Looking at a 73 CJ5

I have found a 1973 CJ5 that hasn't been used for the past couple of years, but moved under its own power to where it is now(about 4 hours from me).

I need some help in asking the current owner questions about this rig, before I pick it up. All I know is that it is supposedly a 1973, surface rust, with a V8.

What information should I be looking for?

Thanks.

 

Price?

Those V8 Jeeps are too dangerous to drive. If you ship it to me, I can make sure it never hurts anyone R)

 

The first thing to ask is--can you get it started?
If you can't start it and move it under its own power, I would question why the Jeep was parked.
I have seen many ads stating, ran when parked. This does not say much.
If you can't start the Jeep, it is time to negotiate on the price. Remember, you can always pay a little more for one that is in running condition, or at least for one that will start and run.
Sometimes you will be fooled by something that has been standing, and it will start with a little help.
I bought a J-truck that had been standing for 22 years, and was able to start it. Turned out to be OK.

 

The price, seriously, is excellent just for the parts. So starting or not, it's a good deal.

But regardless, I'd like to know what else I should look for, to know how good of a deal this might be.

 

lol. R)

 

Some more info:

- small v8 (that's the 304, right?)
- gas filler has been moved?
- rust holes in floorboards

Pictures are a no go as he is on dialup.

 

Ok, the first things I would look at is -
1) does it run and drive? Are there serious mechanical problems?
2) how much rust? Rusted through floor boards are common, and Jeep bodies are comparatively easy to fix, but rust can be so bad that the body is collapsing over the frame. No rust is best, but a few rust holes and some surface rust might be ok, depending on your skills and ambitions. Floorboards and hat channels (between the floors and the frame) are common locations of rust, and are fairly easy to fix. Realize that a proper floor repair usually requires the body to come off of the frame.
3) frame cracks are common. Look for cracks around the spring hangers and where the front crossmember meets the frame. Again, fairly straightforward and not expensive to fix but that has to be tempered with how much you can do and want to take on.
4) completeness. Some parts for the 72-75 models are difficult to impossible to find.
5) originality. The more original the better, unless the Jeep has some accessories that you really want.

Otherwise it's just like any other car.

 

1. Some electrical problem is keeping it from starting, according to the current owner, as told by the previous owner. A GM HEI should fix that.
2.Floorboards I know are rusty. He told me he wasn't sure whether they only needed patching or replaced.
3.Thanks, good to know.
4.Looks to have original tires.
5. No clue.

 

Take a hard look under that tub if the floor is rotten then the channel under it may also need replacing and the body bushings replacement parts from toledo cost a fortune and steel to do your own is climbing every day I have a 73 .when I got it it was more rest than anything but it ran pretty good. 700.00 to purchase 6000 later I'm still making payments in parts. Anybody got some blue paint I can have?

 

Is there anything I should do when I get it, out of the normal replacing fluids, plugs, etc? Anything specific to an Intermediate?

 

Okay, please keep in mind that Jeeps in general, along with every other type of desirable vehicle, are just not as plentiful up here as down south. Also, when looking at these two pictures I have been sent, that it is worth more than the asking price in parts alone. It has been parked at a lake for the past two years, as evidenced by the dirt on the hood.

Tell me everything that you might see, that I might not. (funky roll bar doesn't count, it's a boat launcher. )

So here goes:

 

Gas filler looks to be original to me, though it looks to stick out more than mine for some reason. Has extra tail lights. Hard top doesn't look as rotten as I'd expect for your location. Maybe the Jeep was spared road-service and winter salt? Original spare tire carrier with reflector.

If floorboards have holes hat channels are probably also decayed. Might be candidate for frame-off refurb but looks like it's a bit too far along to spend a weekend making it road legal. Depends on your goals but it isn't too bad given your location.

 

Hard to say much from these pictures... doesn't look too bad, though pictures usually make cars look better than they are.

I'd look closely at the cowl and windsheild around the windsheild. Usually the cowl area is in pretty good shape, but this Jeep looks like it had lots of debris sitting on it for a long time. The debris holds water and could cause problems in the cowl/windshield area. Rust-through in the area under the doors is pretty common. Fenders are fairly easy to source for these, since they are the same as the later CJ Jeeps - rust in the drivers side fender may be a problem.

The hard top looks in pretty good shape - a top will keep water out of the interior, and the interior floors should be in good shape. If you have rust through, it's likely from road salt attacking the underside of the floors. Parking on wet dirt causes rust, especially if there are plants - they give off a lot of moisture.

Unless there are big surprises, I'd expect you could drag it out, change the fluids and try to start it.You might luck out and be able to drive it after a few days work. Body will need some work, but I'd guess it's not too bad - will need some patch panels, significant prep for new paint, maybe a new tailgate and a new fender. Lose the boat rack... looks quite original except for the rack and hand winch.

It may be inexpensive, but are you willing to trade your time and effort for the cost of a better Jeep? I'd certainly save this one, but for most people, a better and more expensive starting point would make more sense. Typically the more you spend up front, the cheaper the restoration is in the long run. Plus, such projects often do not get completed - people lose interest or get discouraged, situations change, etc. ... and incomplete project cars sell for very cheap.

If you want it, I'd suggest you fix it up just enough to drive it, and then consider your options.

 

Thanks guys. The plan is to get it running first, then consider other options. Save it, IOW.

As for road salt, it's not used here in Alberta, although that doesn't mean the vehicle is actually from here. It could have been registered and come in from anywhere. It's also very dry up here in Alberta....humidity is half of what it is on a coast.

We'll have better pics once I get it.

 

BTW, is that what they call "Daisy" yellow?

 

I think it is Daisy Yellow. I have a yellow SuperJeep and it's definitely daisy yellow. Right side of tub looks brighter than my paint, but hood and other stuff looks about right for faded paint. My paint is badly faded too, though. SuperJeeps were 1973 models so it's almost certainly the same color if your paint is original.

 

it's been used to launch boats...Drain the axles and check the berings odds are axles have more water than fluid

 

Yellow fades badly. Looks too bright for Daisy Yellow though ... but it could be. Check the paint code on the VIN plate under the hood. All the fleet colors were available from the factory too, so it could be paint code 81 Transport Yellow. Pretty common for dealers to order Jeeps in fleet colors like black, orange and yellow.

 

I'll check the axles and Vin when I get it...thanks.

 

Hey you didnt check the axles when you got it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dunl Its G.

Guys this poor ole girl has ummm uhhh more then minor rust holes in the floor boards up front. A hole on each side is about the size of a basketball. along with a rusted out brake booster. The air filter housing was off when we got there. Looks like it has been in the back seat area for some time. there was even rust laying on the heads and on the intake. Rad has had a hole punched through it too..