Bestop Tiger top install questions ??

Hey guys.
I have started to install my top on my Jeep project and I have a couple of questions. I have a new Omix body and my project came with a pretty descent shape Tiger top. The previous owner said he only had the top on a couple of short times. I have never seen my Jeep assembled as I bought it in pieces so I am unclear of the top installation. I do have a copy of the Bestop instructions but they are kind of vague as well. Question number one is I have seen a number of CJ3As as well as M38 jeeps with the Tiger top and it looks like guys are installing the front edge of the top in the factory top channel on the top front of the windshield. The instructions say to install the aluminum channel strips along the top edge. I had a quick look at installing the top front edge into the factory channel but it looks like it will be too short to fit in there properly. It seems like the Bestop pieces would fit best. If that is the case I will likely install the Bestop pieces and remove the factory style one below it.


Factory style channel is quite a bit lower.

Here are the Bestop pieces.

My next question is the door installation. I drilled the upper door opening rod holes in the center of the corner like it said in the instructions but it seems like the fabric that velcro's around it is way loose and the door looks like it will close below it. I don't expect a tight fit but it seems like the door will not seal much at all up top. Is the door supposed to close against the rod.




If not should I try to get the door to close as tight as possible to it? I am only just getting started with the install so I can make changes pretty easily if needed. If anybody has any other added tips and insight from experience with these tops it would be appreciated.
Greg

 

Greg, i just put a tiger top on my B. i used the stock channel on the windshield frame, i think you'll be fine. it may look like it will be too short, but that fabric streches alot. on the doors yours are different. my channel wasent on the frame i had to add the kits channel pieces. i'll go snap some shots on my doors.

 

That's good to know that I can fit it to the original channel across the top. It seems like it will be too far forward but I am sure I have seen a few rigs setup that way in pictures. What did your door openings end up like across the top of the door along with the rod that goes across the door opening to the windshield frame?
Greg

 

here ya go. hope it helps.


here i lifted the outer flap up to exspose the inner flap.(sounds dirtyR))

the door rod is directly under my thumb, you can see the width of the inner flap.

i dont have the doors on right now, but they fit against the inner flap and just under the outer flap, mabey a 1/2 inch. if you need more shots just let me know.

 

Thanks for the quick response. Now I am even more confused though. It looks like the front of your top has a extra piece sewn on it to fold around the front of the windshield. There is a obvious seem sewn right at the top corner adding a piece to fold over the front. My top is actually for a 2A but I assumed it would work on a 3A/M38 windshield frame as the extension they give you for the 2A windshield frame makes the top of the 2A windshield frame a similar shape to the 3A frame. I was told they were the same tops other than the extension from the local bestop dealer here. I will make it work one way or another. The top of the door opening is looking similar to mine though. Thanks.
Greg

 

ya you know with the 2A windshield its gonna be a different front piece. cuz the windshield being able to open and close. thought you had a 3A top i guess. i would say if you dont have that extra piece of fabric like i have then you'll have to mount those extra channel pieces to get it to hold down... and on the door deal they might be different too, again because of the different frames between the 2A and 3A...

 

I am going to mount the window channel at the top and it should work fine. I still would like to see how other peoples doors are fitting across the top. I would like to know if I should move the upper door rod? Should the top of the door fit against the rod or below it? Does the top of the door seal against anything? Thanks.
Greg

 

The "rain flap" should extend over the top of the door.

 

Thanks Duffer. That's what I am looking for. I guess I will move my door up a bit before I put the lower hinge on. Does your door close against the upper door opening bar then? I will get the windshield channel on and the rest of the top on then work on the doors.
Greg

 

Yep, top cord door frame is almost directly over top frame member. Not sure I am the only one that had problems with the top frame members (above the doors) pulling out of the windshield holes or not, but I had to add an extra tension strap from the front bow to the footman loop on the windshield frame to keep everything where it's supposed to be.

 

Has anyone ever switched from a kayline top to a tiger top? Are the wire frames for the doors interchangeable? Are the bows interchangeable? snaps spacing etc?

