Crate Engines (sbc)

Vortec block and heads with 87-95 tbi setup or better yet edelbrock pro flo 4 is personally what I'd look into. Parts are cheap and readily available still.
My friend had a modified 350 gm goodwrench crate engine in his old dirt drag truck until he could afford to build something else and it held up fine.

 

JEGS will have the best price on GM crate engines, they buy in large volume. They are cheaper than the dealers, even if you work there. They also carry the full factory warranty. Long block is a better option, all the parts are matched by people smarter than us. The 300hp option is a very nice power plant, but will break parts. That loose nut behind the wheel thing. The torque increase from 283 to 350 will be impressive. In my opinion, I prefer reliability over horse power. Good luck, Ron

 

Being a retired Government Fleet manager I have purchased engines for many many police cars. The GM-Ford crate motors from the dealer were reliable and had a consistent quality. All other rebuilders....Jasper and local were hit and miss.

I found it was a you get what you pay for type of thing...

Richard

 

I have a coworker who put two of the GM Performance Parts turn key engines in two of his model A Fords about 8 or so years ago. He has had good luck with them. Drop-in and go.

 

NOT Jasper!

 

I know a guy who had an atk dressed 302. The distributor was “bad out of the box” (knowing who was working on the truck they probably broke it). The company took the engine back and let him keep the Holley carburetor. I don’t recall what was wrong with the engine but it had to do with improper break in(iirc wiped cam lobes).

 

What about an EcoBoost swap? They have good power in a smaller package. I have a 2016 F150 with a 3.5 and am very happy with it.

 

You are comparing prices of a NEW engine to a REMAN. Apples and oranges. There are parts you won't be able to reuse. I went with rebuilding a core engine I had, but I am a professional mechanic so I only had parts and machine work. I know you're not I Ohio, but the last 350 I built was right at $1600 machining and parts. Ron

 

Ok, a lot of questions and info to follow.
The 7353 engine has pre 86 heads(good for what you want)
It doesn't appear to have tall valve covers
Yes your spread bore intake will fit, with your distributor
q-jet condition????
If your carb isn't up to the job, I recommend a JET PERFORMANCE Q-jet from jegs. Pricey but all the work is done.
More to follow, Ron

 

The 283 and the 350 are physically the same size
the exhaust manifolds will work, will the flow enough???
motor mounts will be the same, you shouldn't need to move anything
You will need a 1 piece rear main seal flywheel

PLEASE keep in mind this information is from memory, I can direct you towards the rite part if changes occur.
I've done a lot of these swaps.
I'll help anyway I can. Ron

 

If you want to mess with people, If the valve cover bolts are straight across from each other on the 283, then you can swap valve covers with the 350.

If you're not happy where it's located, Now would be the time to fix what you don't like.

As far as accessories go, JUNK Yard. Find an old chevy with a sbc and strip the front of the engine.

NAPA lists an flex plate for $28, flywheel for $85.

Does your fuel pump have a return fitting? You can add a return line to help keep your fuel temps down.

 

Check Summit Racing also.

 

Yes, but keep in mind all the accessory mounts have to be compatible with either the short or long water pump you are using. If going the GM crate engine, I would be looking for a 96-2000 stand alone Vortex 5.7 truck engine. They definitely get the best mileage of the stock Gen I small blocks and IME, pretty much maintenance free to at least 200k. These would also be using the one piece rear seal (everything after 86 was one piece). The dip stick also went to the right side at that time. If you go with a serpentine belt, make sure you get the complete accessory drive system off the same engine. Those belts are VERY sensitive to alignment.