Dana18 Advice

The transfer case I am talking about is out of a 67 CJ5, and that is the transmission I am not too worried about dumping bearings from.

I don't think Dale will need to remove his transfer case if all he is doing is replacing the output seal. I am just offering him one to practice with to learn how to rebuild one. That will give him the knowledge he will need if he later needs to remove his.

 

If that link worked, it would point to material from the G503 forum (military vehicles) about bearings and seals for the early CJ-2A. I looked on the wayback and it's never been archived. I presume the heading never pointed to anything.

The most accurate way to look up bearings and seals would be to find the part you want in the Jeep factory parts book and search either on RockAuto or generally with that part number as the keyword. Unfortunately the parts book that covers your Jeep is kind of expensive: https://www.faxonautoliterature.com/1962-1973-Jeep-CJ-DJ-and-Jeepster-Parts-Book-Reprint

If you have doubts, you can always ask here for a check or recommendation. Likely your transfer case has a tag with a Jeep PN. Novak also has a table that shows gear numbers in each variant of the transfer case. If you find your candidate part at RockAuto and it's known brand like National or Timken or SKF, ask here or search the net with that part number, looking for any indications that it's wrong.

 

If just replacing the oil seal, is it better to go ahead and remove the bearing cap and reseal the shims as well while I’m replacing the real oil seal? If so, it looks like it would be easier to pull the seal before removing the bearing cap. Is that true?

 

Looking at your photo, there doesn't appear to be enough lube going through your shim pack to actually consider it a leak. That said, getting the parking brake off is most of the work so I would go ahead and pull the cap and seal the shims. It is easier to pull the seal with the cap off as you are not dealing with the rear output shaft at that point.

 

There are a couple of you tube vids that walk you through rebuilding the D18. Check them out.

 

I have a DANA 18 and chased a small drip, replace the seal twice, finally cleaned the area with solvents and used a black light and found the speedometer cable connection was the source.

 

Thanks for the recommendation. I have already reviewed all of the videos listed in this thread and went through some additional ones I found last night.

I’ve also read through the TC section of my TSC several times trying to understand as much as I can. Just doing my homework.

since I am not planning (at least for now) on removing my TC from the Jeep, I wasn’t sure what the best approach for removing the seal would be.

Thanks duffer. This is what I was looking for. The parking brake is going to need to be redone as well.

 

Good to know! I’ll take a look at that as well. Thank you.

 

I’ve been trying to remove the rear driveshaft by removing the 4 nuts that connect the driveshaft to the e-brake so I can ultimately remove the e-brake.

I was able to get one nut removed but the other three are just turning the stud. I’m thinking of just cutting them off but wasn’t sure I’d be able to replace the threaded studs if I do that.

any suggestions?

 

They are regular (fine thread) bolts. There it s ridge inside that's supposed to hold the flats. Works fine until the nuts rust in place. There just isn't enough surface contact with that ridge so the bolt heads spin. Found a picture from when I had mine apart:


I don't think you have much choice but to cut them off.

 

As far as cutting them, I've had good luck using a cutoff wheel in a grinder, but cutting down from the top like you're trying to put a really deep screw drive slot in it - splitting both the nut and the bolt in the process. It's pretty easy to split the nut without damaging the parts you want to save.

 

Thank you. This is very helpful!

 

Before you cut them off, here’s something to try, I had same problem at one time.
Your bolts are loose (spinning), there isn’t much of a lip to hold them, so try putting pressure between bolt head and drum by pulling bolt as you try to loosen it. The objective is to close the gap between bolt head and drum so you catch the lip inside the drum. Worked for me. Usually there’s oil inside from leaky yoke seal, maybe not rust. Good luck.
Mark

 

Thanks. I’ll give that a try ​

 

They are actually special bolts made for that application. Like proper hub bolts, they have a solid shank going into the companion flange.

 

Can they be replaced?

 

Yes. In theory anyway. They are not a common item. Oldtime (Ken) should have the part number. Before you cut them off, do what CJMark suggested. That has always worked for me.

When you go get it apart, examine both the bolt heads and drum to see if they have been slipping when snugged up. You can pop a small weld bead on the side of the bolt head to salvage rounded ones.

 

Thank you.

 

I tried doing this and it worked for one of the bolts! Just couldn’t make it happen for the others.

so I ended up using fireball’s method of cutting them off. That was surprisingly simple and quick. Worked like a charm.

I now have the driveshaft separated and out of the way! Step one complete.

thank you all again for the help!

 

Good, I like Fireball's method as well. Once out, I have always put a little weld on the bolt heads to keep them captive.