Do I Need A Transmission Rebuild?

If I wanted an actual kit, I'd call Herm and see what he's got. Transmission kits | Herm The Overdrive Guy

Novak is probably sourcing their parts from one source and aren't up for searching around to get all the pieces. Given the situation, ask if they will send you their instructions. (JMO - the TSM should be enough). PartsMike is another good source, or you could call the Crown warehouse in Massachusetts and ask if their kits are available. The front main bearing is available from RockAuto (Jeep PN 941658) and Crown has the rear main bearing (Jeep 992289).

A Borg-Warner 3-speed is easy to rebuild - just put everything back the way it came out with new wearing parts. I would measure the roller bearings with an inexpensive micrometer and use the originals if they were not measurably worn. Prepare your work area, clean the outside of the transmission thoroughly, and document everything. It helps to label everything as it comes out, especially with direction front-to-back.

I would caution aga

 

The only thing I read in the symptoms described that represents a problem is the grinding while shifting from 2nd to 3rd, and the "will grind a little unless I hold the clutch in to give it some time."

Just because something is easy to rebuild doesn't mean it needs rebuilt.

Try tightening the clutch cable a little.

 

I understand Oldpappy's point - this is a really easy test. You could eliminate that the cable is too loose, and not releasing entirely. Clutch cables can fail too, and they could come apart and maybe give a deceiving feel to the pedal? Possible. I also understand ITLKSEZ's point that a draggiong clutch should affect the shifting of all gears in both directions. Your 2-3 shift around town is pretty close to speed matched already, unless you are really winding it out. Seems to me the least likely shift to clash.

Having to wait for the gears to spin down seems more like an internal problem, like a broken blocking ring or something.

But it's too easy a test to skip.

 

Oh, I'm sure they are. That's just the source that instantly popped up in my head, as I've used them before, and been quite happy with both their kits and their customer service.

 

Thanks to everyone for the input.

I’m going to adjust the cable today to see if that makes any difference.

How do you know when to stop adjusting? Is that just based on removing all the play from the pedal or should I adjust more than that?

Sorry for asking such a basic question but I’ve never done this before either.

Thanks again for your help and patience.

 

You don't want to adjust it too tightly, as you don't want the throwout bearing just riding against the clutch fingers all the time. You want a *little* slack in there, I don't honestly know what the spec is, but I'd guess 1/8" or so. I'm sure somebody with an FSM at hand, or more experience than I've got will chime in.

 

Brief hijack here: My '66 CJ6 has a Rube Goldberg rod/lever/bellcrank clutch release mechanism. Is that cable system original equipment on later models? Retrofittable? Aftermarket?

 

It is original equipment on that Jeep, but a similar set up can be retrofitted so you will sometimes see cable operated clutches on Jeeps that originally had the rod/lever/bellcrank setup which works fine for normal use, but can cause problems when the frame is being twisted while rock crawling.

 

Quick update ...

I adjusted the cable to where there is just barely a little play in the pedal. Maybe 1/4 inch at the pedal.

That made a big difference. Driving normal around town and shifting into 3rd is much smoother. However, if I’m in 2nd and winding the engine a bit before shifting into 3rd, I still experience the small grind. But even that is better.

Not sure I should adjust any further though.

Thanks again to all of you for the help!

 

The synchronizer may be worn, but try this: Delay the shift a bit, and rev the engine a little, just a pat on the accelerator, while the clutch is disengaged when shifting from 2nd to 3rd.

 

I’ll give that a try.

Thanks.

 

Or double clutch...like we had to do with non-synchro trannies. Actually, I'm not that old, but my grandfather, who taught me much about car mechanics, explained the process to me.

When ready to shift, depress the clutch. Shift to neutral, quickly let out clutch and press it back in. This will slow the input shaft. Shift up and let out clutch normally.

 

The resistance from the clutch assembly is way larger than the resistance from any springs on the linkage and such. You should be able to push for about an inch of travel at the pedal with one or two fingers, then it will get much harder as the throw out bearing encounters the clutch cover and actual clutch action starts. If you only have a quarter inch of play, that's not enough.

 

A couple pages from the service manual on clutch adjustment

 

x2,this is an old transmission that has been shift a million(?)times and a good chance of being abused along the way (not that anyone here has ever taken part in,just heard rumors ).......work with it,you'll get so you can keep it from grinding......maybe.....my '52 wagon syncros are worn,but if I don't get to daydreaming or showing off with that 161-6 I can keep her pretty happy

 

I think I may have adjusted it too tight based on this info?

Currently I have it to where there is only about 1/4 inch play when measured at the foot pedal inside the Jeep.

 

I can only push about 1/4 inch before I get the resistance.