Dauntless 225 Fuel Lines

I am thinking of running AN Fuel Lines and fittings for my 1969 CJ5 rebuild. Has anyone done this on here or are the rigid steel lines better? If I run AN lines, what size and fittings do you all think I need. This is for a brand new build, no existing fuel lines and a mechanical fuel pump on the engine.

 

I have run Earls AN-6 lines to and from my throttle body to the tank. Steel (or preferably copper nickel) lines offer better longevity but are harder to shape and route.

nice overview here:
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1706-building-safer-fuel-lines-for-your-muscle-car-or-hot-rod/

 

Thanks for the link. For the connections to the fuel tank and the fuel pump do you just use AN clamps or are there special fittings that allow you to connect to the flared female ends of the fuel tank and fuel pump? I am totally new to using AN fuel lines and I honestly can say I am a little confused on how to get this setup going without ordering and returning parts (which I want to try and avoid).

 

I gotta say, this seems like overkill to me, unless you're building a show car & just want it to look cool.

 

If you go this route, there are a galaxy of fittings available to adapt between flared hard lines, to AN hose, and all types of thread. Summit racing has a good filter on their site where you can plan out what you need. When I was making a parts list I drew a diagram on paper and wrote down part numbers for all the adapters, and to keep it simple, I stayed within the Earl's product line. Summit was easy for me because they have a B&M store 40 minutes from where I live so when I got the wrong thing I could easily take it back and exchange. I chose to go this route because I installed EFI on my Dauntless.

Examples:

3/8" Hose: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-751066erl
Bottom of Tank Outlet: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-782206erl
Hose to EFI in/out port: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-750166erl?rrec=true
etc.

As colorjeepguy said above though, it is probably overkill for a stock Jeep. And you also need to be very careful where/how you route the hose around the headers and over the block. Back to steel lines - you can buy 225-specific formed fuel line kits and skip the bending and flaring. https://stores.partsdude4x4.net/fuel-line-kit-225-v6/

 

JMO - use the money you'd spend on AN stuff and buy a superior bending and flaring tool (one of each).

 

Definitely recommend the TGR flaring tool. Another better way for you to spend your money might be a poly fuel tank.

 

I have a poly fuel tank already. The main reason for switching to AN versus hard lines was for the flexibility of being able to route the lines where I want them instead of having to bend a ton of hard line (which I know I will mess up on). The pre-bent hard lines are nice but I think I can do AN for cheaper honestly.

I did make a mistake though in my previous post (late night post), the fuel pump and fuel tank both have MALE flared ends, not female. If I was going to do AN lines can I just use clamps on those or are there fittings?

 

Be very careful in your routing and securing of the lines if your using the stainless braided stuff, it will wear through anything it rubs against. Although I don’t tend to use them on my vehicles very much (mostly if I’m adding tranny or oil coolers), I do like 37 degree AN fittings for their ease of assembly/disassembly. I would also vote for running hard lines as much as possible. The copper/nickel stuff is easy to form and you should also be able to get aluminum. I think you will find that the cost will add up pretty quickly. Good luck with your project.
Tim

 

When I ran mine, my tanks, pumps etc had barded fittings on everything. Got a fitting that was barded on one end and a thread fitting on the other end so you can attach the 6an fitting to it. You will need a short piece of rubber hose to connect the fitting. I put a ball valve under my seat so I can shut off the fuel lines.

 

I used aluminum hardline along the frame with to AN bulkhead fittings then AN to hose adapter then rubber hose to the tank pickup and guel pump. I used all earls parts.

 

Can you not just connect the AN line directly to the barbed end of the sender/float in the fuel tank with a clamp on the end? Again, apologies for the possibly dumb question, this is all new to me.

 

You get a fitting that is Barded on one end and will accept AN fitting on the other end.

Go to Summit Racing web site look up Part # SUM-220186B. You will get a part like this

 

http://earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/81681/page-9
I have pictures of the fittings and how i installed them here.

AN line has a inner liner that i think is teflon and itwont get a good seal on the bard using a hose clamp.

Honestly it were to do it again i would just use a high quality rubber hoes like earls vapor guard or continentals ethenal resistant hose.

 

Can I use the the following fitting to connect the Earl's Vapor Barrier Line directly to the outlet on the fuel sending unit and directly to the inlet on the mechanical fuel pump?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644113

This is the fuel sending unit I have on my poly tank: https://stores.partsdude4x4.net/fuel-sending-unit-15-gal-tank-kit/

And this is my fuel pump on the engine: https://walcks4wd.com/fuel-pump-v6-used-with-return-lines-1967-1971_p_1743.html

 

With the earls vapor guard fuel hose no fittings or adapters are needed if you just run the hose from the stock sender to the stock pump. You just need 3/8 hose for the feed and 5/16 for the return side.

3/8 hose https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-761066erl

5/16 hose
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-761055erl

 

Perfect, I think that is what I am going to do. Nothing like nice new fuel line.