Front Brakes Distribution Block

I have the brake distribution block on the left inner front side of the frame. This is supposed to distribute the brake lines from the MC to both front wheels. The issue I have is that my block has 4 ports, one on each side. I thought one was to receive the fluid from the MC and two ports to distribute, one for each wheel. What is the 4th one for?

 

IIRC, the 4-port units were for the single-reservoir MCs. One inlet, two fronts, and one to the rear.

 

Yep large line is master cyl then the two front and rear are small. If you swapped to dual reservoir master cyl I would just plug the extra port.

 

And I thought I was going crazy!
Thanks!

 

Not sure what else you have but i put in a brake light switch as the PO must have removed them when he/she tried to upgrade to 11in drums.

 

After seeing post after post of brake light switch failure I think I'm going the route of a mechanical switch. I want to try the motorcycle pull-style since my pedals are through the floor. Shouldn't be that difficult.

 

Post up pics of the switch when you fab it up. I want to do a similar thing.

 

Will do!

 

I notice in the manual that in later Jeeps they have two diaphragm brake light switches, so both would have to fail before you loose brake lights. You could use the fourth port to add a switch. Of course, one would want to check both switches every once in a while to make sure one hadn't failed. That said, my great-grandfather kludged a mechanical second switch on my CJ (original pedal) Sadly I didn't pay attention to exactly where it was when I took it apart so can't advise on how to install one. I'll let you know if I get it figured out.

 

Thanks, teletech!

 

OK, so I found the floor panel with the bracket and the switch that was used. The switch is a NC (normally closed) type.
Sorry I don't have a picture of it installed, but it's certainly a simple setup.
The switch fits a 1/2" hole and is 3" long from contact button to the back of the terminals, but I don't see a part number.

At the moment I'm using a spare port to just run two pressure switches in parallel but I might reinstall this since it's nice to be able to show brake lights before even applying enough pedal to bring the brake fluid to pressure.

 

Thanks! You are correct. It supposed to be NC since its resting position is depressed against the pedal and as soon as you start braking it separates from the pedal and closes the circuit, lighting up the brake lights. I think any automotive brake switch would work The bracket is a great idea!

 

Good place for a crappy brake light switch.

 

Why?

 

I assume that he is stating that a "better" way is to install the brake line pressure switch as it is a vast improvement, yet basic, technology?...but what do i know..

 

I think Scott's being a bit sarcastic. He's saying that because the pressure switches are crappy. They are highly prone to failure and there are many threads on the forum about it. Like this one: http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/hydraulic-brake-light-switch-failure-again.135486/.

Many people have switched to home-brew mechanical switches because the hydraulic ones are so unreliable.

 

Looks like Timgr knows where the switch that was in my CJ added bracket came from... the '76 CJ5 switch listed in another thread looks to be a dead ringer for the switch I had in my CJ.

More Information for WVE 1S5238
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?attachments/upload_2019-9-27_11-54-57-png.51756/

 

I put Dot 5, silicon brake fluid in my Jeep, had three brake light switches fail before I got one from Ron Frances for silicon brake fluid, all good now. Just saying. Good Luck

 

That was it. Sarcasm is never easy in writing.
My pressure switch story - Recently on the Colorado trip none of the old CJs showed brake lights while riding their brakes downhill. When they stepped on the brakes hard to stop all worked.

 

From what I've been reading, the failures are not on the hydraulic side but on the electric side, where the contacts arc and overheat making them fail to establish a closed circuit once actuated. But i have been wrong before...