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Dana 44 Wheel Hub

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Brislin06, Mar 12, 2022.

  1. Mar 12, 2022
    Brislin06

    Brislin06 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    Upon reassembly of my Dana 44 I noticed one of my wheel hubs was cracked. I found the new hub but its without the drum or lug nut studs. I can purchase a drum separately not a problem. My question is I have to find lug nut studs what is the procedure for pressing these parts together. Do the studs get pressed on the hub and pressed onto the drum. Can I use the old lug nut studs?
     
  2. Mar 12, 2022
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    How was your old attached ?
    Drum on inside or outside of the hub ?
     
  3. Mar 12, 2022
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    I don't know what year we're working on...
     
  4. Mar 12, 2022
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    If the drum was removed simply by pulling on the drum, you could re-use your old wheel studs.
    Yes, they simply press into the hubs and make their own splines into the hub metal during the process.
    Some folks hammer them in, or press them in.
    I would buy new studs if me and you could pop an old one out and take with you for a sample to the auto parts store.
     
  5. Mar 12, 2022
    Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

    East Tennessee
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    I have encountered CJ5 hubs where the drums are attached to the hub by swaged studs but this in NOT necessary and defeats the best feature of the outboard drums which is being removable to service the brakes without pulling the hubs. The M38A1 axles I have worked on did not have the drums swaged to the hubs and this is much better. Standard 1/2" wheel studs should work so long as the splines do not extend into the drum.

    New wheel studs should be pressed in to avoid distortion of the hub flange but they can be driven in with a BFH so long as the flange is supported. I have done this many times by laying the flange on top of my big bench vice with the jaws open just enough for the stud to be driven in. They can also be drawn in by using a spacer and tightening the lug nuts enough to pull them in, but this risks stripping threads.

    The hubs get "cracked" or split by improper installation. I can't count the number of ruined hubs I have encountered in the years I have worked on old Jeeps.

    The proper way is to put the hub on the shaft, align the key ways and then tap in the key, put on the washer and nut and then tighten the hub to spec, which is 150lbs or torque. In most cases the castle nut will not align with the hole for the cotter pin unless you are luckier than me. If so, tighten the nut until it aligns with the next notch, do not under any circumstance loosen the nut to align it.

    IMPORTANT: The way the hubs are split is when the key is put in the key way first and the hub put on over it. Nine times out of ten when the hub is tightened the key will be pushed ahead of the hub, and ramp up in the key way. When this happens and the hub nut is torqued to spec the key will act like a wedge and start a split in the hub that will get worse quickly. The metal is very thin at the back of the bore and splits easily.
     
  6. Mar 12, 2022
    Brislin06

    Brislin06 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    It’s a 69 cj 5 sorry about that, the drum
    Is on the outside I tried to force the drum over another hub by putting a wheel on it and cranking the lug nuts on but it would not mate to the other hub correctly. I suppose a press would work better
     
  7. Mar 12, 2022
    Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

    East Tennessee
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    The hub may have studs with the longer splines. You can cut those back to the hub with the proper swage cutter, or replace the studs with some with shorter splines. If you decide to cut the splines back this should be done in a drill press with the stops set to avoid cutting into the hub flange.

    If you press the drums onto those studs they will not be removable for servicing the brakes later on.

    I like to avoid having to pull the hub to service the brakes. Others may label me as "lazy" but my thought is pulling the hub is a lot more work than simply removing the brake drum.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2022
  8. Mar 12, 2022
    Brislin06

    Brislin06 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    Old pappy exactly what you said “swaged studs” that’s what they are because if you look close enough where they would attach to the drum they look “flared” out and that’s why the other drum would not attach. I could
    Try and take a picture but it maybe hard to see.I’m going to try autozone tomorrow for new studs and I have access to a press. Being that they were swaged studs do you see a problem pressing those studs out and just installing a regular stud to where a swaged stud was once installed. I have another hub from a donated vehicle.
     
  9. Mar 13, 2022
    OzFin

    OzFin Vintage Jeep Guy

    Michigan
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    If thy are swaged studs you will want to remove the swaged area of the stud before pressing them out. If you don't the hole in the hub can be damaged ( made oversized) and the replacements studs will not retain property in the oversized hole.
     
  10. Mar 13, 2022
    Brislin06

    Brislin06 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    What’s the best way to remove the swage a grinder and a chisel?
     
  11. Mar 13, 2022
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    use a cut off wheel to cut off the stud flush with the hub, then take a flap disk and smooth it out to ensure the mushroomed out portion of the stud wont oversize the hole.

    I have pressed out swaged studs adn ruined drums and wheel hubs, the above method works, but now I just throw away swaged hubs.
     
  12. Mar 13, 2022
    Brislin06

    Brislin06 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    Yeah I ruined a drum trying to pound it out with a BFH. I’m on the fence a new hub is only $65. Thank you to everyone that responded it was very helpful.
     
  13. Mar 13, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    47v6 likes this.
  14. Mar 13, 2022
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Might also find a hole saw that could work, but at 60 bucks for a new hub, even if they are from India, you're in deep for old maybe worn out stuff.
     
  15. Mar 13, 2022
    Brislin06

    Brislin06 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    I’ll shave it off and pound it out because I have to believe the extra hub I have is probably better quality than something of poor quality like you said
     
  16. Mar 15, 2022
    BD1

    BD1 New Member

    northern Maine
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    I use a Milwaukee 5/8” Hole Dozer hole saw in my drill press to cut the swage out of hubs. I did all four for a disc brake conversion on my 2a using the same $12 hole saw, but my drill press does have coolant.
     
  17. Mar 16, 2022
    Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

    East Tennessee
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    A swage cutter or even a hole saw will work, but you have to be careful to not cut too deep. The idea above about cutting the stud off and using a flap disc to remove the rest sound like a good idea to me. If you end up needing a hub I think I have two or three that are good, but if you want to buy a new one QTM has some that are made in Israel that are very good quality.
     
  18. Mar 17, 2022
    Brislin06

    Brislin06 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    Thank you for the offer oldpappy I had an extra hub laying around i used, I sliced the old ones off with a grinder and tapped them out. I finally finished putting the new studs in thats was not fun at all drawing them in with a lug it.
     
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