Bad Master Cylinder???

Here's a trick I used that I learned from my off road bikes..........
I EMPTY the resiviour on the master cylinder of fluid, keep the top off.
I use a old turkey baster and a long clear tube, maybe 2 feet long.
I force the tube on the end of the baster.
It'll be like a 1/4" from lowes.
Then I find a smaller one to fit INSIDE the tube at the other end.
This should be a tube that will fit SNUG on the wheel cylinder bleeder, (I think mine is a fuel line from a bike).
I fill the baster and the tube, making sure ALL the air is outta the tube, hence the clear to see what's going on.
I slip the tube over the bleeder, and crack the bleeder open, (I take the bleeder out and make sure the hole is open).
I use the baster and FORCE fluid BACK INTO the master cylinder.(careful you don't over fill and dribble all over!!
I keep the baster UP above the master and wheel cylinder, (hence the LONG tube, most times I'm not under the jeep.
When the baster starts to get low, pop the top off refill and push on.
You gotta becareful, as the fluid will screw up the baster top after a while, but they are cheap.
I also found a BIG seringe that was made to bleed brakes years ago, but it met a crushing end under a bike.
It doesn't make a lot of PSI, but does work well!
This is called reverse bleeding.
Sometimes you get air WAY up the line close the the master and it takes a LONG time to get it to the wheel cylinder bleeder.
I've used this for a long time, actually years ago I had a tank that I put air into and pressure bleed systems this way.
Just a idea!
Joe
Holy smokes! It works just the way it's supposed to!

 

My brakes seem to drag and it dawned on me that I have the front brakes hooked to the front reservoir and the rears to the rear one, I'm going to change it around and see if it has an effect.