11" swap seal question

so i was going to order a hub puller and anything else i needed to do an 11" swap on the 2a...and i thankfully (before i ordered)discovered I have a d44 out back (prob from an m38 I dont have a parts manual for the 44 compared to the d41...do i need any seals or anything for behind the backing plate and axle tube flange? or is it just unbolt/bolt on..the swap page didnt have much on the rear

posted here because all of you have d44..and this forum gets more traffic

 

If I'm not mistaken and this is a offset flanged D44 it should have a seal at the end of the axle tube. There is no seal on the backing plate it self. I may be mistaken but that is how I remember mine being.

 

its offset to the pass side..9" drums....

 

Flanged or tapered axle?

 

i highly doubt its a mid-70 to 71 d44...especially with the 9" brakes that appear to have O.D. paint on the back, also the left thread studs.....but..any easy way visually to check...to be sure...

 

The pumpkin looks like the offset 44 the drums look quite a bit different than mine do. Do you have a picture of the drum or with the drum off and a view of the axle. There should be a half moon hole in the axle to remove the backing plate. It should be the 6 bolts that are in your picture. That is the back side they have to be removed from the inside of the drum. Then you can pull the axle and there is a seal at the end of the tub. Or it might have a press on bearing then the seal rest on the axle and the bolt on flange holds the seal in. I not sure if I remember this correctly so if I am wrong please correct me it has been a while.

 

where does this go? just when i thought i wasnt confused
http://www.kaiserwillys.com/product/1039/willys_axleseals_gaskets

 

cant get the drum off..gotta get/order the puller which led to this quest....i'll get a pic of the front of the drum

 

That's what you should have. There's a shoulder on the hub that the seal bears against. The seal goes between the flange on the axle and the backing plate, I think (having never torn into a tapered axle). You're going to need to remove the hubs to install the backing plate - this requires a very sturdy puller.

 

yeah i knew about the puller...went everywhere...but couldnt rent one..only had the light duty..will be ordering one from kaiserwillys....
heres the drum


and a numbered pic

so one is the tube flange,2 is the outer oils seal with gasket, and 3 is the plate...is this correct?...the drum swap page should have a little more info ref the rears if replacing this seal is necessary

 

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78510&highlight=rear+axle+seal
http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69722&highlight=rear+axle+seal

 

again..thanks for the help..i have all the manuals,mechanics manuals,parts list, etc for the 2a..but nothing on the 3/5 etc.

 

ok,,after reading those threads now all i have to worry about is exactly what year 44 i have..ugh...this is turning into a pita.....gonna guess i have the early stlye...

you guys rock,,

 

1 = axle housing flange
2 = axle bearing retainer plate
3 = backing plate

you may find axle shims behind the backing plate
keep everything in order as you take it apart (assuming it's correct to begin with)
might be a good time to look at the axle bearings as well.

 

doesn't matter what year
tapered axles are all the same, with the exception of that outer seal difference.(and spline count)
you will take notes/photos as you disassemble
really, don't worry about the year, it's a non-issue.

 

warm fuzzies to all.......thanks guys..gonna whip out the card and wait for the brown santa

 

Now that I saw the pic of the drum I was wrong thanks for the correction.

 

ok,,one last question on the swap subject..take the old drums and have the swedged studs removed, remove hub..press in new studs and then when all put together drum just slides on right...

 

correct
put in later studs
72 and up
non-swage type