the front fenders just to get a feel of how it all fits. Need to start making the body mounts tomorrow including making integral rocker protection / frame tie-in / body mount combo.

    I'm convinced the springs are lift springs of some make and height. This sits way to high to be a stock suspension from all my recollection. 33's would be an easy fit, and still allowing for decent axle articulation.

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  3. Jul 2, 2010
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2009
    Messages:
    1,212
    Welp, mounted the rear calipers, fuel tank and cut out the opening for the driver's side fueling point. Mounted the dash (stole the one off my daughter's Jeep, took the dash off in the pic above, too hacked up around the steering column mount), started mounting the steering column. Mocked the grille up and hood. Need to make sure I got everything in place, so I can get the steering shaft in place and then start making the steering box mount and placement.

    Out of the three grilles I have, only only one is for a 4 cylinder, and that one was ca\ut and hacked for the previous above frame power steering hack job..... GRRRRRR. I need to either cut and paste from one of the others, or try to pull the grille face off and re-skin it, or just look for one of them bling chrome or stainless grille overlays....
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2010
  4. Jul 4, 2010
    Kman

    Kman Member

    Middletown...
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2005
    Messages:
    410
    Heres a couple of pictures of the Meyers/Orville upper door hinge brackets. I looked at my dads but I didn't have another set.
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  5. Jul 5, 2010
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2009
    Messages:
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    Thanks, that will help is getting some brackets fabbed up.

    Mike
     
  6. Jul 7, 2010
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2009
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    Well I've decided to breakdown and pay a visit to Flaming River, with them being about a half hour away, I can take em my steering box, my column, and we can piece together the correct parts for the jouints and the intermediate shaft. Nickel and diming steering ain't the way to get it done.
     
  7. Aug 1, 2010
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2009
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    1,212
    Well got some more stuff done. Finished my corner guards and got the tail ights mounted. Finished by upper door hinges for the hard top. Got the YJ windshiled mounted correctly and set for the door spacers for the hard top.

    Mounted my manual box to the frame horn, just gotta hit Flaming River for an intermediate shaft 5/8 splined both ends, and need a new u-jouint for the end of the steering column (postal). I had to mounted it up higher than most folks cuz of the drop of the YJ pitman arm, and thus had to hack into the cross member for the radiator, but plated that all.

    Painted the radiator (yes, white, why because i never seen a white radiator before, usually black, aluminum, or brass/copper with a clear finish). Got the tunnel cover pieces in, but the center piece hits the shifter tower. I'll be lowering the -t-case rear outpu to angle it down due to the D20 and rear driveshaft angle, so that may alleivate that interference. Picked up a new grille, much better then what I had. I think I'll stick with my fiberglass fenders.

    Also cut in and mounted the new gas filler hole on the drvier's side. mine was patched in closed. Got some holes to fill in the floor, probably make patches for them and screw them in place. Still gotta figure out the material for body mounts. I want to stay away from hockey pucks, but they are inexpensive, but they need replaced.

    Plus have a handfull for other parts to mount. S10 manual master cylinder. ARB line for the front, painted the gas tank strap orange. And a box full of other stuff.

    Really need to figure out what to do with respect to the defrost vents and ducting.

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    Last edited: Aug 1, 2010
  8. Aug 1, 2010
    Kman

    Kman Member

    Middletown...
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2005
    Messages:
    410
    Looking Good! What are your plans for a heater? You could always cut the later CJ('76-'86) defrost holes in the bottom of the windshield frame and use the matching plastic deflectors on the inside of the frame(once again cutting holes).
     
  9. Aug 1, 2010
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2009
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    1,212
    I have a later style CJ5 defrost duct system laying around. I'm not quite sure on what i'll do. I'm thinking of running one or two heaters (prolly Summit's stuff), one for defrost and front heat, and the other for feet heat and rear heat. I'm thinking of mounting the dash about 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch from the cowl, and making a disburser that runs the length of the windshield.
     
  10. Aug 26, 2010
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2009
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    Well got the hood, windshield, fenders, grille, tub all primed, plu some odds and end pieces. One of the fenders came out looking like Niagara Falls with that many runs. So, need to do some finish sanding, and hope to have paint on it by Saturday, getting all the pieces including the hard top side panels hung is gonna put a squeeze on space......
     
  11. Sep 4, 2010
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2009
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    Well finally got lots of progress done on the painting. In the shadows it looks more orange than the red it is in the direct light. Got all the major items except for the doors painted.

