Early Non-vented Windshield Refurb/color

I hope your frame is ok. My factory frame looked really good on the outside until I removed the glass and seal. the little strip of metal that holds the glass seal 75 percent of it had all but rusted away, all hidden by the seal lip. At first I planned to repair the seal lip until I removed the hinges and looked down inside the frame tube. Absolutely no paint/primer, or rust proofing of any kind was used at the factory. So much rust inside I was surprised it had not rusted thru yet. I felt the tube integrity was so comprised that most of it's strength was probably gone. So I ordered an after market frame from amazon, came in a Rugged Ridge box. Fairly good quality. Took a lot of measurements to compare with my factory frame. Was surprisingly close, even the glass opening.
I turned the new frame with the hinge/tubing sitting up, taped all the thru bolt holes and poured a mixture of rust preventing primer into and fully flooded the tube. Let it sit a few minutes then drained out the excess and rocked it side to side every few minutes so any primer left inside could coat everywhere in there.

 

Well now you’ve got me all nervous!

I will say I wonder why mine is so darn heavy….? but I won’t know what’s going on until I pop the glass and have a look. Right now we’re in a pretty serious blizzard so my garage workspace is occupied by the wife’s car. No chance I’m going to put the windshield on sawhorses and pull the glass today or tomorrow.

 

I hope I did not discourage you, that was just what happened to me. My jeep spent some extended time outdoors years back. The little lip under the glass seal had apparently gotten water in there and it never dried out. Most of the damage was along the top of the window opening edge where the seal is facing upward. I think one could repair this with some strips of sheet metal and a good welder. But it might be more cost effective to just replace it especially if you have considerable rust inside the tube also. I know the aftermarket frames are questionable fit and quality so just have to decide on your own.
I have not tried to fit my new frame to the jeep yet or install the glass. I will try to post up with new opinions when I get that far along.

 

Lanolin, from sheeps wool. (Sheep never rust.)

 

What everyone is saying, the important thing is to make sure the old rubber is warm as you can make it either with Hot water or a heat gun to soften it as much as you can before you start. I bought new rubber and gasket for my Jeep had a local shop cut a new glass and put it in for around $100.00 after I painted my windshield frame. I had a grey glass put in, too dark, could not see through it with the top off, gave to a member with a hard top. I then had a green easy eye glass cut and installed, a lot better. I would recommend a new cowl gasket, tightened the windshield up took all the rattles out of the windshield. Good Luck.

 

color
JMO early jeep windshield should be painted Black

 

x2.

 

It's definitely going to be black on my 1966 Tux. And it will have some clear coat since the shop is using a two stage mixture and I'm going for useability not restoration. Hopefully it will be not super glossy.

 

Got a closer look at the Rust situation along the top arch. What do you guys think?





To me it would make sense to cut this piece off and try to source a replacement and then tack it on after it’s blasted.

 

More pics after I got it all apart:



can you source the arched fabric top slot piece new?

 

I cannot put my finger on the post but I do remember someone here buying one from some restoration parts dealer. Hopefully someone here can remember.

 

Hope so… the glass was actually chipped badly in a couple places so I need to replace it as well. Have to make a call as to whether to put the effort time and $ into refurbishing this frame or trying to find a replacement.

 

I bought a NOS top channel from Matt at QTM parts a year or two ago. It may have been the version from an M38a-1 that has a little more arch to it.
-Donny

 

I found the channel too. At Kaiser Willys, Kinda pricey though. Is about 1/2 the price of a whole new windshield frame with one already on it.



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• NOS Windshield Frame Retainer Channel Fits 52-68 CJ-5, 6, M38A1

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NOS WINDSHIELD FRAME RETAINER CHANNEL
FITS 52-68 CJ-5, 6, M38A1
Item # 8674522
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New Old Stock Windshield Frame Retainer

This is the retainer that is welded on the windshield frame. The retainer is the same square channel like the original.

Approx meausement is 57-1/4"

FREE SHIPPING ON THIS OVERSIZE CHANNEL

Fits:
55-68 CJ-5
55-68 CJ-6
52-66 M38A1

Note:
For windshield frames with top mounted wipers only.

Item # Price
8674522
$119.

 

Damn $119? No way. Do you think this one that Donny suggested would fit, or would it be too arched?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/273166238419?epid=2289255456&hash=item3f99fa02d3:g:yvoAAOSw6Jxa13Wq

 

Yeah, but it's NOS ,
Can't say for sure if the e-bay one would be the same or not. It Maybe someone here with a M38A1 could measure theirs for you, maybe a photo of theirs too.

 

I wrote the seller and he said:

You wouldn't be able to re-arch it to match the windshield I don't think. It'll fit dimensionally, but it will sit lower in the corners. The biggest issue would be without re-arching it I don't know how the top will really fit.
​

Can't help but wonder if I should maybe give it a try since it's pretty much either that or I get a crappy Omix reproduction frame POS.

 

Humm, hard to say at this point. Remove that glass and see what condition the metal lip under the seal is like next. Then remove the hinges and look inside the frame tube and see what it looks like in there. Then make that decision on the aftermarket frame.

 

Before you remove the arch from your current frame you could probably notch and re-arc the M38 part to match.

 

I got it all apart yesterday, and it all looks pretty good shape. I did lose the glass though as it had a bunch of big edge cracks and some dime sized ships in it from road rocks. As for the frame, the inner lip is fine, and inside where the chromed hinge posts go there's no rust. The bad part is the outer front arched support as pictured above. Salvaging this would no-brainer if the NOS one from KW was 50% of what they want for it.