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Removing F head exhaust valves

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by bswindale, Jul 24, 2006.

  1. Jul 24, 2006
    bswindale

    bswindale New Member

    Sister Lakes, MI
    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2006
    Messages:
    3
    Good Evening, every one! I am brand new to this forum, and have sort-of inherited a 1955 CJ5 with F-Head 134. This jeep has not been run in about 6 years. Finding no compression on #2, I pulled the head and found #2 exhaust valve stuck open. The stem is rusty. I have tried to use a spring compressor to remove the valves, but can not get the roto cap retainers to move on the valve stem to release the keepers. This is true on all 4 valves. Is there a trick to removing these valves?
    This will probably be the first of many questions!
     
  2. Jul 24, 2006
    runnamuck

    runnamuck look out!

    hickory, nc
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2005
    Messages:
    223
    not really any tricks, like all the other engines out there. you planning on a rebuild or just lapping in a new valve? if rebuilding just wack it with a hammer. guide is probably shot anyway. a good rebuild kit will have new valves and guides, and machine work will take of the seat. if just lapping a new valve, try penatrating oil.?. that might work.
     
  3. Jul 24, 2006
    rat_ranger

    rat_ranger New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2006
    Messages:
    19
    use a pickle fork to lift the valve up and give it a good whack. the picklefork will take the impact better than a spring compressor, dont ask how i know.
     
  4. Jul 24, 2006
    runnamuck

    runnamuck look out!

    hickory, nc
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2005
    Messages:
    223
    R) visons of flying shrapnel formally know as a spring compressor.
     
  5. Jul 24, 2006
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Messages:
    4,275
    If the valve is stuck in the open position, you will never get the locks out of the keeper, there just isn't enough clearance. Turn the engine over with a ratchet on the front damper bolt, until the lifter for that valve drops back down into its bore all the way. The soak the offending valve with a GOOD penetrant like KROIL or PB-Blaster and try using a block of wood on the valve head with a mallet to drive the valve back down into its closed position. Once the valve is closed, you will have no problem using the valve spring compressor to compress the spring/keeper so the locks will come out.

    BTW- Make sure you use shop rags or paper towels to plug the oil drainback holes in the lifter valley, or I GUARAN-DAM-TEE one of the locks will end up in the oil pan. AMHIK. :oops:
     
  6. Jul 26, 2006
    bswindale

    bswindale New Member

    Sister Lakes, MI
    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2006
    Messages:
    3
    Success! Sorry about the late response, I had trouble logging back into the site. I had tried all those suggestions previously except using a GOOD penetrating oil. I soaked the retainers, waited a while, then using a pickle fork substitute (wonder bar) I raised the valves and whacked them with a 2X4. Just needed a bigger hammer. The valves are in pretty good shape, just need to clean the stems up a little. The engine only has 14,000 miles, so should'nt be too worn. Thanks for the help.
     
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