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Seabee M38A1 Build

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by tymbom, Mar 30, 2014.

  1. May 6, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
    Messages:
    814
    [​IMG]

    Building fuel lines... I'm using Earl's Performance Vapor Lock fuel line and fittings. The fittings are really nice, the end swivels too. The hose is EFI rated to 225psi and cuts nice. I used some Milwaukee shop shears to cut it. A little squirt of WD40 on the barb of the fitting and it slides right on. I also decided to use the clamps that get crimped on... Earl's has a set of pliers they sell as well.

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    This will get bolted to the firewall and covered in heat shield...

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    After my last post I hurt my shoulder... I've been forced to stay out of the shop and it's killing me... Today was the first day in about a week and a half that it's been good enough to do any work... And that's about as far as I got when things went wrong. In the above picture, the line on the right in the main feed line, the other is the return line. I meant to put the fuel filter in that line. Grrrrrrr... Also, where the lines bend up towards the bottom of the tub, they're trying to kink.

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    Which leads to this picture... The remaining piece of fuel line was about 4 inches too short, about the length of the fuel filter. So I couldn't run the return line back to the tank... I added the fitting after the picture was taken... so I had to order more fuel line, a couple 90 degree fittings, and some more clamps... then it should be done. Once the submersible fuel line gets here I can set up the in tank pump.
     
  2. May 6, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
    Messages:
    814
    [​IMG]

    Other goodies showed up as well...

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    This balancer is a smaller diameter than the original one. The distance between the balancer and the hump on the front differential has always bugged me. I've moved the engine as far back and as high as I could, the axle is moved forward, so hopefully the smaller diameter of the new balancer will be worth it. I had the old one off anyway and the new one was 150 bux, so I figured it was worth it... now that my shoulder is feeling better, I'm hoping I can keep moving forward. Thanks for checking it out, Laters.
     
    Muzikp, ITLKSEZ and Fireball like this.
  3. May 10, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
    Messages:
    814
    [​IMG]

    Fittings and hoses arrived the other day.

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    The 90° fittings eliminated the kink.

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    And I put the fuel filter inline as well. One of the ends could be just a tad shorter so the lines would stay parallel, but for now it's fine.

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    Fuel pickup is plumbed as well. The pump is the replacement pump for a 1990 K1500. 5.7l truck. If I need a replacement down the road it should be easy to source a new one. The pump is wrapped in some foam and the lightly hose clamped to the channel that drops into the tank. On the bottom of the pump is the matching pickup sock.

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    It all fits in the tank with the sock just resting on the bottom of the tank. The return line is about 20 inches long. I left it long thinking that it would be better than dumping the return fuel right onto the pickup. I didn't know if that would cause any troubles. I need to solder some longer wires to the plug for the pump, add a grommet, then weld up the unused holes next. I guess I need to start getting serious about the wiring now... Thanks for checking it out. Laters
     
    fhoehle, dozerjim, Muzikp and 4 others like this.
  4. Aug 6, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
    Messages:
    814
    [​IMG]

    I'm still here! I've been making progress on wiring and finishing stuff up for the first start...

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    The fuel system is finished...

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    After watching the dog and my daughter climb in and out of the driver's seat a few times I decided to build a guard over the fuel pump sender...

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    Just a simple cover eases my mind...

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    All smiles... Hopefully she still fits in the back seat...

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    Brake proportioning valve mounted since it has the brake light switch...

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    I mounted all the relays for the lights on a bracket under the battery.

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    And the battery is held down and in a good spot. The larger red wire runs to a 100 amp breaker on the firewall and then to a buss bar on the other side of the battery on the firewall. I was noticing there was alot of wires that needed to go to the positive post of the battery, so I decided to use the buss bar to clean things up.

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    Battery cables are built and hooked up, I welded a 3/8ths bolt to the chassis for the ground, and added a ground strap to the body. I hooked up the battery cables and closed the breaker, no smoke came out...

    As it sits now, all the wiring is done on the motor. I just need to get the radiator hooked up, plug some fittings on the water pump, install the harmonic balancer, alternator, water pump, a belt and fluids, and it should be ready to try and start it up for the first time...
     
    fhoehle, Dne007, Snoops and 5 others like this.
  5. Aug 6, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
    Messages:
    814
    I forgot something... One of the cool little things about the Unimog I had was the turn signal switch...

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    I had to have one for this too... The cool thing is it handles the turn signals, headlight high and low beam, and the horn button is on the end of the stalk. You push the end in towards the steering column to honk the horn... Since my steering wheel is removable it works perfectly for my application...

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    Just have to sort out the wiring... I found a wiring diagram and printed it out... I traced the wires and used colored pencils to help make sense of everything... Hopefully I have it all sorted out...

    Thanks for checking it out! Laters
     
    fhoehle, 47v6, ojgrsoi and 8 others like this.
  6. Aug 6, 2020
    Alan28

    Alan28 Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Châtillon en...
    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2012
    Messages:
    2,327
    This is professional work and this is not a "standard" Jeep now. Did you insure it at its true value ?
    There is a lot of money involved, but you must wait until ready to be legally on the road.
    Or I suppose. I don't know your local regulations.
     
    tymbom likes this.
  7. Aug 6, 2020
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2014
    Messages:
    7,540
    Nice clean work. (y)
     
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  8. Aug 7, 2020
    BadGoat

    BadGoat How High Can You Climb?

