67 Cj5 Build Thread By A Rookie

So here is what I learned and what I would do differently so far with my iteration of the Tommy B rotisserie. Thanks to Tommy B (not sure about his handle on this forum) for starting the detailed thread and thanks to @PieLut for making detailed drawings and a cut list here.

First, if you use 2x2 when possible, you can eliminate the need for 2 sticks of 1 3/4 and 1 stick of 2x2. My iron place only sells by the 20' stick, so I have 19' of 2 1/2 round if anyone needs it! I also flipped my angie brackets at the base of the stanchions upside down. This traps the 2x2 legs and takes a little rotational stress off that joint IMO. I used standoffs in front like @truckee4x4 did since the front isn't perfectly smooth like the back. I was worried that this would make the construct less stiff in front, but with 6 points of attachment, I think it is fine. I used 5/16 coupling nuts and drilled out the ID to 5/6 so the bolts slid through. That was the cheapest option I found.

What I would do differently:
1. I think one weak link is the 1 3/4 tube that spans the two stanchions. I would use a 2x2 and put a 1 3/4 internal coupler in the middle to connect them.
2. Since I already have the 1 3/4 tube, I am going to make a coupling sleeve longer than 12". I also realized that it is a PIA to slide the sleeve across this butt "joint" to the perfect location unless you mark the end with a sharpie. I am going to do the same thing I do with trailer hitches which is weld a small piece of bar at the perfect spot on one of the 1 3/4s so when I slide the 2x2 sleeve into place, it has a hard stop at the perfect location.
3. I don't like the mismatch with the 2 1/2" outer vs 2" inner rotational points. I used 0.93 and there is too much slop. Black pipe would have been a better fit, or I could have brought out a pencil and done better math. I think it works fine, but is not as cherry as I would like.

 

I went to the Pismo Beach car show yesterday. Here is some jeep porn.

Today, I worked on repairing the clutch fork. The correct spec fork is apparently still not available. This fits and fill the throw out bearing nicely. I could have made it prettier but I thought it was better to err on the side of function. I’m sure someone will let me know if this looks bad!

I also made a damn good brisket!

 

I also started getting the tub ready to blast and paint. So nice to have the rotisserie! The only thing that looks buggered up is the transmission cover plate which was presumable modified when the SM420 was put in. I think the sequence of events is to worry about those panels after engine/clutch/TC/tranny are in and tub is back on. Then I can see what I need to fabricate.

I found several places where there were tire scrap cushions on the bottom of the tub without a hole for fastening to the frame. They were stapled into the tub - I’m not really sure how to staple pads into metal or whether this is even necessary.

 

I found the same exact thing on my 1970 when I pulled the tub for my build. The rubber stapled to the hat channels might be a factory thing.

 

I believe that it originally rested on the cross-member. Not sure how it is stapled but the piece under it looks welded/added on. I
used a piece of dense closed cell foam and glued it to the cross-member.

 

400# of blast media later….


200# to go!

I also hooked up my e brake cables to the rear drums, bought some paint, and cooked some ribs.

I have read a lot on bedliner - I don’t like the look of it in a jeep - but my paint shop has a clear bedliner you can add tint to to make it the same color as the rest of the jeep. I’m probably going to do that under the tub and in the fenders and then dilute it and use that in the bed and floor. The diluted product is still more durable than paint but less textured than typical bed liner.

 

Before I started sand blasting, I also got out the torch and practiced shrinking metal. There was a huge sagged area at the back of the bed where the aftermarket rear seat was bouncing up and down on an unsupported part of the bed. It is now mildly sagged.
Have any of you guys ever added an additional support sill under the bed? I wonder if that would interfere with the rear gas tank.

 

I got my engine back. New pertronix electronic ignition, new fuel pump, new water pump, new cam shaft. I think it looks great. I installed the engine mounts and started mounting the engine to the frame, but when I started letting tension off the lift, it sagged pretty far backwards. I realize that it does not have the rear support yet (still don’t have the clutch, tranny, or t case on).
I lifted the engine back up and am in holding pattern. Is this normal? Is this safe? Am I doing the wrong order of operations? I’m going to post this question on the tech page as well.

 

I think that’s normal. When removing the transmission from an “in service” drive train you always have to support the rear of the engine. In our jeeps, the transmission mount is part of the drivetrain’s support.

 

Gotta support the rear with a stick till the transmission is in place. You'll tear your motor mounts if you try letting the two of em carry everything.

Fwiw I've run a ratchet strap under the oil pan on mine but my oil pan is 1/8" plate.

 

New clutch day. LUK 01-029.

 

Please don’t stare. She hasn’t been naked in 56 years! 1000# of blast media later…

 

One little bruise on the rear. Mine looks like it's been in a train wreck compared to that.

 

New starter and alternator.

Patching holes in the tub.

 

I started patching bad welds in the wheel well, and I think it is time to turn into a cancer surgeon. Hopefully my tranny is done by the end of this week, so I can drop it in the jeep and have a full roller. Then I can swap my roller and my tub and have better access to my 220 mig welder. I’m going to try to figure out how to bend sheet metal without the right tools!

 

I got my gearbox back yesterday and installed it this morning. Seven months in the shop and a $1300 bill. It looks like all they did was replaced the seals and spray paint over all the grime. The shop owner said he inspected it and the gears were ok. I learned a $1300 lesson that nobody works on my jeep except me or my regular mechanic. I’m probably going to drop it, clean it, look inside it, redo the seals, and paint it, but I’m going to focus on the body for now.

 

Today, I rebuilt my power steering pump/reservoir and gave it a fresh coat of paint. I also painted the fan and power steering bracket. My paint booth is going to become my jeep parking space as I move the tub into my shop to get serious about the body work.

 

I have read a lot on bedliner - I don’t like the look of it in a jeep - but my paint shop has a clear bedliner you can add tint to to make it the same color as the rest of the jeep. I’m probably going to do that under the tub and in the fenders and then dilute it and use that in the bed and floor. The diluted product is still more durable than paint but less textured than typical bed liner.

Looks great Fresbone, if you use that clear tinted Berliner, let me know what you think about it and what brand.

Ter

 

A few years back I took my '58 to a shop near FAT. They rebuilt my LSD. They had to scrounge some parts and charged a fair price. Don't know if they are same ownership/management but worth a check if you need some more help with the transmission.

 

I will post when I get to that point. The product is called Shake n shoot.