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Cross-member Skid Plate

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by FinoCJ, Jul 17, 2020.

  1. Jul 21, 2020
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,466
    I use a mix of 1/8 and 3/16 along with some tube for structure on the skid plates I build. The structure of the tube (Round or Square) adds a lot of strength while not being as 'bad' as just going to thicker plate for weight. I will say that in some cases it's best to make the plate 'take the hit' and bend a little, but in a controlled way so other things don't break. I've been able to slide off rocks with a bent plate where I've gotten hung solid with a ridged one (and visa versa, but more with the solid)... most of these were on extreme trails like Holy Cross where I find a bigger need for the plates.

    IMOP - the long slider style Duffer uses are the best over all and AL is the better way with that if possible (y) - I'm not good enough with AL yet to get there, so will stay with the steel for now.
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  2. Jul 21, 2020
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2003
    Messages:
    3,323
    Mine is 3/16 and has held up very well to the abuse. The only thing I would do different is either counter sink the bolts or use round heads.
     
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  3. Jul 22, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,593
    I think bending and surviving pretty much describes my experience to date...
    My thought (correct me if I am wrong) is to leave the existing cross-member with rubber isolator mount to the T14/D18, and then just add this skid plate under the cross-member (like the OEM set-up), but extend it to the side rails for additional strength - it should not cause any issue with limiting the drivetrain flex. I think your reference was with respect to extending forward and connecting with the oil pan skid? I'd like to beef up my oil pan with a skid, but that isn't happening right now...maybe the next time I have to drop the pan I can figure out welding on some protection on the bottom there (and beat out the huge dent as well).
    I like that... (y)....would potentially use that on the wagon cross-member as there is not skid there at all. My main thought/concern would be only mounting the skid to the cross-member as opposed to mounting the skid to the frame rail as well - would add a few more solid mounts to the frame than just the 4 cross-member mounts?....this is great food for thought for me...I've got some other priorities first, but going to get this done this fall. Fortunately, none of the San juan trails for the upcoming ecj5 run are going to require much protection (unless the driver decides to do something stupid....hmmm)
     
  4. Jul 23, 2020
    BadGoat

    BadGoat How High Can You Climb?

    Northern Virginia
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2017
    Messages:
    326
    A simple oil pan skid is to take a piece of heavy gauge sheet steel, cut it about 2-3 inches longer and wider then the bottom of your oil pan, bend the ends up with a hammer so it’s a snug fit, then RTV it to the bottom of the oil pan. This will help protect the pan from punctures and it’s amazing how strong a bond the RTV will provide.

    Depending on the shape, you could also use a spare oil pan with the flanges cut off.

    And don’t forget to leave a hole for the drain plug.

    Mike
     
    Hellion likes this.
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