Locknuts

Getting ready to put on the shackles Ppilotmike was kind enough to sell to me. I picked up some new grade 8 bolts and two kinds of locknuts - pinched grade C locknuts and grade 8 nylon locknuts.

Any thoughts on which is preferred? The used bolts mike sent with the shackles were grade 5 and had pinched type locknuts. My current grade eight bolts ahve the pinched type locknut as well.

 

My Dad worked for a company that makes nylon insert nuts. He'd use them on everything.

 

Joel: As long as it is not around heat, I prefer the ny-locks. Good Luck!! Glenn

 

I've run the nylocks on mine for 6 years, never had one loosen up

 

Joel: For shackles and other non heat related stuff, nylocks should work fine.

For my Bumper mount I chose the crimped ones on grade 8 1/2" bolts, since I hope to never take them off.

Nylocks work fine, but remember, the specks say they should only be used "once". You can "re-stake them" if your cheep!

 

I use nylocks for everything that does not get hot. If I reuse them (I usually do because I'm too lazy to stop and go the hardware store) I just put a dab of blue locktite on them.

 

are the pinch ones also known as "metal lock nuts"?

 

I think the metal ones are called stop nuts or friction locks. I used Nylocks on my shackle bolts.

 

lock nuts

I use the pinch type every day on the aircraft you fly in! If they keep you flying safe, there good enough for me! :hurrican:

 

I was told at a bolt supply house that nylox nuts are only grade 5 and that friction lock nuts are grade 8. Are they correct? Judging by your comments they are not.

Karl

 

The pinch nuts were identified as Grade C. Googling for Grade C locknuts leads me to believe they are equivalent to Grade 8. The nylocks were identified as Grade 8.

 

Seems to me most the lock nuts you see from the factory, which granted isn't that many, but they are usually the pinched metal ones. I don't think I have ever seen a nylock on OEM application. Now, does this mean if they are good enough for OEM they should be good enough for all, or is OEM just going to the cheapest bidder? I don't know, but I kinda lean towards the good enough for OEM good enough for me...
Personally, most times I use a washer and lockwasher, regular nut. Shackles are a perfect example of when you do need a positive lock nut, because you aren't torquing them down...but even then you could drill the bolt, and use a castle nut and cotter pin. Seems a cotter pin would be cheaper than a new nylock nut every time if it was on an application that was taken apart for service often. Am I off subject??