Engine Discovery

After decyphering my serial number, I learned that my 304 is NOT the original engine in Bella. It turns out that she had a 232 in her. I know very little about this engine and have been surfing through the info. on the site and haven't found too much.

Anyone know of a good site with some info.? Also since it was a 232, I guess I might not have a T-15 like I always thought. What came with a 232? Did these also have the Dana 20 transfer?

Also I found out her original color! Silver Green Poly! Anyone know how I could get a chip of this to show a paint shop so I could get the color re-done?

Thanks all!

 

My originally had the 232, T15 and Dana 20 also. I sure don't miss the 232 and T15.

 

I think the 6cylinder jeeps had the fuel line run down the right side frame rail and the 8's were down the left, good fast way to tell if they were converted, correct me if I am wrong, I have been wrong before!

 

The 232 I thought came with a T-14 like the 258. Any paint store should be able to provide you the color. Just tell them the year and the color name and you should be all set. Thats all I had to do.

 

Yes, all 232/258s 72-75 came with the T-14 or optional close ratio T18 - no T15s. The T14 isn't strong enough to use with the 304 IMO. You can ID the T14 by the casting number T14A or 1302 in the case. A T15 will be T15 or 1307.

Jeep only used the Dana 20 or Borg-Warner 1305/1339 (Quadratrac, Wagons and J-trucks with an automatic) in 1974.

You can see the paint chips online here: http://autocolorlibrary.com/cgi-bin/search/searchpic.pl?1974-jeep-pg01.jpg

 

Thanks for the info guys. Tim, are you saying that if I find out the T-14 is still on, I'm gonna run into some trouble?

 

I think you are right about it being a T14 but 1972's definately came with the Dana 20.http://www.jeeptech.com/xfer/d20.html

 

The t-14 in the 72 and newer jeeps had a different length main drive gear shaft, so if you are looking for one, keep that in mind.

The parts are available to change the main drive gear if you got a t-14 that was behind the v-6, but why bother when you can get a transmission from a straight 6 with a little searching now that you know what to look for...

 

Well, maybe, depending on your driving style. The T-15 is stronger and you're less likely to break it. The T-15 is the strongest 3-speed available; if that's not sufficient, you'll need to step up to one of the HD truck 4-speeds like the T18.

Installing a T15 in the stock configuration should be easy, as such things go. I'd suggest you first check out the casting numbers on the side of your existing transmission before you go any further though.

 

I'm pretty sure this is a Dana 20, but I just wanted to verify with you guys. I don't have any shots of the tranny yet, but I'm going to get some.

 

Yep. Thats a 20.

 

Thank you very much.

The shift lever kinda flops around, but I can still switch to 4-wheel drive. However, it's seemed like when I'm in 4WD not that much power is getting to all four wheels. I HAVE to stay in 1st gear on the beach and it seems I have to give her way more gas than I should (which has been causing her to overheat).

I'm thinking about just pulling the transfer case off and doing a rebuild. I've never done a rebuild on something so complex, would this t-case be a good first project for a newbie? :?

 

Ist not getting power to all wheels because it has open differentials or something else?

 

Your guess is as good as mine! R) LOL Sorry, I'm finally getting serious and am exposing my complete ignorance here. I thought I knew what I had, but apparently the PO lied to me about a lot.

Here is the front diff (I need to get a front shot):


That cut off tube on top barely stays in place. Have any idea what it is? :?

Also while we are at it... he told me I had a 304, but now that I found out a lot isn't what he said it was, I want to make sure. Is this a 304?

 

Most jeeps had open differentials meaning only one wheel will spin. Of course it would also be the wheel with the least traction. You have to install a locking differential to fix that. For starters do the rear. You can leave the front open. The tube is for ventilation. If you drive in deep water connect a hose to it and run it higher.

 

I can't tell 304 but it looks like an AMC motor.
Have you tried lowrange on the beach? It might be your R&P gears are too high(numerically low) for hi-range. Also and I am sure you know deep sand kills power, the ZJ did horribly down south because all it is was deepstuff so I ran in lowrange all week and it did just fine capable of about 25MPH before I felt like I was pushing it too much.
Sure wish I could have met up with you when I was down there.

 

The engine size is cast on the side of the block near the engine mount. 304, 360, or 401

 

Well hopefully we can next month. I should be in town that weekend. I'm gonna go check the engine now.

 

On the tcase rebuild. Its easy. The hardest part is setting the tolerance on the output shafts and that took me about an hour each on my first time around. If you want to familiarize yourself head over the Novak site ( http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/transfer_case_components.htm ). The have gobs of info. If you want or need a t15 I have one with a mere 44000 mi on it from my 74 (i swapped out to a t18 ) that I will sell fairly cheaply. I also have the dana 20 too with the shifter linkage thats in great shape. As an offtrack thought, the cj style of shifter in my experience does not flop around too much you might have a j series tcase. They flop around alot. Does your shifter move linearly or does it shift in a u?

Karl

 

As long as the engine is running we can check it.
I can tell you our 4.0L has the torque to run in the sand just not the HPs, with that 304 in a lighter CJ5 I would think you would be fine, it might just be a gearing issue if you have something like 2.52 gears or something like that.