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  12. Sep 4, 2010
    bkd

    bkd Moderator Supreme Staff Member 2022 Sponsor

    K-Town Tenn.
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2007
    Messages:
    3,294
    that looks great!!! :lurk:
    Jim
     
  13. Sep 4, 2010
    '72CJ5

    '72CJ5 Member

    Modesto,...
    Joined:
    May 12, 2010
    Messages:
    980
    Looks really good. Is your hood original?
     
  14. Sep 4, 2010
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2009
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    Thanks, it's Valspar tractor paint, nothing fancy, durable, and easy to spray. It's the second vehicle that I've painted. The pictures really turned out spotty, and kinda crappy. It's the same stuff used on the J10 in my avatar. The interior roll cage, and inner parts of the hard doors will be a cream / antique white. Some folks don't tractor paint cuz it'll fade if it sits out in direct sunlight long. But it's tractor paint, what else do you expect? Next vehicle will be painted with real auto paint, maybe a base coast/clear coat.

    The hood is original, but look on the previous page for the "JEEP" modification. One side turned out perfect, the other side is rougher with respect to the patching.

    Next comes the assembly. Monday I'll mount the windshield, fenders and grille.

    I picked up a 3 wire GM alternator, and McRuff is making a bracket for it. And I picked up a Toyota FJ40 starter, so that will get installed also. I don't really plan on finishing till next spring. Everything is getting replaced or updated.

    I got my master cylinder installed, it's a Chevy S10 manual MC, I'll throw some pics up with that installed, once I get that finished.
     
  15. Sep 5, 2010
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
    Joined:
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    Got the glass in the side panel of the hard top and mounted those to the roof section, plus wanted to show some better pics of the paint results....

    I'm kinda digging the white roof and red. I wasn't sure how it would look, but i like it.

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  16. Sep 26, 2010
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2009
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    Well got my cage done, got it painted, and placed in the tub. Also placed the hard top on the tub also. I gotta bolt everything down yet, but at least it's looking more Jeep-like.

    Thanks to John for lending me two additional arms and shoulders on the install. I know, I know the windshiled ain't black but with the later windshield (YJ), and the later hard top style, I don;t think the windshield would look "right" black, it looks better body color. The cage is a cream white, it's a nice contrast to the white roof of the hard top.

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    Last edited: Sep 26, 2010
  17. Oct 1, 2010
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
    Joined:
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    Picked up some new to me (from CL) aluminums wheels, older style 10 spokers, kinda like a cross between an H2 wheel and a "dukes of hazard turbine/hellcat". I'll post pics when I get my tires mounted. Still himming and hawing over 31's, 32's, or 33's......

    And yes, I'm mounting my spare to the roof, out of mind, out of sight, and gives me the option of running two racks in the back, a Rubi-rack, plus a lower rack, external storage needs, as interior space taking into account seating for 4, space is limited....
     
  18. Oct 4, 2010
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
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    Well I made a 31" test template to see tire size, and well, with how it looks, I'll be going with 31's and not 33's. Also is a pick of one of the wheels I picked up, and another is the little guy inspecting my work. Tore into the heater and decided, well and aftermarket HeaterCraft is gonna go in place of the factory unit. Even after reading the older upgrade ideas, it seems the stock unit leaves a bit to be desire. No sense in pouring money into the factory unit, and get minimal performance out of it. I'm kinda thinking of adding electric seat warmers since I'll be recovering my seats anyhow.

    If youy look close you can see the Chevy S10 non-power master cylinder. And yes, the rear mount for the front leaf springs, need some triangulation support for the outboarding.

    Also found out I need 1/4" spacers to clear the tie rod with the new-to-me wheels. and yes, they need some clean up and polishing.

    Order my exhaust system and electronic distributor, and my shop manual from Kaiser Willys today. Keep the cogs of the economy turning!

    I also tire into the doors for their re-do.

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    Last edited: Oct 4, 2010
  19. Oct 5, 2010
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
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    4,538
    Hey, I've got the same round piece of steel you have there on your bench. I was told its a roller bearing out of a boxcar/locomotive. Also, remember a 31" tire rarely measures 31"
    The makers like to think they do, even my 35" Ktawlers come up a little shy of 35.
     
  20. Oct 5, 2010
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
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    That round piece is a cap to a flat black rattle can. Nice try though, yeah the 31's are a tad over 30. But looking at my template, with a few inches of flex the rear corners will be into the tires. With the width of the axles, the tires stick out of the wheel well pretty far. I'll probably be adding a set of stock CJ flares to compensate, they'll stick past those almost a couple of inches. I think WMS to WMS is 59 inches if I recall correctly.

    Glad you posted, it was looking like I was talking to myself the last few posts......
     
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