    Northern Virginia
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2017
    Messages:
    326
    Very Nice!
    I like that multi function turn signal.

    Mike
     
    tymbom likes this.
  9. Aug 7, 2020
    Lockman

    Lockman OK.....Now I Get It . 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Silver Hill,...
    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2018
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    2,698
    Me Too...... Great detail work on your electrical work !
     
    tymbom likes this.
  10. Aug 8, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
    Messages:
    814
    Thanks guys... I still have a couple wires to add to the front harness for the turn signals, then I'll add some Weatherpack plugs and cover it all up with the Painless Wiring Power Braid. I'm not the best at wiring, so I just take my time and try to plan everything out.
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  11. Aug 22, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
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    So this happened the other day...




    It's not running quite right yet... At the end of the video the engine dies on its own. I'm able to get it to idle and rev up nicely, but the MAP sensor vacuum line has to be unplugged... So the throttle body and adapter is pulled off and new gaskets are ready to see if I had a vacuum leak... It's super exciting to finally hear it run after seven and a half years...
     
    dozerjim, 73 cj5, Lilbuff63 and 6 others like this.
  12. Aug 22, 2020
    Dne007

    Dne007 Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    Cypress, Tx
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    That's so cool (y)(y)!!!!!
     
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  13. Aug 23, 2020
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
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    Really looks great!
     
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  14. Aug 23, 2020
    baldjosh

    baldjosh Member

    pacific north west
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    Oct 24, 2017
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    NICE!!!...how in the heck are you revving the engine:confused:
     
  15. Aug 23, 2020
    Lilbuff63

    Lilbuff63 Member 2022 Sponsor

    Sonoma County Ca
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2014
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    Awesome!!! Always a good feeling firing it up for the first time!
     
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  16. Aug 23, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
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    Lol... The idle isn't right... It surges up and down then poops out...
     
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  17. Sep 1, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
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    814


    So I checked everything that I could trying to get this thing running right. My friend Roy is super helpful. He used to run his own shop, so he has the talent and the tools. He walked me through everything we did and explained everything. The only way we could get the engine to idle correctly was to have the vacuum disconnected from the MAP sensor... We verified everything was as it should be. I called Affordable Fuel Injection and talked to Norm about my problem... Turns out in order to make the TBI run the 400, they built it with a 454 sized Throttle body, and 4.3 V6 injectors, at a higher pressure, around 30 psi. The TBI system usually runs around 15 psi. So when I built the fuel pick up, I used a 350 fuel pump that only put out 15psi. By disconnecting the vacuum from the MAP sensor, we fooled the computer into thinking the engine was under a load, allowing full flow of fuel through the regulator. So I needed a pump that flowed more pressure.

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    I found a fuel pump from a 1996 K3500 454 truck that put out 85 psi. The swap was simple enough since the two pumps were identical from the outside. Here the new pump is in the foreground... It was a simple plug and play upgrade...

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    Unfortunately the fuel pickup gasket doesn't like new fuel...

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    New one is easy enough... The most irritating thing about this fuel pickup is that it's not clockable... It looks like 12 holes spaced evenly, but it's not. All back together and some tinkering with the Idle Air Control, it runs much better.

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    Put the gauges in the panel and hooked up the oil pressure and water temperature. Once the engine was running right I let it idle for about 20 minutes. It came up to 180 temp and stayed there. Now I can move forward and finish wiring lights and turn signals, along finishing the axles and brakes... Thanks for checking it out, laters
     
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  18. Sep 3, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
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    814
    [​IMG]

    Chaaarrge!!! In Bugs Bunny voice...

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    I managed to bumble my way through wiring the alternator to charge the battery... The alternator also is back feeding into the harness and keeps the engine running, which led to an impromptu test of the circuit breaker. The most tedious part is routing the wires and making it look nice. Once I have driven around in the field a bit I plan to cover all the wires with the braided stuff I've used so far.
     
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  19. Sep 3, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
    Messages:
    814
    [​IMG]

    Another funny little thing... The first steering box I used when I was setting up the suspension and steering was a Saginaw out of a Astro van... Identical to a regular jeep steering box, but it had backwards rotation on the pitman arm. So I got a steering box from a full-size Chevy Impala, I think it was a 1969. Everything is the same, 4 bolt mount, but the internals are bigger and the input shaft is bigger. So I needed a different U joint to connect it all up. The new one is just a touch shorter... Of course all my stuff was trimmed to fit and is now too short... Also, I forgot to mention the reason the Alternator is back feeding the wire harness is because I haven't added the diode that only allows the current to flow one way...
     
    ojgrsoi likes this.
  20. Sep 5, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
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    814
    [​IMG]

    Diode is installed in the harness... The key shuts off the engine again.

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    The rear disc brake parts have been accumulating... The rotor hats could only be found with smaller 5 lug bolt patterns prefilled, so I had to use blank ones and drill my own holes. I thought it was going to be a job for the machine shop, but I figured out I could manage.

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    The drive flange has an outside diameter of 3.000 inches. The rotor hats is designed to slip over the hub and studs, so the hat has a diameter of 3.060.

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    I dabbed some anti-seize on the very tips of the studs, then slid the hat on the snout of the drive flange backwards. I center punched and drilled the holes out to 9/16ths since I have 1/2in studs.

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    Each hat slid right on with a perfect fit...
    Much better than going down to the machine shop and waiting a couple weeks.
     
    ojgrsoi, locrwln, blalp! and 4 others like this.
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