 

I am still not too sure how to make this top fit. I screwed the bestop channel to the top of the windshield because the cj2a top will not reach the 3a/m38 top windshield channel. It looks like that should work. I had to curve the outside edge to roll down the corners of the windshield. Do you just slip the sewn in plastic edge into the channel or do you fold the fabric over once the push it in the channel? It doesn't seem all that secure just pushed in the channel. There is a snap to go on either end though. I am still unsure what to do with the door as well. If I lift it up into the hinges enough to close against the upper horizontal rod it ends up with a ton of preload. I can bend the door frame to fit but when the door is that high it leaves a gap at the bottom opening? Can I just have the door close just under the upper horizontal rod. The fabric that raps around the horizontal rod seems quite loose as well. If it is velcroed in place it looks like their is an extra inch or tow of fabric. I am going to start putting the snaps on the body today, any clever suggestions on getting them fitted? When I replace this top I will make sure to order the 3A/M38 top so it fits the windshield frame better. According to Bestop that is the only difference between the flatty tops. They say it should fit fine just by using their channels across the top of the windshield. I would like to fit the top nice and tight as I am sure I will be using it a lot with our liquid sunshine of Vancouver B.C. Sorry for all the questions but I am new to soft tops and the directions are terrible. Bestop is not a whole lot of help either. Thanks.
Greg

 

Mine has a lot of extra material on the horizontal velco closure above the doors also. The nylon insert on the top front edge should just push up into the channel-the tension on the top holds it in place and why it is important to get the windshield in the correct position with respect to the rear of the body (and also why you may be having problems with a 2A top and 3A windshield). I have never any of my tops pull out of the channel and the current one on the 3B has been tested at some relatively high speed. The bottoms of my doors lap the body by about 1/2"-not much.

To mark the snap locations, install the snaps on the tail gate (they may fit in the existing holes), close the velcro on the vertical rod behind the doors and with the rear zippers zipped and the rear bow at the height you want, just pull it down even and mark. I use a double square to get the vertical distance even around the body rail. You want the top snug but not too tight or it will be a bitch to get on when it is cool and the snaps will not hold well (speak from experience here). Not sure any of this helps.

John

 

Thanks Duffer. That is some useful info. I do have the windshield set to the dimension they want. I think with the Bestop channel at the top of the windshield the top should fit right like bestop says it will. I will put some snaps on today and follow the directions from you. I think it will all work out OK. I don't have any previous snap positions as this is a new repo body. Nothing stopping me now
Greg

 

None of them would have been in the right locations anyway. Seems like the snap locations is something that ought to be standardized between manufactures but isn't. Not even the same between old Bestop and new Bestop-I had to plug/fill/paint all the old snap locations-pain in the a$$. I actually liked my old top better than the new version.

 

Well I got the top fitted. I had a buddy come over and give me a hand. He has owned a couple of soft top Jeeps so I figured he would have a better idea what to do. Despite being told otherwise, one thing I know now, is that a 2A top is definitely different then a 3A/M38 top. Not only does the top not have the extra piece, shown in the Photos above, that folds around the front edge of the windshield and into the channel above the glass, but the top of the 2A windshield is 2 inches narrower than the 3A/M38. The whole top above the doors is 2 Inches too narrow as well. That is why my doors would not fit right to the upper door opening bars. The 2A windshield is 2 inches shorter as well but Bestop gives an extension piece to add onto the windshield to make it the same highth. Well I do know that these Jeeps are not built with the precision of a Swiss watch, so I just did a few modifications and adjustments to make it all work. Seeing as I am way over budget on my project, I know there is no way I will be buying a new top to fit the M38 body. This top is going to work OK. Thanks for the info from you guys. The pictures and descriptions helped clarify why things weren't working out right. At least I may have sorted out what might need to be done if someone has to do this again. I will post some pictures of what I had to do when I get the chance.
Greg

 

Here are some of my installed pictures.



The drip rail doesn't quite cover the top of the door right but it will work. The top is made to fit a 2" narrower window. I got the doors to fit pretty good though. I had to move the upper door opening rods inward an inch on each side to make it work OK.


The top fitment is not perfect but I think it will work and I am happy with it. Thanks again for the help with top.
Greg