Siezed clutch?

Some background -
This winter, I removed the F-head, T-90, and Dana 18 as an assembly to allow easier access to replace the chassis wiring. I re-installed the unit and decided to install the A.A. chain clutch linkage kit - here is where it gets interesting......

The clutch pedal has free play and the throw-out bearing is moving slightly on the input shaft - I verified by looking thru the inspection plate on top of the bellhousing - but the clutch fingers will not depress - I thought that it was a leverage issue, so I forced the clutch pedal down and watched as the left front of the tub lifted away from the frame -

The engine/trans and t-case were not separated at all, the assembly was inside my garage the whole time, and it was working just fine when I removed it from the Jeep -

HELP!!
Thanks
Chris

 

MY quick guess would be your new chain linkage is hitting the tub somewhere. That would be the only reason I could see the tub lifting, rotational lift. Stock linkage can't do that IIRC. Get a helper to push the pedal while you get your noggin under there for a looksee.

 

Clutch linkage is not hitting the tub at all - chain is free to move. The best I can figure it, the clutch pedal (overhead pedals, by the way) pushes the main rod down, goes to a pivot point mounted on the frame which then pulls another longer rod towards the front of the jeep - originally, this was attached to the stock pivot tube assembly which then pulled on the clutch release cable and fork. -

 

Sounds like something binding up in that cross shaft between the frame and tranny/tc.
Or the other pivot point.:?

 

The wierd part is the pedal moves freely when disconnected, the chain does not come in contact with anything, and I can see the release bearing and fork moving when I push on the pedal by hand - everything stops dead when the release bearing comes in contact with the clutch pressure plate.
The suggestion has been made that there was some water present when I parked it, and because it has been sitting for so long, the pivot points on the pressure plate have rusted solid - I'm going to remove and disassemble it this weekend -

 

Before you tear into it, I would try starting it in low range, first gear, with the pedal all the way to floor. One of two things should happen: the clutch breaks free, and you're in business, or, you go down the road leaving your foot on the pedal. Gently blip the throttle once in a while, and I do mean gently! One of two things will happen: the clutch will break free, or you turn around and go home for another suggestion. I usually went wheeling after it broke loose. Done it lots of times over the years.

 

I would try that, but my carb is apart for a rebuild, and I have to remove the transfer case anyway (I am swapping from a 26 tooth to a 29 tooth so I can install my overdrive). I figure I'll drop the transmission and transfer case as a unit, split them on the floor to swap in the 29 tooth gears - and pull the pressure plate off of the flywheel at that time.
Maybe it did rust together over the winter......we'll see.....

 

O.K.
I removed the transmission and transfer case tonite - when I pulled the pressure plate off, the 3 release fingers moved when I loosened the bolts to the flywheel - so apparently not siezed...but the pilot bushing was not in the flywheel - it was laying loose behind the clutch disc.
The next thing I noticed was the clutch pedal & linkage seemed to be binding (with everything disconnected from the transmission). When I forced the pedal last weekend, I apparently bent the rod that goes from the clutch pedal down thru the firewall and attaches to the pivot bracket on the frame - Does anyone have a picture of an unbent example, or a decent used one out there? Mine is bent pretty badly......

 

http://www.tellico4x4.com/images/products/omix-clutchlinkage.jpg

The rod kinda looks like #5 in this picture........