67 Cj5 Resurrection

I figure I’ll start this thread just to document what I’m doing. It’s not really a build or a restoration, but I am trying to get my ‘67 back in business. I put all the information about the Jeep in my intro post, but here are the highlights:

• Bought it while I was in college (probably about 25 years ago)
• F134 replaced with an iron duke before I bought it (not a pro install).
• 2 or 3 years after college, the T90 gave it up.
• Sat for about 17 years.

It’s got a good bit of rust in the tub, but seems structurally solid. I pulled the plugs and put a little marvel mystery oil in and let it sit for a while. Turned it over manually and it spun freely. I drained the tank and put new gas in. After new plugs and a new battery, I sprayed a little starting fluid in the carb and tried it. It fired right up and ran until the starting fluid burned off. I tinkered a little more then pulled the carb. There was no way it was going to run, as the carb is really corroded inside. I was going to buy a rebuild kit, but I couldn’t figure out what it was. After 3 days of internet research and asking on the CJ page at JeepForum (figured folks here would be less experienced with the later engine), I identified the carb as a Holley 6510C from a 1.6 liter GM engine. I assume they used that because the throttle linkage is compatible. It ran really well, so I decided to stick with that instead of going to a Weber or the stock Rochester. Once I get the carb straight, I think it will run.

On to the transmission. I suspect I’ll have to totally rebuild it. I started trying to pull the T90 and D18 today, but got hung up. I disconnected the front driveshaft no problem, but the back is giving me trouble. Three of the four nuts on the flange came off fine, but the last stud is spinning in the housing. It’s pressed into the emergency brake drum. Is there any trick to getting that off or just cut it with an angle grinder and press in a new stud? That’s my plan as of now, but I’m out of cut-off wheels. I’ll throw some pics up shortly. This is a great forum and I’m looking forward to getting the Jeep back on the trail.

 

The stud locks against the inside of the brake drum. If you push it in it spins. Try moving the bolt out to lock against the drum. (Maybe)

 

Thanks, I did try to put outward pressure on the nut with a little pry bar, but it's still spinning. I might try to put some heat on it.

 

Heat is not going to make it stop spinning. The head of the bolt rests against an inside flange. Use a prybar to get the bolt head to rest up against that flange by prying on the nut while you turn it off. I find it remote that the flange is chipped or the entire head is rounded off.

If that doesn't work, pull the driveshaft and drop the transmission and transferase as an assembly. Then figure out your issue. If you apply heat your going to make a fire because the transfer case has leaked all its oil out over the years into the brake drum and shoes

 

It is a standard bolt (maybe fine thread) so just shawk it off if you cant get the nut off.

 

Done. Will try to get the trans and case out this weekend.

 

Did not think about this at all, so thanks. You’re right, there is a ton of oil on the back side of the backing plate.

 

Remember to take off the shifter(s) and don't forget to take off both the speedo cable and the brake cable.

 

Used my lunch break to pull the shifters off. A few observations. 1) the T90 internals don’t look nearly as bad as I expected. I stopped driving the Jeep because the trans locked up, so I expected bad things. I was able to move everything by hand and even shift the gears. So I’m wondering if the shifter itself just rusted or locked up. I still couldn’t get it to move much. I’ll clean it up and see if I can’t free up the forks.

2) I had to make a little bit of extra clearance to get the shaft out of the D18 to free the forks. There was what looked like a factory hole to access the end of the shaft, but it was misaligned. I’m guessing the trans and case shifted back a little when they did the engine swap (adapter for Chevy bellhousing maybe).

Anyhoo, ready to disconnect everything else and slide it back. I plan to use an ATV jack and pull it as a unit, so hopefully that will work well. I fabricated a fancy debris cover the trans in the meantime.

 

Quick question... Got the rebuilt carburetor back on and still no start. I pulled the fuel line from the carb and I’m Getting very little fuel. The lines are all clear and the fuel filter is new. I drained the tank a few weeks ago and the outlet is clear. All I’m left with is the pump, but I’ve read over and over again that the mechanical pumps pretty much never fail. Before I go in and pull that pump out, is there anything else I should look at?
Thanks!

 

What? I failed two in one week on the 2020 Earlycj5 Colorado trip.

 

Ha ha, I guess I’ll go ahead and pull the pump then. I swear, I’ve seen at least 5 posts about how reliable the old mechanical pumps are.

 

Maybe before they were made in China and ethanol snuck into our gasoline.

 

Got the new pump on. Pulled the tank to check it and it was nasty. Went ahead and ordered a new tank and sending unit. Also started looking at the brakes. I put new wheel cylinders on about 15 years ago, but probably need to just replace everything at this point.

 

Don’t mind me... just documenting what I did so I don’t forget. Replaced the tank and fuel lines up to the filter. I also hit the tub under the tank with POR15 just for good measure. Once I got the new tank and fuel lines in, the old Iron Duke fired up and runs pretty well. It’s idling high, although the idle is adjusted down to the lower mechanical limit of the linkage, so will have to play with air/fuel I suppose. The electric choke is new so that should be working.